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discovery sills


cactus jack

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I have been doing some welding to the rear of the inner wheel arch in front the rear wheel, but discovered that the body mounting to inner sill was also rotten. I spent severn hours welding and fabricating this area, but noticed that the rest of the sill wasn't looking great. What does the mot require of these sills, being a discovery, it has a separate chassis of course, so the sills are not structural are they?? <_<

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I believe the sills are structural to the body. I replaced both of mine when I got the car as it had failed on the sills - there was very little metal left in mine, but I don't know how much corrosion is allowed...

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I have been doing some welding to the rear of the inner wheel arch in front the rear wheel, but discovered that the body mounting to inner sill was also rotten. I spent severn hours welding and fabricating this area, but noticed that the rest of the sill wasn't looking great. What does the mot require of these sills, being a discovery, it has a separate chassis of course, so the sills are not structural are they?? <_<

The sills ARE structural I am afraid - I am fairly sure of that.

In terms of how much rust is allowed - IIRC no perforations (when poked) within 12" (300mm?) of any mounting. (including seatbelt mountings)

Basically if you can poke holes anywhere in the sill then think seriously about replacing the whole thing. It's actually easier if you use some 120x60mm box section than it is to patch what's left of the existing one...

TwoSheds

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The sills are body structure and the 30cm within a body/chassis mount, seat belt mount, seat anchor point, or anything that may compromise the general strength of the vehicle. Any hole on the outside of the vehicle will fail even if it doesn't come into the above. It'll fail on sharp edges - which don't have to be welded, but can be covered with gaffer tape or similar to remove the sharpness. The tester may then press his hand on the side of the hole and drag it across to see if there is still any sharpness. It's worth mentioning that you don't have to copy the profile of the body - just weld a plate over whatever is rotten - the important thing being that you maintain the strength od the bodywork. I have replaced full sills on a Disco, and it's major work - requiring removal of all the seats and floor covering, plus seta belts, and the bottom of the B pillar (if you have a 4-door. The sill join is actually under the centre line of the seats.

Scary pictures:-

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It took me three days to replace the two sills, plus other welding work needed that you can see in the pictures.

Les.

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It took me three days to replace the two sills, plus other welding work needed that you can see in the pictures.

Les.

:o I've been six months on my RRC and I've just done one side :o

TS

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You're obviously doing a better job than I did then! :rolleyes:

Les.

So far I've used 4 rolls of welding wire (I am doing some other bits too - like re-building the front inner wing from - ooh - probably 20 separate pieces... :o

While on the topic of welding - what are the rules WRT seam versus tack?

I noticed that in the 'Shoestring' article in LRM they have tack welded the joints - some of the tacks are quite well spaced too...

But when I used to work in Bodgit & Scarper we started out doing tacks every inch, but then changed to seam welding everything on the advice of our local MoT man (perhaps he just didn't like the quality of my tacks? :) )

TwoSheds

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Les,

Nice pics. I'm looking to do the same on mine but its 2 door. Will I have to remove the outer rear wing?

Just started doing the whole rear floor.

Ya got to start somewhere!

Cheers

Bigbird.

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I've not replaced the sills on a 2-door, but as the sill ends at the rear wheel arch I wouldn't imagine you need to remove the outer rear wing. Same with the boot floor, although it's common for the rear floor corrosion to extend beyond the floor panel to the pillars and surrounding bodywork.

Les.

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First job I did on my disco when I got it was a new rear floor and both sills. The rear floor was completley rotten, as was a lot of the metal work around it, so it got a replacement panel from paddocks, replacement floor support members, and a number of fabricated parts for the rest of the floor.

This sills I repaired by cutting the bottom out of the sill as it was completely rotten, and welding in 3mm wall box section into the cavity, extending down to the position of the orginal sill. This gives a much stronger sill, and I am not scared by nast breakovers now - and I have tested them on more than a few occasions!

Sadly i don't have any pictures from this exercise, as I had 9 days to do floor, sills, suspension, bumpers, brakes and general servicing ready for a trip to wales.... :D

Enjoy, and wait till you have to do the inner wings too.... :)

Cheers

Mark

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If you are replacing a whole panel, then you can use the same as when the original panel was fitted (spot welds), if you are patching, then it has to be a seam weld.

Les.

Is correct.

But have a look at how the old panel was attached. Some are part seam welded & part spot.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Is correct.

But have a look at how the old panel was attached. Some are part seam welded & part spot.

Thanks for all the coments, I have now completed the welding and endless list of other jobs, and guess what, the mot is now passed!!!!!! (after five days hard work).

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