Les Henson Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 If you intend on removing the sump then you can lock the crank on one of the webs. Nothing short of dynamite will let the crank turn then. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Chock one wheel front and rear ……lock the centre diff and put it in 5th ………….then use a ¾ drive socket and breaker bar…………….. slide a 5 or 6 foot length of scaffold tube over the breaker bar……………. Stand on the wings and undo the nut ………. This method has never failed me yet………………….. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Chock one wheel front and rear ……lock the centre diff and put it in 5th ………….then use a ¾ drive socket and breaker bar…………….. slide a 5 or 6 foot length of scaffold tube over the breaker bar……………. Stand on the wings and undo the nut ……….This method has never failed me yet………………….. Ian It the bolt is _REALLY_ tight the clutch will just slip using above method.... Had a problem with a really stubborn bolt (my rattle gun is good for 700nm of torque, and it couldnt undo it!!!) - then devised the following - slightly more time-consuming - method. The pulleys can be unbolted from the crank damper. Then find a suitable lenght of flat steel (10mm thickness will do). Drill two holes using the unbolted pulley to measure from. Then grind the flat bar between the newly drilled holes, so the flat bar can be bolted to the damper pulley. Then - using a piece of strong chain - tie the other end of the flat bar to the chassis rail. Then find a suitable socket and a 3/4" breaker bar and two meter pipe, whereafter the problem can be easy overcome using brute force! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiall Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 It the bolt is _REALLY_ tight the clutch will just slip using above method.... Had a problem with a really stubborn bolt (my rattle gun is good for 700nm of torque, and it couldnt undo it!!!) - then devised the following - slightly more time-consuming - method. The pulleys can be unbolted from the crank damper. Then find a suitable lenght of flat steel (10mm thickness will do). Drill two holes using the unbolted pulley to measure from. Then grind the flat bar between the newly drilled holes, so the flat bar can be bolted to the damper pulley. Then - using a piece of strong chain - tie the other end of the flat bar to the chassis rail. Then find a suitable socket and a 3/4" breaker bar and two meter pipe, whereafter the problem can be easy overcome using brute force! i used a 3/4 buzz gun with a 1600nm reverse torque to get it mines of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muck Truck Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 have a look at this crank locking tool Ok u'll have to buy it, but if your going to be doing more than 1 cambelt in the near future then it will be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger Posted April 8, 2007 Author Share Posted April 8, 2007 Right, well, I got it undone!!! Had to take the starter out and locked the wheel with a bolt in a hole. It took a 6ft scaffold pole over the breaker bar and 15 stone of pure muscle to get it undone.!! Downside is I smashed the pulley, undid the bolts took a pry bar to it and it shattered. Poxy cast carp so now will have to find a new pulley. Also had to take exhaust manifold off to get to starter so thinking now may aswell do the head gasket while its half stripped. All good fun!! If anybody has a spare pulley I need one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 8, 2007 Share Posted April 8, 2007 glad it came off shame about the pulley! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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