gazelle Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I have spent some time browsing the archives and attached files for ideas for recovery points on the back of a 51 plate td5 90. It has been very interesting and educational reading!! All the posts appear to suggest that a different approach is required for landys with the "bacofoil" rear cross member. As I want to be able to get out of trouble when I get stuck, I need to raise the TD5 rear recovery problem! The front is sorted for the time being with Jate rings from Rebel4x4. I have looked at Jate rings for the back, but there is not enough space, especially on the left side of the vehicle (seethe following pictures:) Fuel Tank side Exhaust Side With Jate ring There is a standard LR adjustable height tow bar fitted. Picture of Tow Bar I think that the "Recovery points" pdf in the "recover info" post suggests that the drop plate (without towball!) should be ok as a rear recovery point, but I would welcome clarification. Any other cost effective ways of providing rear recovery suitable for greenlaning and occasional deeper stuff on organised events would very welcome. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I have spent some time browsing the archives and attached files for ideas for recovery points on the back of a 51 plate td5 90. It has been very interesting and eduactional reading!! All the posts appear to suggest that a different approach is required for landys with the "bacofoil" rear cross member. As I want to be able to get out of trouble when I get stuck, I need to raise the TD5 rear recovery problem! The front is sorted for the time being with Jate rings from Rebel4x4. I have looked at Jate rings for the back, but there is not enough space, especially on the left side of the vehicle (seethe following pictures:) Fuel Tank side Exhaust Side With Jate ring There is a standard LR adjustable height tow bar fitted. Picture of Tow Bar I think that the "Recovery points" pdf in the "recover info" post suggests that the drop plate (without towball!) should be ok as a rear recovery point, but I would welcome clarification. Any other cost effective ways of providing rear recovery suitable for greenlaning and occasional deeper stuff on organised events would very welcome. Martin I would fit a recovery point to the four bolts that attacht the tow bar bracket to the rear crossmember. I have done something similar to my 90 and it works great. It might be advisable to use longer bolts, depending on the recovery point you use, I have a pin-type coupling, (very easy (and save) to attach straps) but there are alternatives. Greetz, Filip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I have a NATO hitch on mine (2004 Def 90 300Tdi) and I am just careful. I know from experience it will stand a gentle tug in 2nd low with a nylon rope, but it won't stand a hard tug in 3rd low. I just work around that restriction as anything that makes it 100% unbreakable is too much work/cost/hassle for me. I was going to try and beef it up but I can't be bothered as basically the only 100% secure method would be to cut the rubbish crossmember off and start again and that is waaay too much work. One thing I would say is that IMHO a 2 bolt recovery point on the bottom set of holes spreads the load better than a four bolt one like a NATO hitch. I only use a NATO because I have 2 trailers that need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Just move the slider/pin hitch up as far as possible, I have a similar set up on my much heavier 110 & not had any problems extracting it from sticky places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Southdown TD5 secondhand rear tank guard with detachable towing pack, but will need the recovery eye fitting, just so happens i have one available, it may need a little persuasion to fit though. its currently fitted to my td5 '99 plate 90. it fits without removing the tin foil std LR tank guard. 6 mounting holes on the bottom fuel side brackets, (3 each side) 2 on rear cross member face and 2 on rear crossmember underside (IIRC) Dave started making these for td5 but found that they all differed so much that it became a nightmare so didnt pursue them. i have one his trial ones. he would make you a rear recovery eye to fit to it to suit i expect. More expensive than other options but i would argue more secure, stronger and better departure angle as the tow hitch can be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 I've had no problem with my rear recovery point so far.. it boltys straight into TD5 crossmember you can buy them from LRS Offroad, lrs Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 Steve, thats just because you only use it to fend off other motorists, especially the ones around Taunton........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Southdown TD5 one on mine You can get a recovery eye made to suit so you can remove the tow hitch and replace it with the recovery eye. (about £40 IIRC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 Seem to remember Southdown said they didn't do a Td5 one when I wanted one a year or two back... If I was keeping my 90 I would get one of those. Do they do a similar thing for a 110? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 BM - their website seems to suggest they do them for 110 td5 nows Southdown td5 guards 110 note the comments about mine and trail ones in my first post, he still doesn't do them for 90s. The one above is for sale though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattD110td5x Posted March 31, 2007 Share Posted March 31, 2007 All the posts appear to suggest that a different approach is required for landys with the "bacofoil" rear cross member. As I want to be able to get out of trouble when I get stuck, I need to raise the TD5 rear recovery problem! Hi Martin, I think the most important statement in the numerous threads on this subject is that any rear recovery point should cross brace to the JATE bolt holes. This is overly complicated for the 90 as the fuel tank is in the way As long as you have a solid connection to the rear tinfoil cross member and the 2 JATE bolts everything should be fine(-ish). Of course there is always scope for cataclysmic failure with a kinetic strap and full bore in low range 4th ttfn Matthew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted April 5, 2007 Author Share Posted April 5, 2007 Thank you all for your advice. Picking up Western's solution, I will get a second slider for the hitch and attach a recovery point similar to that shown by SteveG. That way I will have a relatively low cost low speed recovery solution (i.e. no kinetic recovery!!!!!!) . As I am likely to be self recovering with a tirfor type winch if stuck on green lanes, I think that should be OK. If I am wrong, let me know! Would it be sufficient for the marshalls at Minstead? Later on, once I start to tackle more difficult conditions, I will need to re-consider the Southdown solution. Thanks for all you help Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Hi Martin, i may have an adaptor plate that will fit to allow your recovery hitch to be fitted, its basically a big C section that fits over a std dixon bate, let me now the width of your hitch and i will measure you and see if it fits if your interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 BM - their website seems to suggest they do them for 110 td5 nowsSouthdown td5 guards 110 note the comments about mine and trail ones in my first post, he still doesn't do them for 90s. The one above is for sale though. I've got 1 on the rear of my 90. Retro fitted td5 chassis. Used the rear tank protector as a winch mount. Got both the tow bracket and recovery eye. Fantastic bit of kit. Worth giving him a call to see if he will do 1 for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 Mark - your is a tdi tank guard not a td5 tank guard, although its a td5 chassis i dont believe it have the td5 tank support guards therefore a tdi tank guard was /is fitted. you can ring him, but i dont reckon he will do one unless you take the vehicle to him! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WALFY Posted April 5, 2007 Share Posted April 5, 2007 I assumed it was a TD5 tank guard as I have a TD5 chassis and I had to take it to him to get the mount made to fit my chassis. So have I been given a TDI gaurd. If thats the case then there would of been no reason to go there and get it measured Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted April 25, 2007 Author Share Posted April 25, 2007 Finally finished putting it all together. The LR drop plate was drilled by a local steel fabricator who also supplied all the bolts. Thanks for all your help. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 25, 2007 Share Posted April 25, 2007 You maybe better off using the DB pin in the top slider rather than bolts, it'll be easier to remove when not required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted April 26, 2007 Author Share Posted April 26, 2007 Point taken. I reasoned that there would be less risk of it coming off with 2 M16 8.8 bolts than with the single pin. I had intended to leave it permanently attached. Thanks Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 26, 2007 Share Posted April 26, 2007 Point taken. I reasoned that there would be less risk of it coming off with 2 M16 8.8 bolts than with the single pin. I had intended to leave it permanently attached. Thanks Martin The pin is much stronger than it looks, I've put heavy loads through mine without any problems, OK with you wanting to leave the ring on permanently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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