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weight loss


white90
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I'm going to put the 90 on a Diet to see what can be saved.

The H/T and all remaining panels are staying as is all glass.

I see some savings in the rear loadspace lining and brackets for anti rollbars on the chassis not required.

what about a few Speed holes :)

Steering guard worth keeping? Paul Wightman hasn't had one for as long as I can remember

Tank guard could lose some material.

any other info to offer?

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Worth weighting the 90 as she is now !!

As you already remove the rear door,, remove the pass seat for events as well !!

Swap the doors for wolf/military type, and remove door tops, convert to rag top

The hybrid did not run a steering guard for a while, only fitted, for the like of LFH,, and the river bed at 7S,

Presume both guards are alloy ?? :unsure: when the rally cars when on diets, the guards were changed to carbon, it was surprising what weight can be lost, inside the bumpers, door panel, under dash, tailgate etc with a hole cutter, but every bit helps,

However, can not see a LR gaining a lot on challenge type events unless you lose at least 250kg, and without a full rebuilt, i would think is hard !! i would not bother !!

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Mark - When i have codriven for Tony (or anyone for that matter) i cant say i ever remember spending longer than a min or so in the truck, excludes going to the events and returning and special stages.

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Ive been wonderin, is it worthwhile/wise to leave the spare wheel with trailer, or at scrutineering during challenge events to save weight/space,maybe carry a small one just to get back to base?

Only event Ive done is the Santas wich is multi venue,would it be frowned upon for codriver to take support vehicle with tools and spares to each site?

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Loose the plywood paneling

Series doors instead of Lardy wind ups :rolleyes:

Removable door tops

Get rid of the tons of rubber and sound proofing :blink:

Alloy steering guard

Holes in side of the Tank guard

Get rid of the radio and speakers :o

You need to loose the full hard top to gain a fair bit of weight loss along

Use a libiral coating of vapour build (Patent Pending), lighter than air, to gain the most weight loss :ph34r:

Bin the high lift and use a small jack on a waffle board(how often do you honestly use the high lift :unsure:

Junk the cubby box :D

Clear out all the sweets :angry:

you need to lose all the stuff that has no fuction for ultimate lightness....not easy on a part time comp truck, for obvious reasons ;)

Total up the weights of

cage

diff guards

tank guard

winches x 2

Bumper

Rock/tree sliders

Side sliders

Wing bars

Southdown mount

Underdrive

H/D Steering rods

Lardy or what ???

What a difference driving mine totally stripped for its test :D

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Nick

Definatley

makes the world of difference losing the rear door/spare wheel.

if I need a spare either co driver gets it or I drive on the flat(this can be expensive)

Ask Tony how he knows :lol: ,,

do you always do challenge,s with a full tank of fuel ? plus a xeng disc hand brake saves 5 kg ,s

Wish i could run on half a tank,, have to top it up at lunchtime as it is, !!!! :lol: its a V8 thing :D

X-Eng handbrake,, must be the best £150 odd spent on the hybrid,

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do you always do challenge,s with a full tank of fuel ?

I start with a full tank, but know that by the end of the first punch it will only be half full and I'll be wishing I'd brought a couple of Jerry cans ;)

Seriously though, the weight saving ought to make a big difference. Unlike tyres on the road, off road the tyres are often climbing through the mud. In this situation you don't get much additional traction from the weight, so long as there is enough to push the tyre into the mud. Thus by reducing the weight, you will increase the traction on slippy surfaces.

Si

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That half a tank is to drive there

drive around all day and drive home :)

Les the Hard Top stays no matter what

no tea tray back for me they are so last year now days :)

wood paneling I can drop down from 5mm to 2 or 3mm

radio/cubby doors all stay

tried James series doors and they drove me FFFiing mad slamming them all the time

High lift can go, good idea. never use the sodding thing.

with the door/spare wheel/carrier

Sound proofing could go but I like a quiet vehicle to drive around/to from events in.

So all together I could save up to 200kgs that'll do for now

2000kg ready to compete will suit me fine

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<Cough> Aluminium V8 <cough> :P vs Squeezely Cast unit

Seriously biggest and simplest has to be Rag top vs Hard Top

Then you can emty anything not screwed down that you don't need

Then start removing things that are screwed down that you don't need

and or get cute ?

TomCat Fiberglass bonnet wings etc vs std.

Drill holes in guards if not removed

Trim wings ./ panels

Ali Tank vs Std maybe smaller too at the same time

etc etc

Nige

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Ho Hummmmmmmmm

Am playing about with 'suspension mods' at the mo, and have spent most of the weekend under the 90, and on it with spanners, calculator pen and paper...................

I can report that "Cunning Plan 1" did not work, sad.gif

and have now put it all back togther, (with a few bits),

.........but will have to wait for some bits and make some bits before "Cunning Plan 2" starts. blink.gif

I also have been playing with Trev (LR90) Superb Spring calculator on his web site, and obviously one of the key ingredients is the weight of the 90, along with all its bits and then the front and rear axle weights etc.

So, today I took the 90 for a spin to the Guildford Public weighbridge,

I did phone earlier and said :

"Oh Hi, can you confirm I can weigh my vehcile fully loaded & unloaded etc if I bring it in today ?"

"Yes sir, but we have a 30 tons weight limit".....

...........for a moment I thought it was a forumeer working there who had sussed it was me IPB Image

Anyway....

Up to the weighbridge........

Spec for those unsure.

