mattD110td5x Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 Hi All - I have spent all weekend under a LR "researching" this quiz.... So, it's a Td5, D110, 2000MY, xtreme(county?); - low on top end horsepower, - fuel pump is around half pressure, - MAF meter has been diagnosed as stuffed by swapping in a goodin, - every once and a while she won't start, get the click but no starter motor, - battery is fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . There was around 2V drop between the battery and the fuse box under the seat - which also means that the ECU (injectors), fuel pump and starter solenoid were running on ~10V (or possibly less ) The solenoid contacts are a little stuffed - but I have bent the contacts up a little so it all works at the moment. Prince of darkness strikes again! ttfn Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 the green stuff is verdi gris corrosion, so at some time water has got into tha joint or the cable has reacted with the metal terminal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 no, the cable has overheated due to bad contact at the crimp (strange because it looks well crimped) the green oxide has formed after the insulation & tinning of the copper wire has burned off. should be ok after reterminating. do it well. probably also contributing factor is parctice of mfr using wire gauge which is JUST ok. if you can do it replace with a larger gauge wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun D Posted February 25, 2007 Share Posted February 25, 2007 I get this sort of problem all the time (although to be honest that's the worst I've seen in ages). The worst offenders seem to be Vauxhall and Peugeot for some reason, but as you know now Land Rovers aren't immune. I'm not sure why it happens but I suspect it's lack of cleanliness at the assembly stage, a good crimp is supposed to be a "cold weld" anything less than absolute cleanliness and it's a problem waiting to happen. Cut the wire back until you see bright copper even if you have to splice a piece in, I know you've probably done it already! Nice one! Shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoSS Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Actually looking at that pic again, its not got hot right at the crimp (see the little bit of copper colour) I think that there has been a stress point just after the crimp, then perhaps some cores have broken & started to increase resistance at that point, subsequently it has then heated up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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