BrUcE Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I found this http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/57.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I think you have so little lift you don't need these. The suspension pounages springs and shocks are the issue. How much lift over std have you actaully got ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 You'll find that most of the aftermarket lift kits achieve the lift by using stiffer springs, which are good for heavily laden vehicles, but will be awfull if you are trying to improve ride quality... You'd be better off with standard springs, and good quality shocks (Koni heavy track) Your uprated Ironman suspension kit isn't doing you any favors with regard to ride quality on potholed roads.. Neither is lifting your vehicle really.. I've driven in eastern europe and africa, so have had loads of experience I had +2" bearmach blue springs in my old 110.. they were so stiff I thought my teeth were going to fall out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I'm going to get much softer but longer springs and foam cell shocks. That'll fix the ride but steering will still need correcting when it comes down to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 I think by lifting your truck you might have upset the steering caster angle a bit, in order to correct it, you need to rotate the axle back a couple of degrees.. some folk use castor corrected arms, but i don't like the look of them, and know a couple of people who've broken them... you can use special bushes, or have your swivel housings modified.. if you rotate the axle you might find it upsets the front prop angle, causing vibration.. then you need a wide angle prop to sort it out.. personally i'd live with the caster angle, as the solutions all have drawbacks... What you could try is a really good steering damper, like Koni or Old Man Emu... make sure your panhard rod bushes are tip-top, and if you fit new bushes, use new bolts aswell, as the bolt shanks can wear, allowing movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 I think by lifting your truck you might have upset the steering caster angle a bit, in order to correct it, you need to rotate the axle back a couple of degrees..some folk use castor corrected arms, but i don't like the look of them, and know a couple of people who've broken them... you can use special bushes, or have your swivel housings modified.. if you rotate the axle you might find it upsets the front prop angle, causing vibration.. then you need a wide angle prop to sort it out.. personally i'd live with the caster angle, as the solutions all have drawbacks... What you could try is a really good steering damper, like Koni or Old Man Emu... make sure your panhard rod bushes are tip-top, and if you fit new bushes, use new bolts aswell, as the bolt shanks can wear, allowing movement. I have a good quality steering damper and all new bushings but check the link that I put up in here alittle higher up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 Longer, softer springs will certainly make for a more comfy ride, but it might wallow a bit arround corners.. what you've got to remember is suspension is a massive compromise, if you impove one area, another will suffer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 Anyone who is interested in lifting the car without sacrificing the ride I suggest a body lift because I am so confused. Everybody has an opinion but no one has the definitive answer. So if u just have to have 295/75/16 or larger like me and u dont compete in offroad events. BODY LIFT. I hate this topic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 What do you mean by that? don't understand the problem so avoid it completely? A body lift won't improve on road handling at all - apart from marginally raising the COG, it's also a lot of work on a 90 or a 110, not just a case of longer bolts and spacers. Soft(ish) springs and stiff anti-roll bars should give decent on road performance, especially with decent shocks, i'd have thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 18, 2007 Author Share Posted February 18, 2007 What do you mean by that? don't understand the problem so avoid it completely?A body lift won't improve on road handling at all - apart from marginally raising the COG, it's also a lot of work on a 90 or a 110, not just a case of longer bolts and spacers. Soft(ish) springs and stiff anti-roll bars should give decent on road performance, especially with decent shocks, i'd have thought. Who said anything about improving? Just keeping it stock but raising the body Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted February 18, 2007 Share Posted February 18, 2007 This question has been asked before, what are you REALLY after? Comfortable ride? 'Performance' ride? just a 'pimpin' truck with big 'chromies'? What are you trying to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 This question has been asked before, what are you REALLY after? Comfortable ride? 