8274 rebuild

[Lewis]

I am a complete novice when it comes to winches so i apologise in advance for the probably obvious questions

I stripped the rear winch from the yellow 110 last night as the circlip was missing and the brake hadnt come apart, also the freespool wasnt working correctly and the freespool knob spun freely.

Having taken it apart I soon figured out why the freespool wasnt operational - the keywayed motor input gear had sheared several teeth and split around the centre thus allowing it to become fully floating and to not index with the free spool lever in any position, Is this a common fault? (I'm replacing the input gear for a splined type anyway so its not a concern, just curious)

Despite having no circlip on the brake shaft the brake hasnt separated, even with application of moderate force, Any suggestions? (I have access to a press and pullers etc)

When removed from the vehicle the drum end support fell off, Is this bad? (I know I need a new bush)

The gearbox end drum bushing is stuck in the gearbox. Is this usual?

I intend to put the winch in pieces into the hot parts wash at work, which is a mostly water based solution with a gentle solvent that is used for cleaning heads and blocks, can anyone see an issue with that? Could I also use the parafin wash?

Thanks in advance

Cheers

Lewis

Special thanks to the authors of the guides in the tech archive as thats what I used to strip the winch

[Jon White]

Right.........

No idea if the gear stripping is a problem, as most of us run the later ones with the uprated motors!

Brake disk is probably just stuck on with rust etc. Apply Wd40 or similar and try a few taps with a soft mallet. They can be a bit tricky to get moving if they've been in situ for a long time - I've had trouble in the past. It sometimes helps to tap the square keys in and out with a pin punch. Be careful not to loose the springs, ball bearings etc when it comes apart.

the drum end support will fall off - its not held in place with anything - this is normal.

The gearbox end bushing isnt nomally a problem - has a previous owner stuck it in with sealant or something?

You could use either to clean it off. I srip mine and shove it in a parrfin bath to clean it all up.

HTH

Jon

[ciderman]

If you are overhauling your 8274 , I would recomend you replace the brake shaft for one of Jims Gigglepin uprated shafts , I think it kills at least 4 birds with one stone when fitting one , The main one is the replacement of the brake circlip for a much stronger cap bush . And while your doing that mod get yourself some uprated brake shoes .

[streaky]

As a matter of interest to me and other first time users of the 8274. Exactly how much over-run do these winches give when spooling in or out with no load?....I found mine continued for another 8-10 inches before stopping completely.

I have just rebuilt mine with a 6hp XP motor and a set of the larger surface area brakes discs (compliments of Mark 90..cheers mate!)

Last week I used the winch in anger for the first time to get Cols110 out of a pickle....I was surprised on how much over-run the thing had. Is this down to the faster motor or are the brake discs on the winches rubbish by nature?

My free-spool knob is stuck in perminantly....not a problem when you have a winch as fast as this one though.

Lewis.....have you seen the excellent rebuild page on Pirate 4x4 for the 8274? I found it very usefull considering I'd never even seen an 8274 winch before being given mine!

Regards.

S

[Mark90]

8-10 inches over run is that all?

Over run and a tendancy for the rope (if using plasma) to over wrap the wrong way round the drum are two of the draw backs of an 8274 that you have to watch out for when using one. I guess it's the down side to having such a high low/no load line speed.

[Tonk]

i've got a 6hp fitted to the front winch, over run must be in the region of about 2-3 foot, rear winch has a 4.6hp motor and that runs on for about 5-6 foot, no idea why though

[white90]

have you looked at the 8274 rebuild in the tech archive?

[Lewis]

have you looked at the 8274 rebuild in the tech archive?

Special thanks to the authors of the guides in the tech archive as thats what I used to strip the winch

Yep

Motor input gear, sheared

Rather stuck brake assy with no circlip

Some severe beating with the club hammer made the outer brake move along the shaft, enough to get the broken brake pads and the bearings out, but I'll have to use the press to get it all the way off. Are the gigglepin mainshafts really that much better? - I was planning to drill&tap the shaft for a bolt to retain the circlip anyway

The drum bush doesnt appear to be glued in , I'll try and tap it out with a punch later

Lewis

[white90]

I'd use a puller to free off the brake mech.

Gigglepin shafts are way better not just a little bit.

stronger/better made and has positive location for the brake mech rather than that circlip also has shims to remove slack from the gear train inside.

which drum bush?

lift the plate and the drum will come out and the brake shaft/bush/seal can be withdrawn from the gearbox housing

note the orientation of the gears before removing anything though.

[Lewis]

Right, 18 tonnes of pressing force later and the outer brake is removed from the shaft, finally

I'll shot blast it all tomorrow but it doesnt look too bad, definitely salvageable

It depends on how much is left in the budget but we may go for a gigglepin shaft, I'm thinking about making up a wide drum so the stronger shaft would become a neccessity then

which drum bush?

The gearbox end drum bush that i mentioned in my first post - JW asked whether a previous owner had glued it in, It came out with a pin punch earlier though, just a bit stuck with dirt like the rest of it

I got the drum off no probs - it just happens to still be fitted in the photo's above

Regarding overrun - this 2hp one had the same overrun as the front 4.6hp one, i.e. a lot

[white90]

I have a 6month old standard shaft here if you want it.

I'd budget for ones from Jim then you can forget it.

the plastic bush I see what you mean, you can change that to a sealed roller bearing if you feel like some machine work.

[Lewis]

I have a 6month old standard shaft here if you want it.

Thanks for the offer Tony, I'll bear that in mind. I dont suppose you have the original motor from your 8274?

Cheers

Lewis

[yella 90]

lewis, you after the 2 horse motor or the 4.6 ?

ive got a few motors lying around

[rock_on_skeeter]

A good working condition 4.6hp or two if you've got them?

[Lewis]

Oops - I posted using my mates account

[yella 90]

afink ive got a 4.6 come up motor somewhere

if i trip over it tomorrow when fettling, ill let you no

cant remember its condition tho

afink it needed new brush's, or 1 brush infact

o god 2 many motors to remember whats up with them

dan

[Lewis]

Just let me know what you've got and how much you want etc

[white90]

Lewis

I may know of a brand new Warn 4.6 motor that has never turned as I removed it to fit an XP out of the box.

I'll speak to my Mate to see if he still has it and an idea of ££ if you're interested.

[Lewis]

Tony, very interested, cheers

Lewis

[Lewis]

Stipped my other recently aquired 8274 yesterday

It has some diffrences between the other one

Brake shaft, cam gear is a diffrent shape and the cam itself is part of the shaft on the upper one whilst on the lower one it engages with a spline

The bearing surafce on the brake end, and the drive gear are also wider on the lower one

I prefer the lower shaft - shame its toast

The top housings also have some diffrences

The upper casing has a machined top gear, and has more meat in it, whilst the other has a wider small gear

The casting around the motor is diffrent too

Are these diffrences significant or are they just indicative of age/production changes through the years?

I'll take you up on that offer of a brake shaft now Tony, how much do you want for it?

Lewis

Apologies for the quality of the photo's, its the best I could do