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Replacing door hinges


jpk
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Evening all.

My front door hinges have a fair amount of play in them. How much of a mission is it to change these. I've done a search and found nothing about it. I'm just wondering how the captive bolts go into the bulkhead. And I'm guessing the bolts are not exactly going to undo with a few deft wrist movements. If you know what I mean.

As always, any advice gratefully received.

Thanks

JP

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Evening all.

My front door hinges have a fair amount of play in them. How much of a mission is it to change these. I've done a search and found nothing about it. I'm just wondering how the captive bolts go into the bulkhead. And I'm guessing the bolts are not exactly going to undo with a few deft wrist movements. If you know what I mean.

As always, any advice gratefully received.

Thanks

JP

Find a big ole' screwdriver with a square shaft that you can stick a spanner on, and make sure you push the screwdriver in hard so you don't round off the heads as it's very easy to do! And use some penetrating fluid beforehand as they are bound to be siezed up nicely!

Quite an easy job though, unless the bulkhead has corroded! The captive nuts just clip arount the holes. Do one at a time with the door shut, as the doors are heavy, and 'immobilise' the door as much as possible as it saves too much faffing about trying to get the gaps correct! :D

Hope this helps

James

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I replaced the hinges on mine when changed the bulkhead.

Hinges weren't cheap but the bolts and captive nuts weren't too much from dealer I seem to remember so easiest to change the lot.

Meant for some I could drill them out if not wanting to undo.

Hope it goes okay.

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Budget on replacing the captive nuts and at least some of the screws as well. I find it best to use a screwdriver socket, extension bar and ratchet as it allows you to apply a decent amount of inward pressure while turning. If you find that they are well and truly stuck then an impact driver or airgun is the next line of attack. If that doesn't work then it's out with the drill.

Undo and replace them one at a time and don't forget to pencil around the old hinges before you start work as this will give you a rough reference when it comes to refitting. Use Copperslip on the screw threads too.

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Guest dew110CSW

We had to replace one (Drivers top) which wasn't too much of a job. Except for my dad managing to loose the captive nuts down the inside of the bulkhead! Budget on replacing at least a couple.

Good ol' amount of penartrating fluid on them and they move without too much hassle.

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Just done the complete vehicle on the 109, biggest PITA is getting the doors to line up again :D a BIG screwdriver or a bit that fits into a socket is the best way to go.

Hinges are cheap enough from paddocks etc., don't mess about get the nuts, bolts etc. with it - even if your current ones are in "ok" condition you never know what you'll find until you undo them and for a few quid extra you'll have bling shiny new ones B)

Remember hinges are handed, and the top drivers/passenger ones have the holes for the mirrors - which you need to bolt on BEFORE you bolt the door on.

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On mine and dads i just fired straight in with the drill saves messing about, buy all new hinges, and all new fittings you can also get SS ones now, buy a few more captive nuts because you will lose/break one and have one of those magnetic doobery whottsits.

On another note has anybody made rthem so the hinge pins dont rust after 24hrs because thats really annoying...

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As per above, I used impact driver. However, depending on the age of your vehicle, you may have a plate with two welded nuts on them. My 1991 200tdi had these and I felt a lot more confident about giving them a whack than I would with the captive nuts. If you are prepared ot pay a bit extra, go for stainless and copperslip. it reduces the rust (a bit!)

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If the Threaded clip snaps (known as a lockut nut), then everything will just turn, even with the pressure of a drill on it. If this happend you need to cut at an angle through the hinge so that the head of the screw is sliced off. Once the hinge is off you can then remove the remains, which invariably then drop down the door pillar :angry:

I would recommend replacing the lockut nuts and all screws - they are cheap enough and save you having to go back to get more bits if something unexpected happens. Plaster everything with grease as best you can, and consider squirting waxoyl up and down the pillar as MOG suggests while you are in there. Place some old copies of page 3 of the Sun - you can then make bets/comical remarks on where the drips are likely to land :P , under the bottom of the pillar to catch the waxoyl as it runs out the bottom, and use lots of it in the mistaken belief that loads will guarantee total coverage inside. :)

Les.

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I painted mine with red oxide and then filled the pins with oil and smeared some grease over the end but they are still rusty :angry:

ah well just another landy thing...

Got new hinges for my 90, knocked out the hinge pins and got the hinges dip galvanised for 5 squid for the whole lot ( 2 doors worth). Clear off excess galv, redrill hinge pin hole, knock back in pins, fit to Landy with stainless bolts. No more rust :D (well at least on that bit..)

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