200TDi Defender timing belt

[Les Henson]

The following thread is the replacement of the timing belt (cam belt) on a 200TDi Defender - owned by Andrew Kennedy, member of this website. You don't really need any specialist tools other than a suitable torque wrench. Even the tools required are minimal - a metric socket set that goes up to 30mm, a metric spanner set, possibly a DIY puller, a pry bar/crow bar/big old screwdriver, thread locking compound, copper slip or similar metal-based grease, RTV sealant, and as always - a hammer.

If the crank pulley damper and sprocket are stuck, then you will need a suitable extraction tool to remove them. If you have the ability, then making your own extraction tools is very easy - some thick steel, a few bolts, and the ability to drill some holes is all you need.

The engine before you start work.

First you need to drain the cooling system - this is particularly difficult to do due to the lack of a drain tap anywhere. Even catching the coolant in a container is not easy. Place a container under the right side of the front diff and try to control the amount of flow from the bottom hose/water pump. Slacken the jubilee clip and ease the hose off a small amount so that the coolant leaks out, rather than it gushing everywhere.

While the system is draining, remove the top radiator hose, top intercooler hose, air filter housing, and bottom intercooler hose.

Viscous fan next. There's two holes in the water pump pulley that can be exploited with the correct tool. You also need a water pump spanner - these are are only about £6 and it's much better than knocking the viscous fan nut with a hammer and chisel.

The water pump pulley hook, and the spanner in position.

Note that the viscous fan is opposite thread, so from the front of the engine it will undo clockwise.

Once the fan is unscrewed, it can be removed on the alternator side of the engine.

Fan cowl next - it has two M5 nuts at the top, and sits in two guides on the bottom of the radiator, and one guide on the side close to the intercooler. With the two nuts removed, the fan cowl can be lifted out of the engine bay.

Plenty of room in front of the engine now.

Undo the two jubilee clips and remove the water pump elbow.

Tuck the bottom hose out of the way by the header tank.

While the water pump belt is still tensioned - slacken the 4 x 13mm bolts that hold the pulley to the flange of the pump.

Remove the alternator tensioner completely - 10mm bolt at the bottom, and 13mm bolt at the top.

Slacken the three bolts that secure the PAS pump, then both belts can be removed. Undo the 4 x water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley. Push the alternator away from the engine in order to gain access to the right hand water pump bolt.

Water pump next. The three bolts shown in this picture have a habit of rusting/seizing and can easily snap. If one goes, then a bit of sealant around the hole either side of the new gasket will prevent leaks. Otherwise the whole timing case has to be removed in order to remove the remains of the bolt.

The bolts are various lengths, so either make a saver card or keep them in order.

Nearly there - crankshaft pully and then damper next. The crank bolt is very tight, and either use a suitable way of locking the crank, or use the (not recommended) method described here.

Looks like someone used a hammer and chisel to undo the bolt in the past. This is a bad way to undo or tighten a bolt or nut.

Disconnect the fuel solenoid wire.

Place a 30mm impact socket on a breaker bar on the crank bolt. The bar end has to be under the drivers side chassis rail.

Turn the key in the ignition, so that the torque of the starter motor undoes the crank bolt. There will be a loud bang as the bolt lets go, and the starter will undo it a few turns. Remove the crank bolt and then undo the 4 x 10mm head bolts that hold the pulley to the damper.

Home made damper extractor. The holes in it are 75mm centre to centre, and the two bolts are hi-tensile M8 coarse thread bolts.

It's common for the nose of the crank to be in this condition.

Make a simple bolt saver to keep the timing cover bolts in order.

The usual oily mess inside the timing case.

There are timing pointers cast into the timing case. Put the crank bolt back in and turn the crankshaft clockwise until the woodruff key is in line with the pointer, and the camshaft timing pip is inline with it's pointer.

With the timing set, you should be able to slide a 9mm drill bit or correct locking tool through the injector pump hole and into a hole in the timing case.

The timing is now locked, and it's safe to remove the timing belt and tensioner. One bolt with a special washer holds the tensioner. Undo and remove it.

Remove and discard the tensioner, then lift the belt off the sprockets.

The parts required - timing belt, tensioner, timing cover dust seal, crankshaft front oil seal, timing cover gasket, and water pump gasket.

Place the new belt on the crank sprocket, and use some method of keeping it engaged on the teeth without damaging it.

Then up the right hand side and onto the camshaft sprocket - making sure that there is no slack.

Same again between the camshaft sprocket and Injector pump sprocket.

Any slack in the timing belt must only be between the injector pump and crank sprockets - this is where the tensioner will take up the slack.

Hook the new tesioner under the belt, make sure it fits over the peg on the right - this is the pivot point. Hand tighten the bolt - making sure the special washer is located in the centre of the tensioner wheel. Note the square hole - this is used to tension the belt.

Place a 13mm socket on the tensioner bolt, and the square end of a 1/2" drive extension bar on a torque wrench like this.

The belt tensioner should be torqued to 19nm/14lb ft and the tensioner retaining bolt should be 45nm/33lb ft.

Rotate the crankshaft two turns until the woodruff key on the crankshaft is once again inline with the pointer, the camshaft pip is inline with it's pointer, and the pin/drill bit will fit back in the injector pump sprocket.

