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'Turning' wheels


muddy
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I realy want some wheels with more offset for my 90 and having seen many wheels, mainly disco ones i would like to have a bash, i would like to have a go with standard landy riveted rims- my thinking being that the rivets will be easy to grind out :D What methods are there of re setting and welding then? measure 4 times, small stitch welds???

I will not be using the wheels on the road i am aware of the implications of doing this.

any pics would be gratefully recieved :D

cheers, Will.

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I'm probably gonna get flamed for this - but why bother cutting and re-welding them when it seems far easier to cut the chamfer for the wheel nuts in the other side - hey presto 1 reversed rim

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A friend at work has done it several times with disco steels as they are mostly flat so it is easily done. I can see it would be an issue with other rims such as Wolfs or modulars though

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I did my mog wheels by putting them on a axle and rotating them, with a run-out gauge.

Very awkward to do, and get right that way.

The way (I think it was Paul W suggested) is to get a flat bench, put a large (10"+) tube through the middle of the rim.

The tube is cut to the height where you want the wheel centre.

You can just then put the wheel centre in, tap it down so it rests on the top of the tube.

Providing, bench is flat and the tube is cut accurately - one square rim ready to weld up.

Actually thinking about it, if you were to do it up-side down, you could then put the tack welds into place without disturbing the "jig"

Clear as mud ;)

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I have been thinking and thought if i can get a peice of flat plate say 20" square (ny ideas on thickness?) and then drill 5 holes in the centre to L/R PCD and then weld some 5/8" threaded bar in the holes, i can then sit a wheel over these studs and weld some 20x8 flat bar at 4 points (north, east, south, west) around the rim so thatonce the rim is seperate from the centre it cannot move out of square, i can then put a set of wheel nuts upside down on the studs for the wheel centre to sit on at its required offset and then clamp the centre down with another set of wheelnuts to prevent the centre moving during welding, i could even tack the rim to the plate before hand to prevent it pulling during welding.

so am i mad? what sort of thickness plate am i looking at for the flat base plate and as i'm guessing that is gonna cost me an arm and a leg from barrats does anyone have a bit they would like to sell me? :D

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I've done a few Disco steels. Grind the welds, the sparks fly nicely straight into your face, tap out centre (smack 7 bells of), don't forget to hit your wrist with a lump hammer, turn and tap.

To set the offset I used a thick piece of steel bolted to the ball joint hole on a hub, adjust the wheel until it brushes the steel throughout its rotation. In reality it's not that easy as the centre is tight in the rim. Then weld it up.

Don't expect to do more than two on your first day. The use of a big gap bed lathe or milling machine with rotary table would make it a more pleasant job.

Annoyingly I now need some 5.5" rims with a shallow well, which excluded 110 rims, and a deep inset. Disco steels are about the only wheels that clear the brakes and steering so I need to move the centre and reduce the rim width :angry:

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I've done a few Disco steels. Grind the welds, the sparks fly nicely straight into your face, tap out centre (smack 7 bells of), don't forget to hit your wrist with a lump hammer, turn and tap.

I spent a whole day just seperating the centres out of five disco rims and a bit of cleaning them back up. It took me nearly an hour to clean the shower down that night :lol:

I used a method similar to that which Moglite descibes to reset the offset before rewelding:

post-260-1176191019_thumb.jpg

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Where are you based? I've got a nice little jig that clamps the centre so that when you drop the rim over the top it is nice and square. I do this on Disco rims regularly for my racer, and the only pain is cutting out the welds. You will then also probably need some heat on the rim to get the centre out without damaging it.

I'm in Devon, so if you're near, you could use the jig no probs.

Toby

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Guest diesel_jim

Bryn Hemming did mine (well, he did them for himself and i swapped a set of wheels with him)

I think he did it the "grind weld and then beat with a sledgehammer" method to remove the middles.

He made a jig with his DTI set up to get the rims perfectly true again. 4 are, one has a bit of a wobble, but i've got simex's on them, so it doesn't really show anyway! :D

They're good, look good, but they're so far offset that if you go through the slightest bit of mud then ths sides of your vehicle get instantly covered in poo,especially with 35"'s on

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I'm in west yorkshire so a little far i think :lol:

thanks for the offer tho, if you have any pics i would be grateful :)

cheers, will.

Will try and remeber to take some photos and PM them to you. Remind me if I haven't got back to you by the middle of next week, as I'm a little busy at the moment.

Toby

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I just try to do this. Yes it's possible and wheel track increase=160mm. It may be useful on mountain tarrain.

But You have to improove disc a litle by conical washers for disc centering. After that You'll be able to reverce discs whenever You want.

Probably will need make some improovement on the outside disc by increasing surface of contact with hub, but I'm not sure about this mod.

Also don't forget about additional trimming (last picture) :D

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