tpk241 Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Hi All, As you can see in the pics below my tensioner bearing broke down ! Luckily it was only running idle when this happened in my workshop. Its a 300TDI Defender engine .. in a discovery 96' commercial A couple of things i need help with: 1. The engine is not original and i dont know the vehicle it came from. Has this timing gear had one of the upgrade kits fitted ? 2. Should I be looking elsewhere for problems that could have been caused by this ? Pushrods, valves etc ? Many thanks in advance TPK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 1. The engine is not original and i dont know the vehicle it came from. Has this timing gear had one of the upgrade kits fitted ?2. Should I be looking elsewhere for problems that could have been caused by this ? Pushrods, valves etc ? 1. Yes - the crank has the lipped pulley on it so a kit is fitted. 2. Check pushrods and rockers, change as required (some pushrods will probably be bent - I take it the timing jumped and engine stopped rather suddenly?) but don't bother taking the head off unless you start it up and it still makes horrible noises. I have seen many failed Tdi belts at work and can't recall a single valve problem. I'd change the tensioner and the idler too as the bearing in that may not be far behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpk241 Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 1. Yes - the crank has the lipped pulley on it so a kit is fitted.2. Check pushrods and rockers, change as required (some pushrods will probably be bent - I take it the timing jumped and engine stopped rather suddenly?) but don't bother taking the head off unless you start it up and it still makes horrible noises. I have seen many failed Tdi belts at work and can't recall a single valve problem. I'd change the tensioner and the idler too as the bearing in that may not be far behind. Excellent BogM, top man. Hoping you would pick this one up .. Yes the timing jumped and it stopped, i did start it again for someone to listen to who as trying to help me diagnose. Is this likely to have screwed things up any more ? Didnt run it for long though ! Do you know what kit these are from the 'Big Kit' ot 'Little Kit' ? Many thanks TPK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Excellent BogM, top man. Hoping you would pick this one up .. Yes the timing jumped and it stopped, i did start it again for someone to listen to who as trying to help me diagnose. Is this likely to have screwed things up any more ? Didnt run it for long though !Do you know what kit these are from the 'Big Kit' ot 'Little Kit' ? Many thanks TPK No Idea sorry, not any way I am aware of to tell one kit from the other once fitted. The tensioner etc are the same though - just that the big kit included the timing case, FIP bracket etc as well as the pulleys and belt so you won't need to know which kit to order a new tensioner. Personally if it was me I would speak to Bearmach and get one of their STC4096K little kits these come with a better (cast lips not spot welded lips) crank pulley which is much more confidence inspiring, as well as belt and both tensioner and idler all of which you should change anyway - it is probably cheaper than getting all the bits separately. All you will probably need on top of that is a fist full of pushrods and you should be sorted. If it failed at idle you may have got away with 1 or 2 pushrods, most I have seen have failed at speed and can bend up to about 6 normally and 1 or 2 broken rockers. Also change all the valve rotator caps too BTW, these aren't in the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpk241 Posted May 4, 2007 Author Share Posted May 4, 2007 Thanks BM, Your previous tech posts on this help me no end ... Excellent Forum... TPK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 You are welcome This may be a good time to ask if you have read this and are feeling generous (if you haven't already of course!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tpk241 Posted May 8, 2007 Author Share Posted May 8, 2007 You are welcome This may be a good time to ask if you have read this and are feeling generous (if you haven't already of course!) BM, No problem as soon as I have got the expense of repairing the damage I will make a donation. Another question .. Do you know how I can identify the age of the engine as I dont know the VIN of the vehicle it came from and need to order some service items and oil seals that have early/late versions ? Thanks TPK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted May 8, 2007 Share Posted May 8, 2007 Do you know how I can identify the age of the engine as I dont know the VIN of the vehicle it came from and need to order some service items and oil seals that have early/late versions ? There isn't a hard and fast rule on this as the engines were not always fitted sequentially but in general terms the engine number sequence goes 16L00001A to 16L99999A, 16L00001B to 16L99999B, 16L00001C to the end which is about 16L10000C or so. There are different prefixes 18L, 21L, 23L and so on but I think the serial numbers very roughly go in order so you can hazard a very rough guess on that i.e. if your engine was say 16L02345A it would be a pretty early one. The other option might be LR Traceability who may be able to tell you the original vehicle it was fitted to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 13, 2007 Share Posted May 13, 2007 We change both idlers and the belt every 60 000 kms. Also the crank pinion if it is the LR OEM spot-rivetted one in favour of the Bearmach forged pinion. (The spot-rivetted plate can fall off and that is not good for your engine at all). If you do this it doesn't really matter if your casing is bent a bit. Mine is a very early 300tdi made in 1994 judging by the dates on the bits, registered Feb 95. The casing is bent all right but the belts last 60k. I have a milled hole in the front casing so that I can keep an eye on belt wear. Just to confuse the issue my engine in my Defender has a 21L suffix, which should mean it is for a Disco, but I reckon LR put the wrong motor in the box. There is no EGR which avoided me having to remove it! Still going well at 250 000 kms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.