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Soundproofing


Chris123
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Hi guys,

Is there anypoint trying to soundproof my landy? It's got the usual holes in the floor, bulkhead, missing door seals, missing some plugs from the gearbox tunnel etc. and with the old diesel it's a very noisy thing to commute in.

Is it likely to be worth the effort, and what's the best way to go about attacking the prolem?

Cheers,

Chris

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Excellent stuff, I'll start plugging some holes up this week. As for rubber matting, what's the best way to attach this to the footwells and bulkhead, I imagine some glues could go rather mank with the damp and the heat?

The proper thing to use to fix carpets &c to sloping panels are called "lift the dot" fasteners, these are basically a press stud.

I would avoid permanent fixings like glue because you should periodically remove carpets/mats to dry off the water that will get between the matting and panel and cause all sorts of problems.

On mine I'm thinking of using Rivnuts and holding the carpets in place with screws and large washers. Not very pretty in a posh car but in keeping with a Series Landy I reckon :)

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Someone glued carpet to bits of the inside of the 109, it all came off as it was really manky and then left furry glue everywhere :angry: if you use the rubber mats then they can just be placed in, if you have to hold it down with something make it removable.

Sealing up holes, fixing rattles and topping up all the oils can make quite a difference before you start on actual soundproofing...

Oh and a cheap version of Dynamat is to stick heavy gauge roofing felt to things :huh:

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Oooh! Have started on it, and it has made a surprising difference aswell as making the inside look somewhat respectable! I've been using a bit of dynamat to soundproof the bulkhead and transmission tunnel, fitted some nice big rubber floor matts, and plugged up all the holes with new grommets and boots.

Next job is to think about a sound system, but that'll have to wait til my bank account recovers I think

Cheers,

Chris

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Oooh! Have started on it, and it has made a surprising difference aswell as making the inside look somewhat respectable! I've been using a bit of dynamat to soundproof the bulkhead and transmission tunnel, fitted some nice big rubber floor matts, and plugged up all the holes with new grommets and boots.

Next job is to think about a sound system, but that'll have to wait til my bank account recovers I think

Cheers,

Chris

So if you can't ctaully make it quieter, just drown out the noise with music!!!

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So if you can't ctaully make it quieter, just drown out the noise with music!!!

That's the logic, though the problem is that come the summer I'll be taking the roof off so any sound system will be exposed to lack of security (of which there is none at the moment anyway), and to the elements. However I have a cunning plan!

The plan is to build two boxes, possibly out of ally and mdf, which will bolt /rivet onto the tub, and positioned on the sides just behind the rear-bulkhead. In each will be a speaker, and one of them will house an amp aswell. So far I reckon this should all be pretty much secure and sealed from the elements (if the speakers are inset fairly well into the boxes).

Now here's the clever part; if the amp can take a pre-amplified signal then I can run a wire from the amp, to the dashboard with a 3.5mm jack on it. Allowing me to to plug in a portable mp3 player/cd player/anything I can put in my pocket etc. et voila! A sound system with no head unit that can't be stolen! :D

Though is this just crazy-thought, or should it work okay? I've never really played with sound systems before.

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Now here's the clever part; if the amp can take a pre-amplified signal then I can run a wire from the amp, to the dashboard with a 3.5mm jack on it. Allowing me to to plug in a portable mp3 player/cd player/anything I can put in my pocket etc. et voila! A sound system with no head unit that can't be stolen! :D

This bit will definitely work and work well - if you get an MP3 with a radio then you've got the lot! Love the idea - why didn't I think of that?

I'm not sure of the quality of the radio in the cheaper brands, but I have a Creative Zen Vision:M (£137 inc post on eBay) and the radio in that is simply brilliant.

Now where do I get one of these pre-amp things you mention?

Rog

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This bit will definitely work and work well - if you get an MP3 with a radio then you've got the lot! Love the idea - why didn't I think of that?

I'm not sure of the quality of the radio in the cheaper brands, but I have a Creative Zen Vision:M (£137 inc post on eBay) and the radio in that is simply brilliant.

Now where do I get one of these pre-amp things you mention?

Rog

I'm not too sure, I went into a local car-sound shop and they had a sony 2-channel amp for £60, which would take a pre-amplified signal. I can't remember the ampage of it though. One above that was a 4-channel amp for about £130 or something, which could do the same job, but with more noise, and more speakers.

Bear in mind you get a lot of water in a Landy (roof or no roof) and MDF is susceptible to moisture. Ammo boxes make good ready made storage, but I don't think their acoustics are all that good!

Yea I think that's the main worry, I suppose it may be possible to find some kind of rubber/plastic material to mount the speakers on, which are cut into the ammo box, giving it better acoustics maybe? Gonna have to measure an ammo box now, as I'm not too sure an amp could fit in too easily. Would look the dogs though!

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A good plan indeed, the headphone output from an MP3 player / radio / laptop should feed a standard amp no problem. Bear in mind that amps like to be cool (hence why they tend to resemble a giant bling heat-sink) so putting it in a box may not be the best thing without some level of cooling - either vents, or perhaps a quiet 12v fan from a PC case.

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What about rubberising - like the back of pick-ups?

In SA it's about R1600 - less than 160 pounds.

Very durable - No cleaning or carpet removal required. You can actually hose out your landy. IT's like a rubber mat melted onto your landy floor and even the firewall.

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I tried lining the interior of mine with closed cell foam with fairly ordinary results. The biggest improvement in noise suppression came from detail modifications to minimise direct metal to metal contact between engine transmission components and the vehicle interior, such as fitting a cable in place of the all metal accellerator linkage, rubber bushing the main gearbox and high/low t/case levers and handbrake bell crank. I feel that a means of stopping noise transmission fom the steering draglink to the chassis/body unit would also make an appreciable difference but I have yet to work out a way of doing it that wouldn't give the road traffic authorities heart failure.

Bill.

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