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Painting advice anyone?


FridgeFreezer
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Yes, I am actually applying PAINT to the 109, using the coach enamel as supplied by the Paint Man who goes to all the shows. You thin it with white spirit and it seems to work well (I've painted one door and a door top so far as they were off the vehicle so easy to get at :D )

However, being a numpty I can't work out if more thinner is going to = slower drying to a smooth finish (because there's more to evaporate) or faster drying to a lumpy finish (because there's less paint to dry).

Also, not going for a mirror sheen but is there an easy/cheap way of rubbing the inevitable brush marks out of it a bit? I don't want to waste time painting, sanding, painting etc. but if there is something that will take it back to being reasonably smooth without needing further coats/attention then I may give it a go.

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Yes, I am actually applying PAINT to the 109, using the coach enamel as supplied by the Paint Man who goes to all the shows. You thin it with white spirit and it seems to work well (I've painted one door and a door top so far as they were off the vehicle so easy to get at :D )

However, being a numpty I can't work out if more thinner is going to = slower drying to a smooth finish (because there's more to evaporate) or faster drying to a lumpy finish (because there's less paint to dry).

Also, not going for a mirror sheen but is there an easy/cheap way of rubbing the inevitable brush marks out of it a bit? I don't want to waste time painting, sanding, painting etc. but if there is something that will take it back to being reasonably smooth without needing further coats/attention then I may give it a go.

Coarse cutting paste? - Farecla

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More thinners means the paint dries quicker, but also flows quicker too and the paint coat is thinner once the runs have all set :P . Don't paint in direct sunlight, as the surface of the paint skins and then drags and then possibly micro-cracks at a later date. You are going to post some close-up pictures of the finish aren;t you Fridge? - I mean, a stipple-finish 109 might look quite nice (well, different anyway!)

Les.

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Yes, I am actually applying PAINT to the 109, using the coach enamel <SNIP>

Glad you asked this one as I was about to ask the same question for when I replace my doors and door tops.....

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shouldn't need to rub it down if you do it properly. make sure you prep it properly also, thats the only let down on my hand painted finish. i think it would have been easier to rub down my car had it been coated with steel rather than that army paint.

always finish on the down stroke when applying it by brush, makes a bit difference. paint it well and with care and you shouldn't be able to tell it was done with a brush.

hit up google for 'land rover, coach paint, tekaloid' should put you in the direction of a web site about coach painting with good tips, like wettin ghte ground before you begin to keep the dust down.

try and do it indoors, painting on the driveway is ****, especially if the paint takes a while to dry. eventually as night falls it becomes damp and the lovely finish you've applied can start to wrinkle. its also really annoying if it rains :(

shouldn't need ny special stuff, just a good brush ( i used a harris 'no loss' one because i am lazy). that combined with some dulux exterior gloss resulted in a good finish. that paint is pretty good, but it takes 2 days to dry. which was cool on the bonnet, wings and doors, but less cool on the bits which i couldn't bring into the garage. was even less cool doing the white of the roof as on the first night it rained and now i have a wrinkly roof :( thankfully its white so doesn't show to much.

hand painting is greeat because its easy to touch up if you damage it (and can be bothered) and also easy to touch up if you need to change stuff or whatever.

take your time and enjoy it (if you're inside). its very theraputic and immensely satisfying when you do a good job.

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Well, fridge, you saw mine several weeks ago at Marks, and commented on the 'textured' finish.

I have since resolve dthe problem, in the way i should have in the first, i rubbed it down, by hand with wet n dry 600 grade paper.

I just used a short pile mini roller after i had rubbed it down and washed the whole truck in white spirit to clean the residue off the body before painting. On the fiddly areas i used a good quality brush, ie door shuts etc.

The enamel i used was proper coach enamel, never used any thinners in it, once it dries the enamel 'shrinks' to remove visible marks, excluding the odd run that i missed. However i did do the repaint in doors, and it took a good 18hours to dry, 12hrs and it was tacky on light touch.

After the repaint and rub down, which i should have done in the first place, the finish has come up really well.

It was the roller applied primer that caused the texturing to the first finish. I am really pleased with it.

The most important thing is doing the initial prep, boring, tedious and hard by hand, but it makes all the difference.

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try and do it indoors, painting on the driveway is ****, especially if the paint takes a while to dry. eventually as night falls it becomes damp and the lovely finish you've applied can start to wrinkle. its also really annoying if it rains :(

Driveways are ok but difficult when the leadlight gets frozen to the gravel. Dark, freezing, not the most ideal painting conditions! The worst is doing a lovely coat of paint then finding several inches of snow on it the next day ... four days later the thaw reveals 'dark leyland blue' turns into 'light leyland blue mixed with sand'!!! Seems to make a good undercoat though!

shouldn't need ny special stuff, just a good brush ( i used a harris 'no loss' one because i am lazy). that combined with some dulux exterior gloss resulted in a good finish. that paint is pretty good, but it takes 2 days to dry. which was cool on the bonnet, wings and doors, but less cool on the bits which i couldn't bring into the garage. was even less cool doing the white of the roof as on the first night it rained and now i have a wrinkly roof :( thankfully its white so doesn't show to much.

