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My Defender 110 td5 2003 stops when it wants to.


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I have a 2003 defender110 td5

it starts first time ,drive for 1/2 mile starts spluttering and cuts out, sit for 3 mins starts up drive 1/2 mile cuts out again,

it have fuel in tank,new fuel pump,new fuel filters, new ignition barrel,new starter relay, and fuel relay.

would oil in my ecu cause this problem  ??

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Did you fit a VDO pump?

Checked air bleed valve and filter in the fuel filter head?

Possible the filter head has corrosion/pinholes?

Can you hear air in the system before it restarts?

Any signs of a fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the engine?

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hiya 

yes vdo pump

fitted new fuel filter and breather pipe

Fitting new ignition barrel

Fitted new starter relay (burnt old one out)

fitted new fuel pump relay

 

 

just cleaning out ECU and fitting new injector bar.

If this does not resolve it I will change the fuel pressure regulator.

 

Any more advice most welcome .I thank you

 

 

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Good morning,

My landy keeps cutting out after so far but normally7 on the hill to my house.

I have checked pump and changed filters

checked filter head for leaks ,nil

changed Fuel pressure regulator, cleaned out ecu and connectors.

installed new injector bar

installed new ignition,

maintenance carried on waste gate valve operates as it should,

It still stops on hill ,some one has mentioned a loose wire behind dash board any ideas please??????

 

Dying a slow death here

 

Gil Rae

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On 9/19/2024 at 8:26 PM, Eightpot said:

Did you fit a VDO pump?

Checked air bleed valve and filter in the fuel filter head?

Possible the filter head has corrosion/pinholes?

Can you hear air in the system before it restarts?

Any signs of a fuel leak at the fuel pressure regulator at the rear of the engine?

I have checked all and all ok 

 

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It sounds more like a fuel issue than an electrical issue.

Conking out going uphill tends to suggest the engine isn't being supplied with the quantity of fuel it needs to drag a car uphill.

Things that might reduce fuel flow are - faulty fuel regulator, block in a fuel sender or return pipe, blocked air bleed/non return valve on filter head (have you removed the screw on fittings from filter head and taken out the binternal valves?), duff fuel pump, blocked fuel pump filter,  air getting into system. 

Could potentially be a bunch of other random things which you can't guess at - a nanocom and fuel line pressure gauge would help a lot to diagnose where the issue is.

 

 

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Have you tried driving (in dry conditions) with the fuel tank cap off?  It could be the breather in the cap is blocked.  Check for pinched fuel lines, too.

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Thank you all for your reply to my ever going problem

It still does not like going up hills 

starts first time runs sweet as a nut until the dreaded hill 

changed just about evry thing you can think of and all the suggestions put forward.

 

lost in space!!!!!!!!!

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Could still possibly be a wiring fault. Td5 is pretty resilient but it doesn't like dodgy crank position signals - might be worth having it idling and giving all of the engine loom wiring a good wiggle, working your way from the ECU forwards. Crank position sensor wiring will be at the back of the engine.

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Have you don't your injector seals? This sounds similar to when mine went. I suspect the copper washers were leaking and air gets into the fuel system.  It stalls, you purge, lots of gurgling later it starts again until the next time. 

 

Genuine only on these if you do them. 

Edited by reb78
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Have you got access to another ecu you can try? 

I have one ecu here, that runs just fine but every now and then going DOWNHILL/enginebreaking it switches the engine off and refuses to restart for a couple of minutes. After that everything is normal until next time it happens...? All cured by another ecu so I can only imagine what is happening inside the Odd one, maybe the little gremlin who makes it all work is getting old 🤔🙂

/mads

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Good afternoon 

Well my problem still exists,

Up hill and under tourke it starts spluttering then cuts out.

I have spent 3 days checking all earths, no chaffing with engine running 

I have now come to the conclusion it must be my injector seals sucking air into the system.

I have new fuel pump, fuel filters and fuel lines, fuel reg valve, injector bar,Ignition barrel,

clean fuel and a tank full,refurbed waste gate valve, 

new starter relay, new fuel relay.

Am i going in the right direction ???, 

Your responses have helped me a great deal I thank you in advance.

I am left with a box of matches haha

Gil Rae

IMG_6447.JPG

Edited by gilrae58
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On 10/1/2024 at 8:15 PM, Eightpot said:

It sounds more like a fuel issue than an electrical issue.

Conking out going uphill tends to suggest the engine isn't being supplied with the quantity of fuel it needs to drag a car uphill.

Things that might reduce fuel flow are - faulty fuel regulator, block in a fuel sender or return pipe, blocked air bleed/non return valve on filter head (have you removed the screw on fittings from filter head and taken out the binternal valves?), duff fuel pump, blocked fuel pump filter,  air getting into system. 

Could potentially be a bunch of other random things which you can't guess at - a nanocom and fuel line pressure gauge would help a lot to diagnose where the issue is.

 

 

Im thinking injector seals now ?

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On 10/8/2024 at 9:28 PM, Hazza said:

Could still possibly be a wiring fault. Td5 is pretty resilient but it doesn't like dodgy crank position signals - might be worth having it idling and giving all of the engine loom wiring a good wiggle, working your way from the ECU forwards. Crank position sensor wiring will be at the back of the engine.

ran engine for twenty minits tugging and pulling on all cables wires earths nothing amiss

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Faulty injector seals will tend to cause difficult starting and fuel in engine oil.  It may or may not help, for the couple of quid it costs for seals it's worth a punt, but as you say it starts first time, it wouldn't be my first thought. 

Proper diagnosis by measuring is the fastest way through a problem like this rather than keep buying new parts. A nanocom and plug in fuel pressure gauge will tell you what's going on and at least rule out a whole bunch of stuff that is working fine. It also can't be discounted that any of the new bits you've fitted are faulty out of the box which is pretty common unfortunately.   Check the lines going to the filter head, pressure regulator and pump are all connected to the correct ports as well - very easy to get one wrong. Circuit diagrams pop up on a Google search. 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, Eightpot said:

Faulty injector seals will tend to cause difficult starting and fuel in engine oil.  It may or may not help, for the couple of quid it costs for seals it's worth a punt, but as you say it starts first time, it wouldn't be my first thought. 

Proper diagnosis by measuring is the fastest way through a problem like this rather than keep buying new parts. A nanocom and plug in fuel pressure gauge will tell you what's going on and at least rule out a whole bunch of stuff that is working fine. It also can't be discounted that any of the new bits you've fitted are faulty out of the box which is pretty common unfortunately.   Check the lines going to the filter head, pressure regulator and pump are all connected to the correct ports as well - very easy to get one wrong. Circuit diagrams pop up on a Google search. 

 

 

 

When my injector seals went the td5 conked out under load. It was then hard to start unless purged. Idling etc it was fine and would stop start fine. This was similar both times and both times new seals solved it. Given the list of jobs the op has done the seals seem likely to me. 

I'd only go genuine on these so more than a few pounds. Seen britpart ones the wrong size for the injector! If the op hasn't done them before it's copper washers and o rings needed. There's a nice write up on discovery2.co.uk

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