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axle for camping trailer


freeagent
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I'm thinking about building a camping trailer.

I don't want to use a Sankey chassis (already got one) as they are a too small, and spare parts are getting a bit thin on the ground...

so...

I want to build one... steel box section chassis, ali body, already got the rooftent for the top..

what i don't know is, what axle to use? its going to have a gross weight over 750KG so needs brakes, probably looking at running gear rated at 1250-1500KG...

I'd like landy fitment wheels, so i don't have to carry another spare, and i need to be able to source spares (bearings etc)

any links or good ideas would be most welcome... i suppose removing the diff from a landy rear axle and welding in a piece of tube is just too silly... not sure how i'd get the brakes to work either....

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Could you use a drum braked LR axle and replace the hydro actuator with cable operated ones from a hand brake? As you say, start with a Salisbury axle and just replace the centre and tubes with a single one piece tube. Could be very neat.

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I'm thinking about building a camping trailer.

I don't want to use a Sankey chassis (already got one) as they are a too small, and spare parts are getting a bit thin on the ground...

so...

I want to build one... steel box section chassis, ali body, already got the rooftent for the top..

what i don't know is, what axle to use? its going to have a gross weight over 750KG so needs brakes, probably looking at running gear rated at 1250-1500KG...

I'd like landy fitment wheels, so i don't have to carry another spare, and i need to be able to source spares (bearings etc)

any links or good ideas would be most welcome... i suppose removing the diff from a landy rear axle and welding in a piece of tube is just too silly... not sure how i'd get the brakes to work either....

Go here and have a look around.

AL-KO they do any tyrpe of axle and any hubs with brakes or not and with any stud pattern

On my camper trailer , i have a solid 42mm bar with taped ends . The hubs run ford bearings with (at the moment ) toyota stud pattern hubs, but is going to be changed to land rover stub pattern

The best thing is to get a axel like this with braked hubs , disc or drum which ever you fancy. And them place the axle on a set of prabolics leaf springs. . It will be great strong and remeber keep it simple and then nothing to go wrong.

To give you some idea of price . Here in aus the axel 42mm for off road trailer will cost £20 the braked hubs will set you back about £80 for the pair. So not expensive for the right set up

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What bits are thin on the ground for Sankeys? Series wheel bearings, steel, alu, a couple of lights... what else is there?

I thought the same thing John. :)

Matt, remember that a new trailer has to have auto reversing brakes - difficult without buying the proper hubs/brakes.

I am also planning to build up a camping trailer but I am going to base it on the Sankey I have. I think that it should be big enough, especially if water tanks are made to sling underneath. Other than that, things (cooker, fridge etc.) will slide out from one side of the trailer and I am proposing a Maggiolina style roof tent on the top of it.

Chris

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I have an old caravan chassis (auto reverse) which I got to convert into camping / expedition trailer.

It has a solid axle on leaf springs with cable brakes.

I intend narrowing the chassis and changing the hubs for S3's (hopefully use the original activators in place of the hydraulics)

The most difficult part as far as I can see will be..........getting it out of the garage from under all my spares to get the job started :rolleyes:

Nigel.

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If you're driving into the middle of nowhere with it, how about using something exactly the same as your current front axle? That way you'd be carrying spares with no effort! :)

Just lock the steering by welding up a solid mounted track bar or something? You could even take a spare diff in it for the front or rear (both I mean).

Just a thought...

Al :)

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Pug 405 rear axle? bolts on with 8 bolts, torsion suspension, drum brakes, nice compact dampers - £30 from a breakers :)

not sure if it will be too softly sprung but they take a good kicking and still keep going!

Edited - at the all up weight you want it will definately be undersprung - soz :(

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If you're driving into the middle of nowhere with it, how about using something exactly the same as your current front axle? That way you'd be carrying spares with no effort! :)

Just lock the steering by welding up a solid mounted track bar or something? You could even take a spare diff in it for the front or rear (both I mean).

Just a thought...

Al :)

too many moving parts

remeber keep it simple

Just a solid bar with wheel bearing on the end. No problems nothing to worry about

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too many moving parts

remeber keep it simple

Just a solid bar with wheel bearing on the end. No problems nothing to worry about

I'd agree with that, just get a 50mm square beam (or similar) and weld a hub on each end.

Although this shows the destruction of an axle, it does show how mega simple it is.

385Disasterstrikesthetrailerisdamag.jpg

Nick

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What bits are thin on the ground for Sankeys? Series wheel bearings, steel, alu, a couple of lights... what else is there?

I was under the impression that the hub seals and brake components and stuff were hard to come by....

The reason i don't want to use a Sankey, is they are just too small, I've got a 1.4m rooftent, which will overhang the sides too much.

I also think the Sankey is a bit short...

Has anyone on here ever used/seen/owned a wide track Sankey?

are they any longer than a regular Sankey?

Having a look around I can buy a straight wide-track Sankey for about £300, and if all the mechanical bits are still obtainable then it might be a fairly cheap way of getting a rolling chassis the right sort of size....?

Thanks for all the ideas guys, lots to think about...

what I'd really like is one of these...

stof.gif

but they are about 10K.... which is about 4 times what my landy is worth!!!

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need idealy to have the track of the trailer the same as the track of the truck.

And the best for off road trailer is to have a 2m draw bar . This means it will be better off road and you can still open the back door of the truck with the trailer on.

Go here some good points to look at AULRO

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