replacing rear cross member

[jericho]

My rear cross member is looking a little rotten,so I think its going to need replacing - I am particularly concerned about the strength of the rear recovery point.

I will just buy a standard replacement,and modify it a little ala Les Henson - can anyone direct me to his post on the topic? I'm sure he had one,but can't find it now.

I will probably buy one with extension chassis arms,or maybe even a rear quarter chassis .

My question is - How do I make sure it is all lined up and in the correct position for welding? Any handy hints would be great,I'm not exactly sure how to go about it.

(its a series swb,but I assume the practice would be basically the same as for a defender.)

Thanks.

[jjojjas]

My rear cross member is looking a little rotten,so I think its going to need replacing - I am particularly concerned about the strength of the rear recovery point.

I will just buy a standard replacement,and modify it a little ala Les Hanson - can anyone direct me to his post on the topic? I'm sure he had one,but can't find it now.

I will probably buy one with extension chassis arms,or maybe even a rear quarter chassis .

My question is - How do I make sure it is all lined up and in the correct position for welding? Any handy hints would be great,I'm not exactly sure how to go about it.

(its a series swb,but I assume the practice would be basically the same as for a defender.)

Thanks.

never done a series, but done a 110. Wrote it up here on my site.

You'll find one here I think, but I can't see it in the archives ??

Jas

[white90]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398

Tech archive

[Les Henson]

Use the body to line it up. Cut your chassis within the widened part of the replacement (don't rely on the new being the same as the old - measure them both and compare). Actually mating the new crossmember to the old is just a job that requires some caution with regards to measuring and cutting. The most important thing, as I'm sure you are aware, is attaching it, especially if you are going to pull anything heavy (such as Bogmonster or HFH)

Ennyway, my tech thread is about strengthening a crossmember before fitting. I gas weld because I'm an old fart because it's far superior to leccy rubbish.

This is the link:-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398

Alterations and strengthening were specifically to fit a NATO hook, stronger grab handles, limit the amount of dirt ingress (kicked up by filthy 90's hogging the road), and future possible corrosion, (not that it happens on a S3 ).

Weakest point will be most likely where you welded it, so take care with the mastic gun to do it properly, this is a a serious safety issue.

The weld should look at least like this, and additional diamond plates on top might be worth considering.

Les.

[will_warne]

Use the body to line it up. Cut your chassis within the widened part of the replacement (don't rely on the new being the same as the old - measure them both and compare). Actually mating the new crossmember to the old is just a job that requires some caution with regards to measuring and cutting. The most important thing, as I'm sure you are aware, is attaching it, especially if you are going to pull anything heavy (such as Bogmonster or HFH)

Ennyway, my tech thread is about strengthening a crossmember before fitting. I gas weld because I'm an old fart because it's far superior to leccy rubbish.

This is the link:-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398

Alterations and strengthening were specifically to fit a NATO hook, stronger grab handles, limit the amount of dirt ingress (kicked up by filthy 90's hogging the road), and future possible corrosion, (not that it happens on a S3 ).

Weakest point will be most likely where you welded it, so take care with the mastic gun to do it properly, this is a a serious safety issue.

The weld should look at least like this, and additional diamond plates on top might be worth considering.

Les.

As Les said, line it up with the body - given Land Rover build tollerances there is a good chance it may not be totally square and it's better to look right than be 100% correct.

[FridgeFreezer]

I welded my rear tub mounts on perfectly flat and level to the datum line as printed in the green bible.

Then I had to cut them all off and weld them back on with the tub in place as nothing else lined up

Wot Les & Will said - cut the old bit to give the new section something to slip over, then bolt it to the bodywork and weld it where it wants to be. I doubt it'll be an issue but it might be worth checking the tub/body doesn't sag down when you remove the old one.