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role cage queri and help.


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hi,

i brought a roll cage a few months back for the hybrid and went to fit it over the weekend so i could get all the mounts made before paint the chassis and stuff however it didn't quite go to plan.

pic one is of it when i offered it up. why over made it clearly didn't have a vehicle anywhere near it!!!

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I cut it about to make it fit slightly better, however on this, i discovered a little white patch of filler, slightly intreaged to why anyone would put filler on a roll cage, a safety item, i hit the cage all over to discover the maker has fillered up on 4 of the bends, the ones near the windowscrren lower part. I can see that the bend looks as though it has collapsed slightly, indented in and they have made it look better by fillering it in so it goes round again.

However,.

i gather this is not the best and the fact that the meta has deformed in means that the strength will not be the same.

Should i use this or do what i am thinking and just make a new front hoop as i have 14 metres of blue band so could easily make my own front one which shall also fit alot better than this one i have brought which has like a double bend on the front for some reason.

Pics of the filler and the smaller diameter of steel where it has clearly stretched.

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Also,

for the rear mounts, im using some 6 mm steel tread bar. Iv welded them twice on the top of the chassis, will i need to weld them on the sides of the chassis rail as well or should i just do it anyway as although i don't think it would move is there any reg on the exact mounting that it must be on all available welds/planes of chassis.

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Cheers

James

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James, who made the cage? Did you buy it new or second hand? If I saw any evidence of 'bodging' it'd set of lots of alarm bells as, if one area's a bit cr@p how do you know the rest is OK? Is he using decent tube? Is the Welding any good? etc. IMHO, if you've got the kit to make the cage do the whole thing yourself. It does take time but a bad cage is a lot worse than no cage at all and, as much of a bargin as the cage you've bought is, its not worth risking your life for it.

Re the rear mount, get some triangulation in there. If you roll the force will push it over like a parallelagram. Either webs or captivating the nuts and making it a solud box would do. In your situation I'd put two plates either side of the chassis rail that run up to the height of the mount, then plate the front and back to make a box above the chassis. I'd then have a flat mounting plate sitting on top of this which the cage'll bolt to with webs to stop it bending in tension (eg a big side hit on the cage).

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hi will, cheers

it was a new cage but the quy i brought it off made it so never used but looking at it nor am i either now!!!

it has been made of blue band steel. welding is ok, spoke with simon from x eng today about something elso but this and decided i am going to make my own front hoop and roof stays with the tube i have decided to make my own,.

As for rear mounts, il ad some extra suports so that it can't just collapse forward or back.

Cheers

James

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take a wire brush on a grinder to all of the welds - just in case whoever made decided you use filler there as well :unsure: personally I'd dump the front hoop and spend some time looking over the rest of the cage very carefully

junk the emissions stuff off the 2.8 as well and squeeze a nice big intercooler in there :)

I'd be tempted when you lift the cage off to re-do the chassis mounts, you know where the cage is going to land having fitted it once so get some cardboard on the case and do some templates. As Wills pointed out the mounts need to be boxed in or they will fold like a folding thing on a bad day out - whitepen the chassis where the new plates are going to sit and then brush it all back to nice shiny steel - it'll give the weld a fighting chance of doing its job and give you an easier time to boot

nice loader by the way :)

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