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Sills ... just in case


101nut
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Technically my 1972 Range Rover (2-door) sills didn't fail the MOT but the bodymounts did.

Looking at them I made the assumption that if I attempt to fabricate bodymounts and fit them it will

a) be a pain in the proverbials and

B) be like welding them to lacework ...

My assumption was that if the mounts are that rotten the inner sills are going to be horrible as well. I made outer skin sills a few years ago to patch them up so I've taken the leap and ordered inners and outers for both sides.

What do I need to know in advance. I'm aware that I may have to rebuild A and B pillar bottom ends. Am I correct in thinking the seats have to come out, the front and rear outer wings need removing and the fuel and brake lines need removing but that's all?

I assume I need to do one side at a time and tie the A pillar, B pillar and floor all together to preserve geometry or won't things move on a two door with the roof still in place?

I intend to chop out the sill as far as the new one goes, put new inner onto the (new) mounts then outer goes in place. Outer welds to A and B pillars and rear floor, inner welds along the bottom edge to outer and I assume puddle welds along the top edge to the outer ... bit of paint, put the seats back in and done ...

Or does someone know better?

I would have put a bit of box in (which has nice piccies in the tech area) but I need it done and I'll have to fabricate body mounts (with a vice and big 'ammer) (and which has no nice piccies or info!) and get it all aligned which will all take time!

AndyG

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Just done the remaining side of my four door EFi, so loads more to do than you.

I think you've pretty much covered it, no need to remove the rear outer wing though. Be prepared to be patching the front footwells and the rear floor.

Front footwells and rear floor were done a while ago so should be ok. I've now stripped out the floor/seats/fuel lines. Got one front-to-back brake union to seperate which I just know is going to shear when I touch it ... I have removed the rear wing as it obscures the back of the BC pillar and it seems a lot easier to get at with the wing removed, I think the front is just about ok left on ...

The new sills have the vertical upstand for the kick panel under the rear seat (early type). I think I'm cutting that off as the existing ones are good and fixed with about 5 million spot welds to the BC pillar and rear floor - just drilled out the spots onto the existing sill and I'll puddle-weld back onto the new one. I find the new sills don't have the reinforcing angle that the floor fixes to so had to buy that extra (more money!)

About to attack things with a grinder - going to support the rear floor with a lump of timber onto the chassis just in case it tries to move. Everything else seems relatively solid. I still can't see how the old sill is coming out (ok, I can, in very small bits!) or more to the point how the new one goes back in ... there doesn't seem a lot of room to manoeuvre the sill about or maybe it'll be better once the old one is out ...

AndyG

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I've done both sides and never found the need to support the floor or anything else, it would appear that the body shell is somewhat over engineered!

Once you get the wreckage out of the way it'll all become clear, it looks to be far easier ona 2 door than a 4, the B pillar bottom makes puttin ghte outer sill into place very awkward, whereas on your 2 door you don't have that obstacle.

The Haynes 'Range Rover Restoration' manual has a pretty good write up of the job.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I've done both sides and never found the need to support the floor or anything else

I agree. Unless you're climbing in and out or something equally daft, it all more or less stays in place in my experience.

I recommend inner and outer sill sections from Paddock and you'll have the job done in a day.

BUT...

Check your dimensions with a tape measure incase during use there has been some distortion as the integrity of the shell has been compromised. My mate's 2-door had and we had to jack the body up into shape with a bit of wood. Once the new sill was tacked in it was all right as ninepence.

Best of luck :)

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I agree. Unless you're climbing in and out or something equally daft, it all more or less stays in place in my experience.

I recommend inner and outer sill sections from Paddock and you'll have the job done in a day.

BUT...

Check your dimensions with a tape measure incase during use there has been some distortion as the integrity of the shell has been compromised. My mate's 2-door had and we had to jack the body up into shape with a bit of wood. Once the new sill was tacked in it was all right as ninepence.

Best of luck :)

I got my bits from Beamends Spares. Managed to cut one sill out (mostly) before (somehow) smacking myself in the mouth with a crowbar followed by a visit to A&E as I'd put my top teeth through my bottom lip and broke off a front tooth! But, like the six-million-dollar-man, dentists can rebuild them! :)

Next attempt this weekend ... assuming it doesn't chuck it down again ...

AndyG

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