jpk Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Evening all. My front door hinges have a fair amount of play in them. How much of a mission is it to change these. I've done a search and found nothing about it. I'm just wondering how the captive bolts go into the bulkhead. And I'm guessing the bolts are not exactly going to undo with a few deft wrist movements. If you know what I mean. As always, any advice gratefully received. Thanks JP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jameslwt Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Evening all.My front door hinges have a fair amount of play in them. How much of a mission is it to change these. I've done a search and found nothing about it. I'm just wondering how the captive bolts go into the bulkhead. And I'm guessing the bolts are not exactly going to undo with a few deft wrist movements. If you know what I mean. As always, any advice gratefully received. Thanks JP Find a big ole' screwdriver with a square shaft that you can stick a spanner on, and make sure you push the screwdriver in hard so you don't round off the heads as it's very easy to do! And use some penetrating fluid beforehand as they are bound to be siezed up nicely! Quite an easy job though, unless the bulkhead has corroded! The captive nuts just clip arount the holes. Do one at a time with the door shut, as the doors are heavy, and 'immobilise' the door as much as possible as it saves too much faffing about trying to get the gaps correct! Hope this helps James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSN Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I replaced the hinges on mine when changed the bulkhead. Hinges weren't cheap but the bolts and captive nuts weren't too much from dealer I seem to remember so easiest to change the lot. Meant for some I could drill them out if not wanting to undo. Hope it goes okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Budget on replacing the captive nuts and at least some of the screws as well. I find it best to use a screwdriver socket, extension bar and ratchet as it allows you to apply a decent amount of inward pressure while turning. If you find that they are well and truly stuck then an impact driver or airgun is the next line of attack. If that doesn't work then it's out with the drill. Undo and replace them one at a time and don't forget to pencil around the old hinges before you start work as this will give you a rough reference when it comes to refitting. Use Copperslip on the screw threads too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjojjas Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 as above really. I used an impact driver, the one that got stuck was drilled out and new captives were used. not such a bad job. Jas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest dew110CSW Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 We had to replace one (Drivers top) which wasn't too much of a job. Except for my dad managing to loose the captive nuts down the inside of the bulkhead! Budget on replacing at least a couple. Good ol' amount of penartrating fluid on them and they move without too much hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 The problem I had was captive nuts no longer being captive so ended up with a couple of the bolts spinning. Had to resort to hacksaw between hinge and bodywork. But I'm sure you won't have a problem ;) Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpk Posted April 12, 2007 Author Share Posted April 12, 2007 Thank you one and all. Does'nt sound too bad then. . . he says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Just done the complete vehicle on the 109, biggest PITA is getting the doors to line up again a BIG screwdriver or a bit that fits into a socket is the best way to go. Hinges are cheap enough from paddocks etc., don't mess about get the nuts, bolts etc. with it - even if your current ones are in "ok" condition you never know what you'll find until you undo them and for a few quid extra you'll have bling shiny new ones B) Remember hinges are handed, and the top drivers/passenger ones have the holes for the mirrors - which you need to bolt on BEFORE you bolt the door on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 On mine and dads i just fired straight in with the drill saves messing about, buy all new hinges, and all new fittings you can also get SS ones now, buy a few more captive nuts because you will lose/break one and have one of those magnetic doobery whottsits. On another note has anybody made rthem so the hinge pins dont rust after 24hrs because thats really annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 You could always try lubricating the hinge pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 I painted mine with red oxide and then filled the pins with oil and smeared some grease over the end but they are still rusty ah well just another landy thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark green 90 Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 If the door shuts without slamming dont bother my passenger door bottom hinge is as loose as jordan but it closes no problem however the drivers door has no play and need a good slam (ripping off,melting down,seperating from loved ones and scatered to far flung galaxies) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 As per above, I used impact driver. However, depending on the age of your vehicle, you may have a plate with two welded nuts on them. My 1991 200tdi had these and I felt a lot more confident about giving them a whack than I would with the captive nuts. If you are prepared ot pay a bit extra, go for stainless and copperslip. it reduces the rust (a bit!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 As an aside once you've got the hinges off make use of the access to the top and bottom of the bulkhead pillars and get some Waxoyl sprayed in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 If the Threaded clip snaps (known as a lockut nut), then everything will just turn, even with the pressure of a drill on it. If this happend you need to cut at an angle through the hinge so that the head of the screw is sliced off. Once the hinge is off you can then remove the remains, which invariably then drop down the door pillar I would recommend replacing the lockut nuts and all screws - they are cheap enough and save you having to go back to get more bits if something unexpected happens. Plaster everything with grease as best you can, and consider squirting waxoyl up and down the pillar as MOG suggests while you are in there. Place some old copies of page 3 of the Sun - you can then make bets/comical remarks on where the drips are likely to land , under the bottom of the pillar to catch the waxoyl as it runs out the bottom, and use lots of it in the mistaken belief that loads will guarantee total coverage inside. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 I painted mine with red oxide and then filled the pins with oil and smeared some grease over the end but they are still rusty ah well just another landy thing... Got new hinges for my 90, knocked out the hinge pins and got the hinges dip galvanised for 5 squid for the whole lot ( 2 doors worth). Clear off excess galv, redrill hinge pin hole, knock back in pins, fit to Landy with stainless bolts. No more rust (well at least on that bit..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.