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Rear Bumper Winch Bumper Tow System Dodaah

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FINALLY, .......Finally I have been able to do some Fab work for meself :lol:

Thought some may be interested on what I have been fiddling with, .............

thanks to Mr BishBosh for help with my back-of-fag-packet drawings :lol:

Huge number of hours so far have gone into it, ..............a few more yet to come

but I think now with help from BishBosh and others onto a much neater / stronger solution

The saga of the 'last' 2 winch units behind me I have given considerable thought to a 'proper' system.

Here are my efforts so far :

Basically the plan revolves around completely replacing the rear cross member as a unit,

and re fabbing up a new one out of heavier steel plate, but not too heavy :P

a similar shape, but to then allow me to have a proper decent mounting for the rear PTO Driven MileMarker.

The basics are to have the winch fitted in a more "Normal" way, thus getting rid of the twisting problem previously

ie allowing the drum to take in as per normal with the rope at the bottom of the cross member, however

I also wanted to be able to switch easily to a tow ball unit for those few occasions I need to tow something

So, I started with 2 "Lumps" of channel,

the main "winch tray being out of 6mm plate, has a tray at the base, an upright, and then a fold at the top for added strength, the "CrossMember" is 5mm

These were just "Tacked" together to allow me to be able to then drill the winch 4x mountuing holes

and mill out the letter box etc, it will still all come apart for welding on.

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Seen here as just that 4 holes drilled winch fits -

actually getting 4x holes in exactly the right place 1st time is more tricky than it sounds :lol:

Then a bit of shaping:


...............and a taddette of milling :


Then make the 'letter box', this also adds back in huge strength to the letterbox gap, also I have tubed the 2x lower bolts for the winch / Hawse, The letterbox was made bigger so the plasma rope should never really come into contact, ......

but if it does its very very smooth, ..........incuding the way its welded on the back winch tray :

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Then some top gussets, (there are some inside too, and weld up the bottom sections - made from 4mm

and also I have cut back the "Wings" at an angle for extra clearance :

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Then modify the old Stainless Steel hawse I have used in the past

and refit with sunken countersunk allen bolts (can then pull sideways without plasma touching allen bolts etc :


Then add the towball unit - detachable without having to do anything other than fit and bolt up in place with 6 bolts :

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Next................................. Fitting it :lol:

I Have made up large / long sideplates for the chassis sides, and the plates for the cross member to fit to the rear tub etc,

the unit tacks will be cut and the front and rear sections will then be fitted sepeerately so as to get maximum welds

and access, also still to do are the recovery points, ...........but for this I need to get a bigger 'gas axe' as mine 'aint big enough to heat up and then bend up what I have in mind :angry:

More to follow .......................



Yes I work in a mess, ....................it takes years of practise :lol:

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Thats looking pretty special, :)

Will you be putting jacking tubes into the crossmember?

Not really sure.......

When I go to cut in the recovery eyes I will have to decide...

part of me says to do it, part of me says why ?? as I have never ever used them in the past !!


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Just out of interest, how many and what size of bolts do you think it will need to fit the new cross member?

When I do this on my new truck I'm going to use four 1/2" Witworth studs with penny washers on each side. :i-m_so_happy:

Have you considered pop rivets?

My mate, who fixes aeroplanes, says that you could glue it on too. :rtfm:

:ph34r::hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical:

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I have to say I am a little concerned - the advice I gave you was based on the (somewhat rash it would appear now) assumption that you would be employing your usual approach to material selection.

My (non existent) calculations were based on you using at least 20mm pure unobtainium and not the rubbish thin bits of steel you seem to have knocked together.

Next time I shall be clearer with my advice :blink:

Looking good Sir - when do we see it in situ....?

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When I go to cut in the recovery eyes I will have to decide...


What are you fitting in terms of rear recovery points? Some Tonk style swivelly shackles or some nice bits of 20mm bar curved into loops?

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Nige, have you read the new Tacho rules for HGV's. I may have a spare tacho and a few boxes of cards. Alternatively you could re-register as a recovery vehicle, no tacho, no worries on the excess wieght unless over 50tonnes kerbside and no MOT.

If this one fails I have some 12mm RSJ in the yard

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