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Tow Hitch on Xmember of New Defender


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I have a standard tow kit on my '02 110 and would like to raise the hitch so it doesn't foul quite so often off road. Does anyone know how Land Rover has fixed the hitches on the demonstrators of the new model it's giving journalists to drive? Peering at pictures in the magazines, these vehicles seem to have a tow hitch mounted on the cross member, apparently on a backing plate.

This picture from the Autocar website shows what I mean: http://www.autocar.co.uk/contentImages/Car.../1047742526.jpg

Thanks,

Phil.

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I have a standard tow kit on my '02 110 and would like to raise the hitch so it doesn't foul quite so often off road. Does anyone know how Land Rover has fixed the hitches on the demonstrators of the new model it's giving journalists to drive? Peering at pictures in the magazines, these vehicles seem to have a tow hitch mounted on the cross member, apparently on a backing plate.

This picture from the Autocar website shows what I mean: http://www.autocar.co.uk/contentImages/Car.../1047742526.jpg

Thanks,

Phil.

2 Things come to mind:

1) If it's that high, you need to adapt your trailer as well to keep it level

2) If you lower it further, you need brackets to the chasis to ensure it's sufficiently strong (just like on the current model)

Greetz,

Filip

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2 Things come to mind:

1) If it's that high, you need to adapt your trailer as well to keep it level

2) If you lower it further, you need brackets to the chasis to ensure it's sufficiently strong (just like on the current model)

Greetz,

Filip

Hi, Filip, I've no need to worry about a trailer as I only use the hitch for recovery which is what I imagine the hitches on the Land Rover demonstrators are for. I can't work out from the pictures how the hitches are mounted but it looks like an option that might suit my use.

Thanks for your reply,

Phil.

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Easiest way would be to replace rear hitch with one of these from lrs off-road..

Exhaust1Medium.jpg

Cheers

Steve

Hi, Steve, thanks for that suggestion; your setup looks very neat. It's make me aware of the risk that the pin of a jaw-type hitch might foul the spare wheel if the hitch is mounted too high.

I must confess, I was half hoping I might be able to reuse the bits of my existing tow kit and avoid paying any money out ;) but I'll have a look at the LRS website.

Still keen to know what the Land Rover chaps have done.

Phil.

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If it's purely for recovery, I would go for somthing like Steve suggests.

In fact, I have something similar on my TD5 90, reinforced the crossmember with a steel plate and mounted a ball/jaw-type coupling so I don't have to bother with shackles. No problem with the spare wheel.

Easiest & cheapest would be to simply mount your towball to the rear crossmember, but definetley not the savest way...

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If it's purely for recovery, I would go for somthing like Steve suggests.

In fact, I have something similar on my TD5 90, reinforced the crossmember with a steel plate and mounted a ball/jaw-type coupling so I don't have to bother with shackles. No problem with the spare wheel.

Easiest & cheapest would be to simply mount your towball to the rear crossmember, but definetley not the savest way...

How did you reinforce the crossmember? I've just been out to look at my car and am wondering whether I could just move the hitch plate up the crossmember? Not sure if the bracing struts that run back to the chassis will still fit though.

Phil.

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If you're planning to pull just from the cross member, you're going to want to do something like BogMonster did here, as the crossmember is made of cheese.

Humm, thanks for that, seems to relate to pre-99MY vehicles though. Mine's an 02 and the crossmember's different, there's already a reinforcing plate which has threaded holes as there's no access behind the crossmember because of the fuel tank. It's still made of cheese, though, which is why I wondered what the Land Rover people have done on the demonstrators and whether I could move the plate of my existing towing kit up the crossmember. It looks as though it woud pick up all the fixing points, which would be good, I just can tell whether the braces which run back to the chassis would still fit. I think it would be sensible to use these as they will strengthen the whole arrangement.

Phil.

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YOu can't do that on a Td5 I have the same problem and am in the middle of specifying a modified Southdown tank guard/tow hitch to meet my needs. Will post more about it later - but for simple rear crossmember attachment of a tow hitch there is a LR genuine parts chassis fitting kit which I will get the part number for later, that is what the LR demo vehicles will have I think. Sorry no time at the moment will look later today....

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My bad, sorry.

When my rear cross member gets rotten it'll get a new one made out of box section, no more hassle!

Yes, a crossmember made out of metal would be helpful!

Bogmonster, thanks for your reply, I'd be grateful for that part number when you have a chance!

Cheers,

Phil.

