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Clutch pedal

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I have two Defenders - the first is a 1994 200 TDI now running a 1996 300 TDI and the other is a 1996 300 TDI. The clutch pedal on the older vehichile is much much harder/stiffer to depress relative to the "newer" model. The stiffness has nothing to do with hydraulics, top or bottom, which have been chaged several times during the 675000+ kms that I have done so far.

So 1. what is the difference between the two models ?

2. can the older model's pedal be "softened" and if then how ?



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There is a difference on some models (unsure of years) where the tower the clutch pivot is on and the position of the pivot gives an easier lighter clutch push.

I have one one mine, but can't rememebr the part numbers nor what it was off.

Nuts and bolts "easy fit" and makes a world of difference

Western may be able to help


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Difference down to the assist/return spring on the later pedal assembly, get another & fit it to the 200Tdi, done it on my 1989 110, just a sraight forward swap & swap the clutch master over to the new pedal assembly, part number is SUB100320 [previously known as ANR3400].

get both vehicles side by side & look at the clutch pedal inside the cab, might have to move some trim, you'll soon spot the different arrangement.

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Thanks Western

The upper clutch pump is leaking so that will have to come out anyway in the near future so no problems there. I don't really understand which bits swap out - can you please explain it slowly ?



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get your hands on the pedal assembly [part number above] which is identical to the pedal in your 300Tdi truck,

on the 200Tdi truck remove the pedal complete with the clutch master cylinder [upper clutch pump, as you call it] & fit the new upper clutch pump & new pedal unit.

new pedal assist spring as on your 300Tdi truck



parts book page new pedal unit


clutch pump pushrod adjustment info


Note --- in the above drawing you can see the earlier spring set up attached to the main body lower face

hope that helps. :D

Edited by western
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