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one shot grease


trainspotter
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There's a good argument that the thicker swivel grease won't lubricate the Railko bushes as well as the thinner EP90 oil. Some poeple swear by One Shot. I've never heard of evidence that there's been premature Railko failure ue to the use of grease. Some people use grease anyway as a stop gap to put off the very messy job of replacing the swivel seal or chrome ball due to heavy leaking.

Les. :)

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i've just stripped an axle which had one shot grease in both swivels, uj's were fine, it wasn't leaking through the swivel seals, swivels had seen better days, but the railko bush had lots of play in them. dont know the history of the axle or if the grease was put in after the railko had already worn.

if u've got leaky swivels then change the seal (and chrome swivel if needed), its not that much of a big job really.

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I was thinking of vertically drilling and tapping for a grease nipple and then cross-drilling the top pin (forgotten the name!), so that there won't be any problems even using the grease (or with free-wheel hubs etc when there is no splash-lubrication).

Thoughts?

Al.

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I was thinking of vertically drilling and tapping for a grease nipple and then cross-drilling the top pin (forgotten the name!), so that there won't be any problems even using the grease (or with free-wheel hubs etc when there is no splash-lubrication).

Thoughts?

Al.

I did that mod on my swivel pins, works a treat, just a couple of pumps of grease on every service and my minds at rest. Easy to do as the pins are pretty soft to drill trough.

Grem

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What would be an intelligent choice for hole sizes (for the vertical hole and the cross-hole)?

Obviously the top of the vertical would be threaded to take the nipple, so no guessing there, but should I continue the same hole right down, or just have a small diameter one?

And what, 2 cross-holes at different heights?

Drill vertically right out the bottom, or stop inside the material?

Some dumb questions for a Monday morning! Al.

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What would be an intelligent choice for hole sizes (for the vertical hole and the cross-hole)?

Obviously the top of the vertical would be threaded to take the nipple, so no guessing there, but should I continue the same hole right down, or just have a small diameter one?

And what, 2 cross-holes at different heights?

Drill vertically right out the bottom, or stop inside the material?

Some dumb questions for a Monday morning! Al.

if its got a hole comin out the bottom of the pin it would just pump grease through the washer at the base of it and straight into the swivel housing. IIRC the fibre washer which sits under the pin has a hole in the centre

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  • 1 month later...
had a lok at railko bush last night, there is a hole at the bottom

Grem,

did u cross drill so the grease came out the side of the pin or bottom of pin?

Well I drained out the EP90 from the swivel joints on my Series 3 and replaced it with one shot liquid grease.

This might surprise you but the EP90 was leaking from the swivel joints prior to this change.

My question is this. The capacity of the swivel joints is one pint. The one shot comes in a pack with capacity 0.6 pint. Is it OK to run these joints with 60% filling of lubricant?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I can't resist getting my oar in on this one. Just to baffle you all with science, the Swivel grease is EP00 thixotropic grease. This means that it is thick when left alone and gets liquid when moved or stirred. So it will not leak out of the swivels when stationary, but lubricates all the bits when moving.

Just in case you are interested, lotsa stuff out there is thixotropic, especially cosmetics. This allows women (and some men, of course) to apply liquid mascara which goes solid on the eyelashes. Lipstick is the same, easy to apply and then solidifies.

This is not to suggest that you top up your swivels with the contents of Swambo's handbag :ph34r:

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Besides the lubrication, the biggest problem is what heppens when you get water in there??? With oil, it is easy, just drop the oil and replace, but with grease???

Although my swivels are oil-tight, there are plenty of times I have had a small amount of water in there after deep wading. So what happens to all the people with leaky swivels???

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Besides the lubrication, the biggest problem is what heppens when you get water in there??? With oil, it is easy, just drop the oil and replace, but with grease???

Although my swivels are oil-tight, there are plenty of times I have had a small amount of water in there after deep wading. So what happens to all the people with leaky swivels???

This is especially a problem with the newer swivels which do not have a drain or level plug (normal LR economising on minor but important things). With those you have to completely disassemble (and who is going to do that).

Even though I posted about the grease, I am still using EP90 because I think it is a better lubricant and I don't find it too bad to change a seal every so often. I have done one, and the other is becoming due. This is at 220k kms.

If grease is so good, why don't we put it in the diffs and the transfer box?

I am also one of the people with wheel bearings lubed by EP90 after the seals gave up. (well, after I deliberately stuffed them up, to tell the truth).

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