110 200tdi questions

[Bumpyride]

Hi guys and girls

Coming to the ned of an exhaustive and painful rebuild many lesson learnt. Just a few last questions

1: Brakes don't seem very effective have rebleed several times and flushed through with fluid. Vacum assist all seem to be ok. Is this likely to be a master cylinder problem.

2: If major surgery on brakes was thinking of doing a job i should have done earlier and replace the brake pipes. what the best method for doing this. 1987 model so assume metric fittings, any ideas of cost of replacment pipes, quite fancy a crack at flaring etc myself so any hints on the best place to buy flare tool, pipe etc. woud be appreciated.

3: In a stationary position the front prop shaft can be turned about 1/3 turn before resitiance is felt, i assuem this is backlash in the trasfer box? Is this anything to worry about?

4: Axle breather banjo fitting where do you get them? Am running breather to top of snorkel any good trick (apart from buying the expensive header) to make the pipes from axles, Gearbox etc look neat?

5: Axle oil, hae filled up but in contrast to Haynes manual appear to only have drain plug and either one of filler or level, rather then the three they suggest should be there. i assuem that the higher plug acts as both filler/level?

6: any ideas on cheap sound proofing, have considered 8mm rubber inside footwells/seat box woudl cost around £40 gives that industrial look? any comments.

7: Have purchased a new speedo cable which seems to be the correct length, however the end appears to be round and the transfer box connection is a sqaure orifice. Is this right or any knowledge of correct part number?

cheers guys

[Ex Member]

1: Have you inspected the brakes?? Have you adjusted the drums??

3: Normal yes. Problem maybe. Just live with it until something starts acting up.....

4: I "think" they are 1/8" BSP, but could be wrong... The cheapest way to add to the snorkel it to weld on fittings.

5: The one around the center of the axle is the fill/drain.

7: Round peg, square hole!!! Should be square. No sure how a round cable can be forced to turn. Not sure what you have there. PRC6022, I believe for 4 cylinder right hand drive.

[Les Brock]

6, Camping mats cut and glue

[western]

Hi guys and girls

Coming to the ned of an exhaustive and painful rebuild many lesson learnt. Just a few last questions

1: Brakes don't seem very effective have rebleed several times and flushed through with fluid. Vacum assist all seem to be ok. Is this likely to be a master cylinder problem.

2: If major surgery on brakes was thinking of doing a job i should have done earlier and replace the brake pipes. what the best method for doing this. 1987 model so assume metric fittings, any ideas of cost of replacment pipes, quite fancy a crack at flaring etc myself so any hints on the best place to buy flare tool, pipe etc. woud be appreciated.

3: In a stationary position the front prop shaft can be turned about 1/3 turn before resitiance is felt, i assuem this is backlash in the trasfer box? Is this anything to worry about?

4: Axle breather banjo fitting where do you get them? Am running breather to top of snorkel any good trick (apart from buying the expensive header) to make the pipes from axles, Gearbox etc look neat?

5: Axle oil, hae filled up but in contrast to Haynes manual appear to only have drain plug and either one of filler or level, rather then the three they suggest should be there. i assuem that the higher plug acts as both filler/level?

6: any ideas on cheap sound proofing, have considered 8mm rubber inside footwells/seat box woudl cost around £40 gives that industrial look? any comments.

7: Have purchased a new speedo cable which seems to be the correct length, however the end appears to be round and the transfer box connection is a sqaure orifice. Is this right or any knowledge of correct part number?

cheers guys

1. if new pads/shoes have been fitted it probly needs a good drive & some good braking to bed the pads/shoes in.

2.brake pipe can be bought from most parts suppliers along with the correct fittings, or reuse the existing fittings

3.that's ok, mine turns a bit more without any probs.

4. front & rear axles have a fill/level plug in the diff cover plate, front swivels on front disc/rear drum braked vehicles have a fill/level plug at front & drain at the bottom [my '89 110 does] others with disc brakes all round have a fill on the back, a level plug on the front, a drain on the bottom

6. haven't done that so can't comment.

7. speedo cable has a round fitting at the instrument end & a square end at the transferbox drive end, so what you have is correct, the square end fits into the drive gear shaft on the transferbox & it's held by a fork clip & 10mm hex head bolt. cable part number is PRC6022

[Bumpyride]

many thanks to you all

in true style found both metric and imperial fittings on the brakes, so toying with the idea to replace all pipes to provide one system.

[Coastcard]

Hi, some other ideas:

1) Have you checked calipers. If they have been left for a while during your rebuild and they are old, they could be a bit sticky. In the past, I have been amazed at what a difference a good clean and new seals/pistons have made.

2) I have just replaced all mine using the copper Automec ones. They fit great and didn't break the bank. The tricky ones are the main front to rear and the one between the two front wheels. Easier to do when fuel tank and everything else is out, but just plan it and take your time.

7) Sounds fine. Square end at Xfer box. There is a clamp with 10mm (IIRC) nut that holds the cable in place.