Stellaghost Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Sid's 200 tdi is smoking, looks like blueish smoke and smells like burnt oil So what I know up to now.. Intercooler has no oil present, have also removed inlet and outlet pipe from turbo, no oil or smoke No sign of any crankcase pressure what so ever, have not done a compression test as yet because I need to find an adaptor for the glow plug threads At Summer Sisters Sid got seriously over heated, so I'm thinking valve seals or head gasket Thoughts would be appreciated please @Bowie69 and @Ed Poore yes I know I'm fitting a 1uz but it would be nice for this engine to be right before I remove it....lol Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Pull it and put it on a stand, you'd have much better access to everything then. 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 10 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Pull it and put it on a stand, you'd have much better access to everything then. 😁 Hmmmm I think you are biased, your more desperate than I am to get the 200 out........lol Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Sounds like a textbook, head warp, but if it overheated could be numerous reasons depending on the general health of the engine prior to overheat. You wont know until you go a bit deeper i.e. remove head etc. you could try pulling the injectors or the glow plugs, might give you an indication of a wet cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 I've overheated several 200tdis with no ill effects bar the occasional head gasket, with the exception of one which I added cold water to and cracked the head. Even then it took another 1000miles to show up. Given you don't have crank case pressure and a clear inlet, I'd say head gasket. Probably gone between oil way and no 2 or 3. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted September 4 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 4 8 minutes ago, miketomcat said: I've overheated several 200tdis with no ill effects bar the occasional head gasket, with the exception of one which I added cold water to and cracked the head. Even then it took another 1000miles to show up. Given you don't have crank case pressure and a clear inlet, I'd say head gasket. Probably gone between oil way and no 2 or 3. Mike Well.....I'm not going to argue with you...you've changed more 200tdi head gaskets than any 20 other people combined on this forum......lol Regards Stephen 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 I have cracked a head on a 200 from overheating but it ran very badly after that. Given the oil I would suspect valve stem seals. Not a huge deal to pull the head off in any case and see if something is obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 You've got the big luxury of not relying on Sid as a daily driver so I wouldn't bother messing about with various tests etc., - just start stripping it down to take a proper look. The only thing I can think of that's possibly worth doing is a compression test before you do that but it'll either say everything is fine (which it isn't) or you'll need to strip it down anyway to find out the cause. I do have a generic diesel compression tester here (which I think has the right adapter but I never actually ended up using it so would need to double check) which I'm happy to post up to you if you wanted to try it. Speaking more from 300Tdi experience but a head gasket change can and I have done it inside 30 minutes when pushed and didn't care about making a mess on the workshop floor. Given how quick and straightforward it is I wouldn't bother faffing about and just take the head off to inspect the cylinders and the head itself. Give it a good clean, check the head gasket and whilst you're there have a look at the bores in the block. I can pretty much guarantee you'll find the issue quicker than if you spent the time testing compression etc. I think the last head-gasket I got for the 300Tdi about a year ago was <£15 for an Elring so a bit of a no-brainer. You've certainly got the skills and equipment to check the head and block for flatness. The only downside of doing this is you'll find lots of things that might be an issue and you'll want to sort them out which means you'll pull the engine and at that point... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 My opinion would be it's just as likely to be a valve guide or gummed piston ring. Get it up to temp, carefully open the expansion coolant reservoir to release any pressure, put the cap back on and rev it flat out for 10-15 seconds and then pull the cap again. If no great pressure has built up in that time and it's not chuffing out the rocker cover I would further suspect valve guides, piston rings or even a worn turbo. just wind the pump up and cover the blue smoke with black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 don't overlook the valve guide's , the block i did for the Eurover project had al the valve guide's seriously worn .... and you won't fix that with new valve seals ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 Head off, not seeing much with regards to the gasket Tiny bit of polishing on no4 bore, piston tops very clean, so I will be checking valves tomorrow Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Bowie69 Posted September 4 Popular Post Share Posted September 4 Looks totally knackered to me, time to slot in a replacement. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 18 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Looks totally knackered to me, time to slot in a replacement. Your sooooooooo helpfull......... Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason110 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 You’ve got a spare engine there and the heads decent. It was the bottom end that was knocking. Could chuck it on if the valve stem seals are worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 27 minutes ago, jason110 said: You’ve got a spare engine there and the heads decent. It was the bottom end that was knocking. Could chuck it on if the valve stem seals are worn. Already in the thought process... Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 The block looks dark between the oilway and no4, got any pics of the gasket? On the whole that looks to be in reasonable condition. For the cost and the fact you don't need it daily I'd be tempted to put a head gasket on and try it. Some thin oil down the bores to see if one drains quicker could be worth a try. In my experience because the inlet and exhaust side are positive pressure any issues with the valve tend to show in the rocker box. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 So a bit more info and an interesting find, oil appears to be weeping from the valves No3 cylinder exhaust port is very wet The interesting bit is this The pin connecting these has snapped/corroded so the gate has just been flapping about for god knows how long, probably not helped on the power side of life What a handy tool, first time I've used it in anger something else i noticed head is slightly warped, i can get a 6 thou feeler gauge under a straight edge, so I will probably skim the head whilst it's off Head set with elring gasket coming next week so will concentrate on getting the head cleaned up Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 Are the valves sealing still? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 6 Author Share Posted September 6 Head set arrived, was going to skim head today but the fly cutter I needed is the one I modified to make @Gazzar fairlead, so rather than re-convert it back, I'm going to make a new one to fit in the Bridgeport Still got valves to grind in, valve guides look good so no worries there Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Stellaghost Posted September 7 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 7 Hmmmm, jokers at work also... regards Stephen 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 Those valves should certainly seal better than that. Hopefully they’ll seal up after a decoke. Could you do me a favour if you open up the bottom end and take a photo of the dipstick markings and where they fall in relation to the sump flange or the bottom edge of the block? Mine had a buggered dipstick when I got it, and modifying the new dipstick to fit around the retrofit Defender manifolds may have made it very inaccurate. Since mine had a rebore and new pistons and has subsequently had the head totally rebuilt and a turbo rebuild then a new turbo, but still burns the same amount of oil on the overrun and idle. It think the reborn was squiffy, but it could just be that the dipstick is reading incorrectly and it’s overfilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 14 minutes ago, Snagger said: Those valves should certainly seal better than that. Hopefully they’ll seal up after a decoke. Could you do me a favour if you open up the bottom end and take a photo of the dipstick markings and where they fall in relation to the sump flange or the bottom edge of the block? Mine had a buggered dipstick when I got it, and modifying the new dipstick to fit around the retrofit Defender manifolds may have made it very inaccurate. Since mine had a rebore and new pistons and has subsequently had the head totally rebuilt and a turbo rebuild then a new turbo, but still burns the same amount of oil on the overrun and idle. It think the reborn was squiffy, but it could just be that the dipstick is reading incorrectly and it’s overfilled. No plans to drop the bottom yet, but if I do I will take photos Regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 Thanks. Hopefully you’ll be sorted without going into the bottom. 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 I saw my head being checked for valve seating. They just held a sucker against it, pulled a trigger and watched a vacuum gauge. It took a second for each one. I don’t know the vacuum source they had but perhaps there are gauges that use airflow across an orifice to create it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 I probably missed it but if you're swapping the engine, why spend time on this one? That sounds harsh, isn't meant to. Genuinely interested in your plans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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