61a Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 One of my CV joints on my 1996 300 TDI is begining to click when turning on maximum lock at low speed. Replacing them according to the Haynes manual looks relatively simple. Is this the case or are they missing something out ? Also the replacements seem to vary quite a bit in price can anyone recommend a supplier ? 61A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 Replacement is easy enough afaik. Only done this on an 89 RRC though. Does the Disco have ABS sensors built in to the CV joint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 AFAIK, it doesn't matter about the ABS sensors cos the CV slides out past them! It's a relatively straight forward job, but can get very messy if you've got grese in the swivels rather than oil. Get the entire shaft out and onto the bench where it'll be easier to work on and give it a good clean so you can see what you are doing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 The only thing that holds the CV joint to the main driveshaft is a thin clip. However, the last one I did just wouldn't pop off, and I ended-up having to cut the joint apart in order to remove it. The joint in the picture had dried up and was cracked on the outside casing, and the inner cage was in the bits you see in the 2nd picture. If your joint is still lubricated and it may well just pop apart as it's supposed to do. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
61a Posted May 18, 2007 Author Share Posted May 18, 2007 I finally got round to replacing the cv today. It all came apart without a hitch. However, isn't there always one, the replacement joint had a slightly raised shoulder and would not allow the outer seal to fully bed in therefore pushing the shaft too far into the diff. A few phone calls and a local supplier came up with the correct item. It cost more but it was worth it to get one that fitted. About 20 minutes later I had the hub back on, all there was left to do was re-fit the brake caliper. Easy. No such luck. One of the bolts holding the brake pipe bracket on would not bite the thread. I removed it ,cleaned the threads and tried again. No luck. I removed the bracket and caliper and the bolt went straight in ! Bracket back on and the bolt again refused to screw in. About an hour later when I was begining to question my sanity the bolt suddenly went in. No idea why and no way I'm taking it off to look. Another little thing for anyone else doing this job is to turn the wheels to maximum lock when squirting in the new grease. Otherwise it won't go in. I know I tried !!!!!!!!! Jules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 ...according to the Haynes manual looks relatively simple. Is this the case or are they missing something out ? ... Haynes? Miss something out? Never! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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