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AAAAHHH Help please!!!


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Ok at easter my land rover 110 300tdi allisport intercooler etc... boiled up due to suspect blocked rad (bars fluid??) put Brand new Turner engineering performance head on brand new water pump brand new thermostat had the rad recored fully flushed the system fitted brand new pacet 16" electric fan and went to wales for the week towning the caravan (all up weight 4.5 tonnes!!) on the way there the temp went almost into the red and wouldn't come down until i was going down hill.. and had similer trouble up all hills except went to the edge of the white!! got back and dumped the electric and went back to the viscous now thrashed it down the road the temp only moves a couple of mill of normal but the viscous cut's in oh and the viscous is brand new the gauge is brand new and so is the sender!! HELP PLEASE!! before any of this kicked off you hardly ever heard the viscous cut in and it would never move on the gauge??? :blink::huh:

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I had a Electric fan on...fine with no weight on the back as soon as I put the Caravan on the back 15 miles and the head gasket had gone :angry:

You might have cooked it again I'm afraid , get a sniff test etc done...

I've gone back to a Viscous with no further trouble

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I had a Electric fan on...fine with no weight on the back as soon as I put the Caravan on the back 15 miles and the head gasket had gone :angry:

You might have cooked it again I'm afraid , get a sniff test etc done...

I've gone back to a Viscous with no further trouble

it starts no problem is using no water no oil there's no smoking surely i would have one of these problems if the head gasket had gone again??? and no excessive breathing out of the filler etc... :unsure:

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Did you follow the correct proceedure for fill a 300Tdi up.

Fill header tank with the radiator plug and the plug on the top of the thermostat housing off and the heater set to hot.

Fill at the thermostat housing until water flows out the top of the rad. Work the hoses to get rid of all air locks.

Fit plug into radiator.

Fill at the top of the thermostat until full. Again work hoses. Fit plug.

Fill header tank to level.

Road test.

HTH

mike

YES !! England is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

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Did you follow the correct proceedure for fill a 300Tdi up.

Fill header tank with the radiator plug and the plug on the top of the thermostat housing off and the heater set to hot.

Fill at the thermostat housing until water flows out the top of the rad. Work the hoses to get rid of all air locks.

Fit plug into radiator.

Fill at the top of the thermostat until full. Again work hoses. Fit plug.

Fill header tank to level.

Road test.

HTH

mike

YES !! England is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

yep did all that no problem with flow heater's warm as toast etc...

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when I rebuilt mine, and then had to do it again due to an incompetent machine shop the only syptom I had was a rapid build up of pressure in the cooling sytem, no loss of any fluid, no smoke

nothing...

No rise in temp....even during events

but the hose went solid in seconds after starting.....the sniffer test never picked it up either :blink:

only cured it by having the head skimmed and putting it all back together <_<

As many can prob remember drove me nuts for weeks :blink:

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when I rebuilt mine, and then had to do it again due to an incompetent machine shop the only syptom I had was a rapid build up of pressure in the cooling sytem, no loss of any fluid, no smoke

nothing...

No rise in temp....even during events

but the hose went solid in seconds after starting.....the sniffer test never picked it up either :blink:

only cured it by having the head skimmed and putting it all back together <_<

haven't got any excess pressure the only thing someone says to me is are the injectors faulty causing it to run a lean mixture???

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I had the same symptoms on a Pajero that Lesmond had on his truck. On a diesel engine it can pass the sniff test but still have a blown head gasket. If you have the awful placcy thermostat cap on, then I'd be surprised if it didn't snap off. I never bother to bleed it from there.

Les.

