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Theft of winches & bumpers....


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Got me thinking while designing another project.............

.........why not use a M10 Hex bolt and when tightened bang a slug into the hex head?

Ok it will be a pain in the butt to get it off but it will be a lot better than loosing a bumper and winch!

Or better still cut the cone off a locking wheel nut and use that!

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I thought it was bad idea welding bolts, as they're tempered and as such welding only makes them weaker...? :huh:

Yes, but you are not welding as suce, just a blob of weld to the bolt turning so not much heat. You could always put the weld next to the bolt head just to stop it turning.

Paul

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Got me thinking while designing another project.............

.........why not use a M10 Hex bolt and when tightened bang a slug into the hex head?

Ok it will be a pain in the butt to get it off but it will be a lot better than loosing a bumper and winch!

Or better still cut the cone off a locking wheel nut and use that!

Bear in mind that one of those "emergency locking wheel nut removal tools" that are available in most motor factors will have those off just as quick as if you had ordinary hex head bolts on it! Another reason why locking wheels nuts are a waste of money these days......

I reckon you'd be best off using pan head tamper proof Torx screws these days - not many thieves carry a set of torx bits round with them!

Jon

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Easiest way....fit anderson plugs remove the winches when you don't need them during the week etc, fit four bolts and plug them in when you want them for the weekend/event etc

We all know how quick you can remove a 8274 with a battery rattle gun and a pair of big snips :o

It don't take 2 mins to remove them yourself and keep them safe, and the UV of yer Plasma (other Synthetic ropes are available :ph34r: ).....but you lose the pose factor :lol:

This would suit me as I only use the truck for playing ;) , but might not suit everyone depending on winch type and mount

+ on a event it makes swapping front to rear dead easy should it pack up......taps fingers waiting for Hydraulic peeps to pipe up !

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Easiest way....fit anderson plugs remove the winches when you don't need them during the week etc, fit four bolts and plug them in when you want them for the weekend/event etc

We all know how quick you can remove a 8274 with a battery rattle gun and a pair of big snips :o

It don't take 2 mins to remove them yourself and keep them safe, and the UV of yer Plasma (other Synthetic ropes are available :ph34r: ).....but you lose the pose factor :lol:

This would suit me as I only use the truck for playing ;) , but might not suit everyone depending on winch type and mount

+ on a event it makes swapping front to rear dead easy should it pack up......taps fingers waiting for Hydraulic peeps to pipe up !

Thats probably the best idea for me.................Takes away temptation :huh:

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The security nuts in the link above will do the job if you wish to fit permanently, but make sure when fitting that they run home on the thread easily before applying any pressure. I've known plenty of these snap the heads off before they have tightened up.

demountable is a good idea and as stated could then be used front or rear.

Hydraulic winches.......well you can get hydraulic pipe quick connectors too, so again could be demountable. howevery they may be a little on the heavy side to be handled easily from front to back on a muddy challange event!

Nigel.

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By a strange coincidence, last week I had a meeting with a chap who runs a security fastening company in Sussex.

I had an idea for an anti-tamper nut a while back. My prototype sat on my desk for a couple of months and then I thought I'd see if a grown up was interested in manufacturing & selling them under license - to my surprise, he was!

They were designed for this very purpose and are easily removable with a special tool. Unlike most of the competition, you cannot remove them by hammering in a screwdriver, nor using stilsons and are fairly grinder resistant. Best of all however, they will handle very high torques. The prototype stripped an M8 thread - and I dare say it could do the same to M10 without sustaining any damage.

Watch this space as they say!

Si

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By a strange coincidence, last week I had a meeting with a chap who runs a security fastening company in Sussex.

I had an idea for an anti-tamper nut a while back. My prototype sat on my desk for a couple of months and then I thought I'd see if a grown up was interested in manufacturing & selling them under license - to my surprise, he was!

They were designed for this very purpose and are easily removable with a special tool. Unlike most of the competition, you cannot remove them by hammering in a screwdriver, nor using stilsons and are fairly grinder resistant. Best of all however, they will handle very high torques. The prototype stripped an M8 thread - and I dare say it could do the same to M10 without sustaining any damage.

Watch this space as they say!

Si

Simon

Let me know when you want to trial the prototype :D

John

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The H14W weighs 55kg without the bumper/wire rope (I can pick it up reasonably happy and I make Mr Muscle look tough), the rest of the hydraulics weigh a bit but as has been said you can get quick disconnects.

Milemarkers are as light if not lighter than an electric, certainly I would bet a MM-R is lighter than a twin-motor electric.

My H14W would be hard to nick as the handle fouls the rad panel, you have to unbolt the rad panel to get the winch in/out. Lucky they don't really break I guess :lol:

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I have in the past used dome headed allen bolts, and hammered a ball bearing into the hole afterwards. Many toolkits from machinemart etc now have torx and security torx bits in them, and most pikeys will have stolen one of said toolkits by now.

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