LR 90 4.5 (Eales) V8,

2x ARBs HD shafts,

strenghened Axle casings,

Front Steering Guard (Ali IPB Image)

2x danbars

Full Cage (external Front Internal rear)

Hardtop,

Twin Hydraulic winches, VHD Winch Bumper laugh.gif

Huge 'thing' on the front MileMarker on the Back,

Plasma front and rear (well it keeps the weight down) IPB Image

PTO Drive,

and Tank (35 litres) in the back,

sillbars,

Rear winch guard er 6mm plate

4x 34 simex Mach 5s plus spare in the back,

and a few other 'assorted bits' of metal work rolleyes.gif

I also loaded on my spares box (grunt puff)

and Strops, KERRS shackles Highlift etc etc etc,

and even filled the tank too before getting on the scales....

So...what did the weight meter say : ?

heres the 90 getting on the weighbridge, ...........didn't hear it groan ? ...... IPB Image

IPB Image

and then the nice man gave me the piece of paper just to prove the figures to you unbelivers :

IPB Image

Total Weight : 2280 KGs

Front Axle : 1160 KG

Rear Axle 1120 KG

Quite balanced considering !

But now to the springs with the axles almost matching on weight, having 175 Lbs front and 225 lbs rear make little sense....

More to think through and play.................. sad.gif

So, considering Trevs (LR90) Truck cab, (canvass) and no cage winch etc comes in at 1900 KGs

I'm almost pleased IPB Image

Standing by for the abuse ............. rolleyes.gif ohmy.gif sad.gif mad.gif biggrin.gif

Nige

Lightweight V8 Eh :)

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Guest WALFY
That half a tank is to drive there

drive around all day and drive home :)

Les the Hard Top stays no matter what

no tea tray back for me they are so last year now days :)

wood paneling I can drop down from 5mm to 2 or 3mm

radio/cubby doors all stay

tried James series doors and they drove me FFFiing mad slamming them all the time

High lift can go, good idea. never use the sodding thing.

with the door/spare wheel/carrier

Sound proofing could go but I like a quiet vehicle to drive around/to from events in.

So all together I could save up to 200kgs that'll do for now

2000kg ready to compete will suit me fine

Being sensible now. Do you think you can achieve 200kg from making the wood paneling thinner, losing the hi-lift and loosing the sound insulation. I know these things are heavy but 200kg is hoping a bit isn't it.

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I'd say 50 Kg's at a push !

Not inc Rear door and spare...athough some of the events I've had to go and collect the spare as it was needed for the special stage

Mine is total stip down mode, was 998 front and 1050 on the back with 120 litres in the fuel tank :o

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Well its quite simple: leave at home what you really dont need. I like the idea that if you haven't got a spare wheel, you dont need a jack. However I saw several people in challenge events walking home so thats not the way forward either.

Series doors would be the first thing on my list and plastic windows next. I hate to say this, but your spec list is so complicated. How heavy is that underdrive? I understand wingbars, but again they are not light. it all depends how much time you want to spend. Removing the bonnetframe is another thing I did, saving around 3 kg. drilling radius arms 3 kg, rear fabricated radiusarms saves about 12 kg (no a-frame!) and replacing the a-frame crossmember for someting more sensible is again 10 kg.

You can go on forever, I spend 4 years on it and ended roughly on the weight of a stock 90.

Daan

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Cheers Daan

underdrive(40KG?) pays its way saving the clutch on winch/drive assist sections

front radius arms are lightweight variants

without the rear door/spare wheel/high lift and tool box everything else left in place I'd suspect a starting weight around the 2000Kg mark

which will be a good point to go from.

this is my everyday car for all tasks so making it a nuisance to use isn't ideal

I can get another car for day to day but I like this one so I use it all the time

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Lightweight V8 Eh :)

Erm

I left me lunch in there ?

:P

Nige

PS That inc ALL my recovery gear HD KittyGHripper, 10 shackles, 5 strops, spares box, spare wheel High Lift spare 15 litres water, 5 litres oil etc etc,

so seriously it prob shows how much we carry around that in a true comp you should try to do without

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Tony, there's a lot you can do if your willing to take the time. Here's a few ideas that I've had that should save a kg or two:

- The rear tub has a lot of unnecessary bracing (especially if you're ply lining) which can all go - its all mud traps as well which doesn't help!

- The rear x-member and Southdown winch mount is a big mud trap and is also fairly heavy. Replacing the lot with a new rear x-member (North Off Road or D44) will save a LOT of weight. I'm sure you could also adapt it to take a tow hitch too

- Replace the door glass and rear windows (the ones either side of the door) with Polycarb. While you're at it try and strip anything unnecessary from inside the doors. One piece doors are very heavy for what they are!

- Clean the chassis out!

- Loose the inner wings - they weight a tonne. I know a chap (admittedly not close) who'd be able to make you fibreglass ones what'd be plenty strong enough.

- Loose any under bonnet sound proofing as it makes bu$$er all difference and keeps in heat too.

- De-bracket everywhere!

- Don't just drill holes in guards; you can get cutters that put a dimple in the surface so you don't loose strength.

- If you feel really keen, how about a new cage using things like Clubman 500 and T45? You might save 20+ kgs straight off.

- Maybe loose the heater and use an electric jacket. If your window's going to be open most of the time it'll be more effective.

- A few holes in the steering guard to stop it holding mud. If you're really keen how about a new, thick bottomed tank?

- Loose the QT diff guards and fit HD diff pans. You save weight and gain ground clearance in one.

That little lot should save you a kg or 2. I see no reason why, with a little work, you can't be down to 2000 kgs dead while keeping a couple of creature comforts but you'll have to be brutal everywhere else. As much as anything else, get rid of mud traps. There's no point doing all this work if the truck picks up half a tonnes of mud during an event.

FYI I'm going a bit silly in a few areas (speed holes etc) but I'm still keeping a small amount of sound proofing (moulded matting like James') and a stereo - possibly also some sort of headlining to keep wiring tidy. As Les said, the most important thing is keeping it vapour :ph34r:

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