JST Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 apart from Galvanising it Any ideas what is the best paint to use on the rear cross member to stop it rusting and lasts more than 12mths before it has to be recoated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Halfords matt black enamel it has lasted a long time on mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dottythe90 Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Used Black Hammerite on mine (but it only had a bit of surface rust, took it back to bare shiny metal in those areas) - so far so good (9 months), except where I hit it accidentally with the power washer. STEVE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Reedy Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 Urgh no, ordinary black enamel doesn't work. You need some POR15 from Frost Auto Restoration in Rochdale. This amazing paint is based on super glue technology and only goes off in the presence of moisture, so it just loves rust. It's not cheap but it works, just paint it on and then give it a good coating of Waxolyle diluted with kerosine. I did my chassis two years ago and there's no rust despite two salty winters of daily driving. One point - do heed the warning on the tin not to re-close it after opening, because any paint on the rim will set solid in atmospheric moisture and you'll have to destroy the lid to get it off next time, as I found to my cost! Find a plastic or glass container for any unused paint. I think the web address is www.frost.co.uk or .com, Google will find it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 It's http://www.frost.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted August 8, 2005 Author Share Posted August 8, 2005 yep have tried the POR-15 with thier Chassis black paint on top and that doesnt seem to last either, its managed about 2yrs on mine and rust is coming through now. i was thinking of undercoating with POR15 then hammerite the top.(after testing the two dont react with each other) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spectric Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Hi all The rear x member is designed to rust, landrover just got it so wrong. It's strength is in the design not the material. I have cured mine and it will never rot in my lifetime. Solution is : Take one paddys moped and cut old x member off clean about 3 inches in along both chassis rails and discard. Make a new one from 5 inch u channel which has a wall thickness of 6 mm but make it so that it goes round the rear quarters to offer them good protection. You will need to trim the bottom of the sides of your panels. Prepare the chassis by fitting reinforcing plates to each side of both chassis rails, fitting closure panels on the open chassis ends and fitting 2 spacers between the sides of each rail to prevent crushing when you bolt the new x member on. You will also require plates welded to the top of your new x member to which to fix the rear tub. I will post some pictures when I find out how to on this new forum. Use bumper irons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 I was told if you put cling film over the lid on POR15, you can reopen it. I put the cling film actually on the surface of the paint and let the ends stick out through the lid. It works for me up to a point, but the paint does goes off after a while anyway, but at least its not immediate. I'd also recommend buying 2 colours and using them for alternate coats then you can see if you've missed a bit. Black on black is hard to see where you've been, and I believe you need at least 3 coats of solvent based paint to be sure that pinholes don't align. I think also you're supposed to recoat within a certain time. I am investigating the 2-pack epoxy from www.rust.co.uk which I think is Jotan Jotamastic smart pack repackaged, but all the Jotan stuff looks very good. If you use POR15 make sure you use gloves and do get the thinners as well to get it off your face - otherwise it has to wear off! Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 5, 2009 Share Posted March 5, 2009 Cackshifter How did you get on with the 2 pack epoxy? Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 How did I cure my rear crossmember's rust? with a bit of 160x80x5mm box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Without taking the body off, how do you get at to rustproof the top of the x member? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 I use this Brilliant Coat rusty bits in this stuff neat, then add about 10% to what ever paint you put on as a top coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howard14 Posted March 7, 2009 Share Posted March 7, 2009 Without taking the body off, how do you get at to rustproof the top of the x member?Martin Hi Martin. It's fairly straight forward to get to the top of the rear cross-member. I think you can do it without even getting underneath. A good(ish) Trolly jack, two (or better) four axle stands, a modest compressor, a long blow gun, a good light, a sandvick scraper or two, a Machine Mart paraffin gun (For thinned down Waxoil), a baked beans tin, with a 20mm paint brush, for waxoil daubing, and the ability to crawl around under your Landy full of enthusiasm to kill rust werever you find it, will take you a long way. Hope that helps. Howard. Born again Waxoilist. 2x300TdiDef. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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