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Rear crank seal replacement


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Hi,

I'm planning on taking out the 200tdi next week to replace the rear crank seal which has been failing for about 2 years. At the same time I am going to replace the clutch and the thrust bearing & pivot. My three questions are as follows:

1/ What other things would you replace at the same time while the lump is out (if any)?

2/ What consumables will I need other than oil/water/antifreeze/Swarfega ?

3/ Is there a preferred sequence/M.O for the removal/refitting process?

Ta,

Ged

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I would advise you to buy a Gen crank rear seal - some aftermarket ones are a bit dodgy to be honest.

It might be worth fitting the 300TDi heavy duty clutch plate as well if you go off-road. Replace the clutch slave with a Gen item as well for the same reasons as the crank seal. A reinforced clutch fork is a must too as these things have a very bad habit of punching through at the pivot point inside the bell housing.

Les.

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hi ged,

might be worth gettin' a spiggot shaft bush, only 91p for a gen landy one. i only mention this cos i've just swapped the engine in mine and the one in the new lump was dodgy and they're impossible to get out without damage. i live in the middle of nowhere and had tried to foresee everything, hose clips, clutch kit and fork, new belts, loctite for flywheel bolts (and oil seal) etc, etc, used genuine seal and the installer and it still leaked :rolleyes:

good luck, paul

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hi ged,

might be worth gettin' a spiggot shaft bush, only 91p for a gen landy one. i only mention this cos i've just swapped the engine in mine and the one in the new lump was dodgy and they're impossible to get out without damage.

Are they like the V8 ones in a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft? If so stuff them full of grease, insert any old bit of round bar which is a reasonable sliding fit into the end of the bush and tap the bar through the bush with a hammer ... bush pops out under hydraulic pressure. So simple it's magic! :) Just remember to remove the grease afterwards!

AndyG

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Are they like the V8 ones in a blind hole in the end of the crankshaft? If so stuff them full of grease, insert any old bit of round bar which is a reasonable sliding fit into the end of the bush and tap the bar through the bush with a hammer ... bush pops out under hydraulic pressure. So simple it's magic! :) Just remember to remove the grease afterwards!

AndyG

tried that andy, hit it so hard that the grease detonated :blink: i have used this method many times with success but it does not seem to work so well on the bronze bushes. works without fail on ball races right enough and for 91p it's not worth the risk.

cheers, paul

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Thanks for all the advice - I have ordered new flywheel bolts just to be on the safe side. Has anyone got any specific advice/pearls of wisdom about fitting the new crank seal to avoid/reduce the likelihood of leakage? I've read Les' thread on the tech archive which seems to have all the necessary info.

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Be very careful about damaging the lip of the seal as it goes in - it can reverse itself, or try to and then split, which may go unnoticed. The seal will have an inner plastic guide to prevent this happening. It does make things a little more awkward, but it's worth it.

Les.

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slide the seal protctor over the end of the crankshaft, fit the new seal, then remove the seal protector, it stops the seal lip getting damaged on the crankshaft edge during fitting.

Thats if the seal is being fitted with the flywheel housing still in situ, if flywheel housing is loose then fit seal to housing with the protector still in the seal. Do NOT remove the protector from the seal, let the fitting push it thro.

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