I used foam rollers, the best brush I had for touching up (oo err) and 2 litres of Woco paint from the local agri merchants! Not perfect but well passable for an old Range Rover!

Four years later it's due for a repaint and it is going to be Tekaloid, probably with a bit of Flowrite (Owatrol et al) added which should take all the brush marks out and using brushes courtesy of my friendly contact at the Hamilton Acorn factory down the road. More of an electric blue this time, carefully chosen using a handy Pantone colour chart and the girls' opinions in the office!

AndyG

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Another vote for the foam roller, prep the whole lot, go round with paintman paint as is (not thinner). Go round first wit a thin layer and then continue going around again with a thicker layer. Kind of fourth bridge idea, but wet in wet. My roof and sides look like they were sprayed, really pleased with that.

Daan

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The 'paint man' stuff that I have uses xylene as a thinner rather than white spirit....

Be very careful of this! I've bought paint from the Paint Man, 1 can required xylene for thinners the other needed white spirit! The results are bad if you use the wrong thinner for the wrong paint! - such as the paint going tacky when the metal work heats up!

Read the labels on the can and if in doubt phone him up and he'll tell you the right thinner to use from the product code.

Cheers,

Lee Outram.

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I'm sure this has been discussed before but does anyone reckon one of those electric sprayers would give a halfway decent finish (EG similar to using spray-cans)?

I tried one 36 years ago to paint my first car - I vowed never to touch one again. The paint has to be thinned to b'ggery (with all of the problems that that entails) and comes out like... Well I can't think of a simile sufficiently tiddle-weak. :unsure:

There is no way that the one I had would match a spray can, but spray-cans were too expensive since we had a large area to do.

Of course they may have improved by now? :D

I remember seeing a spray gun advertised in 'Practical Motorist' that plugged into the air outlet of a cylinder vacuum cleaner - now there was an idea! Imagine trying to ensure that the outlet of the SWMBO's hoover was dust free? :lol:

Rog

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I'm sure this has been discussed before but does anyone reckon one of those electric sprayers would give a halfway decent finish (EG similar to using spray-cans)?

Ive bought one for this purpose, used it to paint my bulkhead top panel on the lightweight. It came our marginally better than applying with a brush but i think i could have made a better job with a bit more prep time. I'm going to have a blast at doing my doors next so we'll see how it goes.

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His etch primer uses xylene ISTR, but the gloss - white spirit.

Xylene seems to do a good job of thinning Hammerite too :rolleyes:

I must have the last of the old batch the first tin of gloss says "Contains xylene's"

Cheers,

Lee

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I have one of those electric spray guns. Bought it to do the garden fence (lots & lots of fence....) Tried it with gloss on the garage door and the finish is unreal. Looks factory finish (not Rover either!). Never tried car paint with it though, You get very little over spray and you need to keep the gun clean...more so than with a compressor gun (from vague memory...)

Mine was about £60, for twice that you could get a cheap compressor.

Also did a mini with enamel and a roller years back. Finish was spot on mostly. Any dodgy bits were dust, dog hairs or me putting it on too thin so you could see brush marks. Lasted well for about 4 year until I sold it.

Jas

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Well that sealed it, wandering round the local DIY shop they had some dodgy brand (McArthur? :huh: ) of electric spray gun for £15 with a 2-year guarantee (do they ever learn? :lol: ) so I bought it and have just done the first couple of coats on the top half of the 109.

Overall, given my slack preparation and lack of spraying experience / any sort of affinity for the art of a smooth finish I think it's done pretty well (I may even post a photo or two). I quickly found that it's best to ignore totally the thinning advice in the manual, the test layer went on like water :blink: I just about got it OK. Second time round was about 75/25 QD enamel to white spirit and it seemed to be happier. When the paint runs low it does go a bit "splatty" but you can catch it before it goes haywire. That and I'm not overly bovvered about the odd run here or there, it may be a classic restoration :D but it's not a show-truck.

Best way to describe it (from a newbie who's never sprayed's point of view) is it's like using a very fast and very violent spray can - you've got to move quick but it goes on in a similar way (wot like sprayed or something :rolleyes: ) and seems to give a similar level of finish - not factory but a bit quicker & nicer than rollering (or at least nicer than my rollering attempts :D )

One thing I also found is that I'm now very slightly tinged with LR Limestone all over :rolleyes: but that was to be expected and I am usually covered in something LR related these days :P

What the hell, let's have a piccy:

post-21-1175878322_thumb.jpg

As you can see, it's not mirror finish (or even daily sport finish) but it's definitely all the same colour :P you can see a bit of splatter at teh very bottom left where it ran low while I was tilting the gun down to do the roof - I forgot that it comes with a handy 90° nozzle extension before I started :rolleyes:

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