'Performance' ride? just a 'pimpin' truck with big 'chromies'?What are you trying to do? I wrote it up top. Comfort, with the same ride height. I hate to say that. It's not what I imagined when I started this project to begin with but it's my first car so I shouldn't beat myself up sometimes. I know nothing about mechanics but I read and really put some thought into it. I get great advice from u guys here and i must thank you. Even the ************ guess I did most of the right things. Most hands on work was done by a guy here near the Bog Walk gorge. They are a large family that grew up with Land Rovers throughout every generation even before arriving to Jamaica from India probably. They are brilliant and keep many many rovers in operation which have been serving farmers for years, plus other customers ofcourse. But they can fix anything. The garage is a dirt yard and theres parts in the open.like a scrapyard with no office. But looks are decieving. I have 2 other friends that know him and since I did mine they are all doing defender projects and they are soon to be on the road with em. I heard from our dealership out here that when there father died landrover sent a special defender for his funeral just to transport him. There was apparently landrovers for several kilometers. Apparently it was taped and sent somewhere. The other day they had a private family outing and they said that 32 landrovers were driven to the event and 1 toyota. Anyhow thats huge here. theres no clubs for four wheel driving here that I know of. No monster trucks. Couple of bling bling huge F-350's or something american like that and 1 or 2 skyjacker big tyre jeeps. Other than that people just drive stock cars. Japanese mostly. really mixed up of europe and america and japan. melting pot of manufactures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 The most common reason for people fitting a 2" lift kit is in order to fit larger tyres (for either off-road use, or cosmetic purposes) Raising the vehicle 2" without fitting bigger tyres makes the motor look daft and doesn't improve ground clearance. Bigger tyres with a standard set-up will give problems with suspension travel/wheels rubbing inside the wheel arches. In my opinion, a 2" lift does not really need cranked radius arms - especially for what you have stated you want to use your truck for. Just fit:- +2" springs (or H/D ones) +2" brake hoses] Extended shocks Tyres greater than 235/85/16 to fill the larger wheel space. Just my opinion, and what I would do. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 The most common reason for people fitting a 2" lift kit is in order to fit larger tyres (for either off-road use, or cosmetic purposes)Raising the vehicle 2" without fitting bigger tyres makes the motor look daft and doesn't improve ground clearance. Bigger tyres with a standard set-up will give problems with suspension travel/wheels rubbing inside the wheel arches. In my opinion, a 2" lift does not really need cranked radius arms - especially for what you have stated you want to use your truck for. Just fit:- +2" springs (or H/D ones) +2" brake hoses] Extended shocks Tyres greater than 235/85/16 to fill the larger wheel space. Just my opinion, and what I would do. Les. can i counter some of these arguments and say just run it stock. i run 285's on stock suspension, heated and bent the arches up a bit so the tyres do not protrude and clipped the edge off the rear of the front arches and that was it. if you're careful you can do a really good job and no one notices. this solves any issues changing from stock and it should fit fine. granted 295's a shade wider, but it should still be ok. you get slight rubbing (or so i've been told, i was driving at the time) on full articulation, but at that point you're going pretty slow so they wont get ripped off. they did rub when the back of the car was full of 3/4 ton of sand when going round corners a shade fast, but it did not damage. car is still as capable off road and you dont have to think about any knock on effects of changes, someone did that at the factory for you some time ago. also means you dont have to spend any more money, which is nice. i speak form the perspective of a 110 owner, but i wouldn't think a 90 will be any different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted February 19, 2007 Share Posted February 19, 2007 here's some pics when i had just got the tyres, hence the shinyness, none with the wheel stuffed into the arch alas close up of the cut as well, i think it can be done much neater than that, was my first go and i just used some tin snips and then a file or the angle grinder, i dont remember. i followed the lead of HFH who had similar cuts, maybe on all arches, i can't quite remember.they may have been more neat than mine also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 19, 2007 Author Share Posted February 19, 2007 Very nice. Well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Bruce, I'm with Callum on this, go back to stock suspension. I ran my 35's on stock (sagging springs in fact) suspension for quite some time with no bother just some rubbing at the back so you should have no bother with the 295s. Just be prepared to trim the rear eyebrows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrUcE Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 Bruce, I'm with Callum on this, go back to stock suspension.I ran my 35's on stock (sagging springs in fact) suspension for quite some time with no bother just some rubbing at the back so you should have no bother with the 295s. Just be prepared to trim the rear eyebrows. yeah I agree with u both. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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