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The LR chassis bracket kit is KNK100090 and basically consists of a bit of angle iron which bolts to the bottom of the crossmember (3 bolts) and then bolts to a bit which goes on the rear of the crossmember with a further 2 bolts. Depending on whether you fit a NATO hitch in the four M12 holes or a conventional hitch that fits with the 2 x M16 bolts, you can then put additional bolts through this plate (which is about 6mm or 8mm plate can't recall which) and that "helps". It does NOT make the crossmember suitable for serious snatch recovery and I have bent the one on my old 90 with only a modest snatch (low range 2nd gear not many revs). Then I b*ggered it completely when the boat trailer ring jammed while reversing but that is another story :angry:

I am getting one of these http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/DetachableTowing.htm#tp110 with a slight mod to the design so it bolts into all six holes in the rear of the crossmember. I reckon that is about as solid as you will get without cutting the crossmember off and welding a proper one on which is a bit too drastic for a brand new 110 :blink:

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The LR chassis bracket kit is KNK100090 and basically consists of a bit of angle iron which bolts to the bottom of the crossmember (3 bolts) and then bolts to a bit which goes on the rear of the crossmember with a further 2 bolts. Depending on whether you fit a NATO hitch in the four M12 holes or a conventional hitch that fits with the 2 x M16 bolts, you can then put additional bolts through this plate (which is about 6mm or 8mm plate can't recall which) and that "helps". It does NOT make the crossmember suitable for serious snatch recovery and I have bent the one on my old 90 with only a modest snatch (low range 2nd gear not many revs). Then I b*ggered it completely when the boat trailer ring jammed while reversing but that is another story :angry:

I am getting one of these http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/DetachableTowing.htm#tp110 with a slight mod to the design so it bolts into all six holes in the rear of the crossmember. I reckon that is about as solid as you will get without cutting the crossmember off and welding a proper one on which is a bit too drastic for a brand new 110 :blink:

Bogmonster, thanks, my vehicle might have that bracket kit fitted already. There's certainly a piece of angle iron bolted to the bottom of the crossmember. I'm going to undo the tow hitch plate, slacken the bolts on the tie braces and see if I can move the plate up so it's bolted through the top pair of the holes in the crossmember.

Phil.

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How did you reinforce the crossmember? I've just been out to look at my car and am wondering whether I could just move the hitch plate up the crossmember? Not sure if the bracing struts that run back to the chassis will still fit though.

Phil.

I found the crossmember with its standard internal threaded plate was strong enough, but added a steel plate on the outside, bolted to all holes, to help spread the load and avoid bending when pulling up or down.

This has seen some heavy testing, including a Toyo 75 camper, stuck on its axles, none of the wheels touching. Took me about 5 runs at full throttle, but the crossmember didn't budge. :ph34r:

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I found the crossmember with its standard internal threaded plate was strong enough, but added a steel plate on the outside, bolted to all holes, to help spread the load and avoid bending when pulling up or down.

This has seen some heavy testing, including a Toyo 75 camper, stuck on its axles, none of the wheels touching. Took me about 5 runs at full throttle, but the crossmember didn't budge. :ph34r:

Thanks, I'll get some extra bolts!

Phil.

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I found the crossmember with its standard internal threaded plate was strong enough, but added a steel plate on the outside, bolted to all holes, to help spread the load and avoid bending when pulling up or down.

This has seen some heavy testing, including a Toyo 75 camper, stuck on its axles, none of the wheels touching. Took me about 5 runs at full throttle, but the crossmember didn't budge. :ph34r:

Well you must have been bluddy lucky then because I know lots of people that have bent the crossmembers with a lot less than that. The days of being able to take off flat out in 3rd low difflock on the end of 10 metres of 24mm nylon (which I could do in my old 1995 90) are well and truly over.

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The LR chassis bracket kit is KNK100090 and basically consists of a bit of angle iron which bolts to the bottom of the crossmember (3 bolts) and then bolts to a bit which goes on the rear of the crossmember

EPC parts page for the above number attached below :D

post-20-1177691663_thumb.jpg

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EPC parts page for the above number attached below :D

Western, many thanks, I've already got the angle iron fitted so it looks like I need the tow bar mounting plate and some nuts and bolts! Presumably this set up is rated by Land Rover for recovery and towing......

How difficult could it possibly be?

Phil.

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should be just a bolt on job, must be up for 3.5tonne/4tonne towing weights otherwise LR wouldn't fit it.

Yes but towing a 3.5 ton trailer on the road (which is what it is rated for) is a very different set of forces to a bloody good tug with a stretchy tow rope attached to a very stuck vehicle. Towing a trailer on road with no jerks and bangs is pretty easy going by comparison.

It took me about 3 min to fit the kit and a NATO jaw to my new 110 with a rattle gun the other week. Make it 5 min with a normal socket set ;)

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I agree, I did read somewhere with reference to winches that LR only recommended winches with upto a 5 ton pull, as the chassis could be damaged if a higher capacity winch is fitted.

if it's to stuck for a strechy rope pull it's time to dig & winch the stuck vehicle out.

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Phew, with 4.7T I guess I am just on the right side then ;)

Mind you I did bend the BACK of the chassis on my old 90 trying to winch something rather large (the 90 wouldn't stay where it was needed so I chained the back to a 20ft container... :rolleyes: )

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Phew, with 4.7T I guess I am just on the right side then ;)

Mind you I did bend the BACK of the chassis on my old 90 trying to winch something rather large (the 90 wouldn't stay where it was needed so I chained the back to a 20ft container... :rolleyes: )

Did you stretch it as well? :D

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All the Oz delivery Defenders use a Hayman Reece style receiver hitch that sits under the existing crossmember with support arms running a fair way up along the inside of the chassis rails to distribute the load. Does reduce the departure angle slightly, but you still need a removable hitch with over a 100mm drop.

Never heard of anyone having a recovery problem bending the chassis with these. Land Rover Australia obviously didn't think the factory setup was up to scratch.

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