Re- check the tensioner.

The new belt and tensioner fitted.

Clean the inside of the timing cover, remove the dust seal, lightly grease the new seal and it's housing, and then use a suitable method of pressing the new seal in. The end of a hub nut box spanner is the right size for this.

Remove all traces of old gasket from both the timing cover and housing. Then put a few blobs of RTV sealant, plus a bead of it around where the three long water pump bolts will go. Then put the new timing cover gasket on - making sure that it's on the two locating dowels and the holes in the gasket line up with all bolt holes. Replace the timing cover and tighten all the bolts.

The water pump bolts are generally in a poor condition where water has got at them. Clean them all and coat with copperslip, or in this case - nickel grease.

Alloy corrodes where it's exposed to water. This can quite easily be removed with a wire brush.

Put a thin bead of RTV sealant around the gasket face of the timing cover, then press a new gasket in place. Re-fit the water pump.

Clean the land of the cranshaft pulley and smear a little grease on it, then slide the damper back on - making sure it locates on the woodruff key.

Clean all traces of old thread lock fron the thread of the crankshaft bolt, then put a few drops of Thread lock on the thread and allow it to run round the thread.

Re-fit the bolt and tighten it to 270nm/199 lb ft.

Note also that i have cleaned and greased a small area of the damper - this is where the pulley fits on and will prevent it from rust seizing.

Clean and grease the back of the pulley like this.

Attach the pulley to the damper with the 4 x 10mm bolts, then hang the fan belt on the back of the pulley, and put the PAS pump belt on both the pump and crank.

Find some way of applying pressure on the PAS pump to tension it while you tighten the three 13mm bolts. Replace the alternator drive belt tensioner, and tension it like this while doing up the two bolts. Once the belt is tensioned - fullt tighten the water pump pulley bolts.

Put the cowling back on - making sure it's located in the three guides, then screw the viscous fan back on (anti-clockwise), put the water pump spanner on the nut and tap it a few times with a hammer to tighten it.

Bottom intercooler hose must be located so that it doesn't vibrate against anything.

Air filter next - bottom hose from the wing/snorkel intake.

Turbo pipe.

The top radiator hose - make sure that it can't vibrate against the edge of the fan cowling.

Re-fill the cooling system, reconnect the fuel solenoid wire and start the engine and allow it to idle. Keep an eye on the water level and top up as necessary. Allow the engine to run up to temperature and check for leaks.

Les.

[ciderman]

One other tip is to slacken the 3 bolts on the injection pump pulley when torqueing the belt tension , this will ensure the tension of the belt equally without pulling the pump timing out , After torqueing the belt and securing the tensioner tighten the 3 pump pulley bolts , then its safe to remove the timing pin .

[white90]

Jase

With the pin in the injection pump it is fully locked so the tensioning of the belt

can't affect it as the pin is an interference fit.

or is this just a precaution?

[ciderman]

Its to ensure that the distance of belt between the camshaft and the IP can be as equal tension to the distance between the IP , Tensioner and Crank shaft without slightly moving the crank and cam pulleys when the belt is tensioned . As sometimes an old belt can stretch .

[Les Henson]

There was no need to slacken the inj pump, the belt was a tight enough fit between the camshaft and injector pump sprockets.

Les.

[Kim Horsevad]

(...snip...)

The torque setting for the tensioner is 45nm/33 lb ft. While holding the tesion, tighten the centre bolt.

(...snip)

Les.

English is not my native language, so please excuse me if I have just misunderstood your excellent posting...

Have a 200tdi engine myself, and done the operation a number of times, I would like to point out that:

According to the Workshop Manual the bolt holding the timing belt tensioner shold be tigthned to 45nm, but the tensioner itself (timing belt tension) should only be 19nm for a new belt and 17nm for a used belt. (Workshop Manual 93/95MY, section 12, page 47)

The torque wrench with the square end inserted in the square hole on the tensioner should therefore read 17 or 19 nm while tigthning the tensioner bolt to 45nm with another torque wrench. The Workshop Manual recommends use of a dial type torque wrench - although I must admit I just use a normal one.

[white90]

300TDI is 15Nm-11ftlb for a new belt 12Nm-9ftlb for a used one.

don't have a 200TDI manual

[Les Henson]

You're quite right Kim. I'll edit the text. That'll teach me to do these threads at 1 in the morning.

Thanks.

Les.

[nicksmelly]

In the picture of the waterpump bolts, are they in the correct order on the floor. I changed my waterpump and forgot where they had come from, its now leaking oil all down the front of the timing cover... could this oil be going inside contaminating the belt?

Nick... the smelly one

[Les Henson]

Yes they are in the correct order Nick. There is only one that tends to be covered in oil - the one closest to the bottom radiator connection to the pump.

Les.

[nas90]

Well done Les, thats fairly properly fully sorted and job done!

Excellent write-up.

[nicksmelly]

Thats the one thats leaking... its dribbling down on to the bottom hose then off on to the diff... so the axle will never go rusty. Better sort it out now I know. Ta.

Nick... the smelly one

[Les Henson]

Take the bolt out, put some thread lock on the cleaned thread and put it back. The only way oil can get into the timing case is via the thread.

Les.