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Ok at easter my land rover 110 300tdi allisport intercooler etc... boiled up due to suspect blocked rad (bars fluid??) put Brand new Turner engineering performance head on brand new water pump brand new thermostat had the rad recored fully flushed the system fitted brand new pacet 16" electric fan and went to wales for the week towning the caravan (all up weight 4.5 tonnes!!) on the way there the temp went almost into the red and wouldn't come down until i was going down hill.. and had similer trouble up all hills except went to the edge of the white!! got back and dumped the electric and went back to the viscous now thrashed it down the road the temp only moves a couple of mill of normal but the viscous cut's in oh and the viscous is brand new the gauge is brand new and so is the sender!! HELP PLEASE!! before any of this kicked off you hardly ever heard the viscous cut in and it would never move on the gauge??? :blink::huh:

Are both the bleed hoses from the thermostat housing and rad clear? Do u get water circulating in the expansion tank from these pipes with the engine at fast idle? - take cap off and check.

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Are both the bleed hoses from the thermostat housing and rad clear? Do u get water circulating in the expansion tank from these pipes with the engine at fast idle? - take cap off and check.

The pipes are brand new that silly y'piece broke the housing was all cleaned checked etc.... i had water flow through everything that should have water through and it is still clean etc...

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Guest diesel_jim

I had a 300Tdi, kept overheating, pressurising the pipes, i borrowed Les H's sniff tester and that didn't show up anything, but i whipped the head off and it needed 17thou' off to get it true again.

was fine after that.

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I had a 300Tdi, kept overheating, pressurising the pipes, i borrowed Les H's sniff tester and that didn't show up anything, but i whipped the head off and it needed 17thou' off to get it true again.

was fine after that.

strictly speaking it's not overheating it never went completly in the red and solo it's only ever moving close to the end of the white the viscous is coping my point is it seem's to be running to hot in comparison to 'A' before said problems and 'B' in comparison to other people's, i do not have a problem with any pipes pressurising... :unsure:

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If you had air trapped in the system or poor circulation, then the engine would overheat regardless eventually. From what you've said I would point the finger at the radiator being partly blocked, but as you have a new core this seems unlikely. When the engine is up to temperture, do you have any cold areas on the radiator, or one of the heater hoses still cold? Unless you have restricted flow within the block or head itself the only things that could cause your problem is thermostat valve, cooling fan, or radiator.

The 300TDi engine is very efficient at cooling itself, DrGoon has been running his 300TDi CSW without any cooling fan for a few months now with no problems at all.

Les.

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I too have no cooling fan after chasing an overheating problem for weeks. My suggestion: lob a thermocouple in the header tank (£15 with a multimeter from Maplin), stuff a rag in the hole and go for a run to see if it's really getting hot - it could be the gauge that's lying to you. I bought a Racetech gauge (after changing nearly everything) and the problem just went away...

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I too have no cooling fan after chasing an overheating problem for weeks. My suggestion: lob a thermocouple in the header tank (£15 with a multimeter from Maplin), stuff a rag in the hole and go for a run to see if it's really getting hot - it could be the gauge that's lying to you. I bought a Racetech gauge (after changing nearly everything) and the problem just went away...

Now funny you should say that went up the road today and thrashed it being followed by Madmatt in his 130 (standard 300tdi engine) pulled up checked block temperature's mine 90degree's C his 100 degree's C my viscous was locked his wasn't he was running at 65 ish and i was running at 70 ish :rolleyes: his gauge was just under half way mine was just over half way!! what temp should the block be running at??? this is all confusing me!!! am i just getting paranoid!! might price up a VDO gauge at work today and change to that..... :huh:

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Swap temperature senders with MadMatt and see if you 'exchange' the problem.

Alternatively - wait until he's not looking and swap your engine with his. When he complains that his engine is now overheating as well, put it down to coincidence. :lol:

Les. :ph34r:

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Swap temperature senders with MadMatt and see if you 'exchange' the problem.

Alternatively - wait until he's not looking and swap your engine with his. When he complains that his engine is now overheating as well, put it down to coincidence. :lol:

Les. :ph34r:

Les don't give him ideas!! and as for 65ish yeah right o! i was over 70 for 3 parts of that run and you were going a dam site quicker than that!!! :D

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OK totally paranoid has anyone fitted a vdo temp gauge and sender?? any part no.s would help or the thread type etc.. of the sender would be nice please Thanks :wacko::wacko:

Found this way of mounting the VDO sender Here more screw thread info in the last replies :D

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