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bosch fuel injector pump


stripy
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i have to take my f.i.p. off of my 200 tdi defender 90, i have got the timing pin kit which has a ip gear locking tool,

having never taken a ip pump off before, has anyone done a step by step guide on how to .

i changed the belt in feb but would change again if i have to.

do i have to do anything to keep the pump timing right ? or is it set with the pin ?

cheers john

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Disconnect the fuel cut off switch (single spade connector at the rear of the inj pump. undo the 4 injector pipes (17mm spanner), and disconnect both fuel lines and boost pipe. Tie the fuel lines above the filter or quite a bit of fuel will self-syphon out. Remove the fan belts, water pump, crank pulley, timing cover. Set the engine in the timing position and remove the belt.

Once you have removed the timing belt put the pin in the inj pump hole to keep the sprocket still and undo the centre nut (19mm I think). The sprocket is a taper fit on the inj pump shaft and there is also a small woodruff key. Best way to seperate the sprocket from the shaft is to undo the nut a few turns, slacken the three nuts that hold the inj pump to the rear of the timing case and the bracket at the back that supports the inj pump to the engine block, apply some leverage to the back of the sprocket with a pry bar or screwdriver, then give the nut a sharp rap with a hammer. When the sprocket lets go, undo the nut and spring washer and remove the sprocket. Remove the three nuts at the back and the rear fixing. The pump should just lift away. It doesn't matter if you lose the inj pump timing - as long as you put the pin back in it's locating hole (which is in the body of the pump), you will be putting it back in it's timing position. There's a thread in the tech archive for replacing the timing belt on a 200TDi Defender, so you can refer to that when you come to reassemble it all.

What's wrong with your pump?

Les.

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Last time my 200Tdi's fip came off the engine, I gained access to the timing case [as per timing belt change] set the timing pin & used the locking pin on the fip's right side [not your right] removed the rear brackets/fuel lines/electrical connection, then removed the timing gear pulley/plate/bolts x 3 & the 3 nuts that secure it to the timing case rear face, then with drew it from the timing case off the 3 studs, I've never had to remove the big nut or the sprocket bit [as Les calls it]

IIRC if this big nut & other bit is removed the pumps internal shaft is not secured 7 can move inside the fip case.

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Warning! Do not remove the flange and nut . Unless you are changing the front seal on the ip. To just remove the pump take the belt pulley off by undoing the 3 m8 bolts . The pump will pass back through the timing chest this way. There is no woodruff key on the taper , you have to lock the pump by removing the lock bracket first .

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I believe 300TDi has no woodruff key, but the 200TDi has. The sprocket on a 300TDi has the cut out for a woodruff key, but the shaft doesn't (perhaps it's the same item as a 200TDi?). I've only ever replaced TD/N/A and 300TDi inj pumps, so Ciderman may be right.

Les.

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I do know that the 200Tdi pump has no Woodruff key or a fitting for it.

Do it as Western says. Take it off with the timing sprocket.

No sprocket no pump timing. LOL

mike

YES !! England is a free country. As long as you do as you are told.

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What's wrong with your pump?

Les.

when i start from cold it gives a rev about the same as if i were holding the throttle down by 1/4. apart from that its fine, its ok when hot.

i have run the engine on bio for 2 yrs & think the seals have swolen or are disintergrating....perhaps

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, you have to lock the pump by removing the lock bracket first .

any piccys , is the lock bracket the ring with 3 bolts in it? how do i lock it ? with my gear lock tool ?

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i know how to, and where to put the locking pins, but how do i keep the pump locked when its off , or dont i lock the pump , do i lock the cam wheel to keep the pump timing, or is it just a matter of pulling it apart & when i'm putting it back together once the pump and cam wheel are together put the locking pin in and turn it untill it pops into the pump .

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Sorry Stripy I cant find any piccys and both my Landys are at work , So I will try my best to describe .

1, Lock the pully in place with your timing pin .

2. Undo the 10mm spanner size bolt (IIRC) which is situated on the Right hand side of the pump on the housing near to the front flange (It has a small fork Yoke type bracket bellow the bolt)

3. Slide out the fork bracket

4. Tighgten the lock bolt back in so it pinches up the shaft tight

5. Now it is safe to remove the front flange with the aid of a suitable puller .

The installation is the same in reverse .

Hope this helps , I will try and get some pics tommorrow if your still not sure .

Jase.

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