wibbly wobbly speedo

[western]

no at all, if it works OK. there may be a internal fault in the speedo which is preventing it working as it should.

[Dads Toy]

One final question - honest.

What is the Temperature gauge part number for the Td5 panel? I have YAD 100900 but can't find what it fits.

Malcolm

[CwazyWabbit]

I have two here both with the same number on Malcolm

EDIT: Says here http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=135785 it's for chassis number XA onwards ... which I assume is TD5

[western]

that's the correct number, normally some on ebay, they are around 160 quid new from LR.

[Mo Murphy]

Ross/Malc, the fuel level wire goes through the Speedo fuel level damping circuit. The temp wire goes straight to the gauge from the sender.

HTH

Mo

[landroversforever]

I don't know if the fuel gauge does (I assume it does), but the temperature gauge definitely needs to go through the speedo. This is the difference between the standard TD5 speedo loom and the ROW spec one which. By running the temp sender through the speedo, it uses the 'magic' inside to make the gauge read correctly for the 300tdi sender.

Have a read of James' blog: http://www.retroanac...a-200tdi300tdi/ Part 1.

EDIT: the above is assuming you are using the full (Speedo + temp + fuel) set of gauges from the TD5 binnacle.

[Dads Toy]

Now I'm confused

When I put the temp through the speedo via the wiring mod to ROW spec it doesn't register on the gauge (just comes off the stop on ignition ON)

When I wire it direct from sender to gauge I get what looks like the correct indication.

The fuel gauge (via the speedo) shows similar level to the old one.

Maybe I've just lost my 'magic' in the speedo.

Malcolm

[landroversforever]

Sorry if I'm teaching granny to suck the proverbial eggs, but you have put it in the correct pins on the speedo plug?

The other thing, you say it just moves off the stop, I assume the engine is actually up to temperature? my 200tdi sits just under vertical on the temp gauge normally

[Mo Murphy]

If it looks ok Malcolm use it. If you can't get a reading by running it directly OR through the Speedo (dim, dark recesses of memory now recall inbuilt resistor ) then 55 ohms of resistance in the wire from the sender to the gauge will give the correct reading (cut wire, solder in resistor, heat shrink).

Mo

[Dads Toy]

I used the wiring mod from this thread - i even got all the correct coloured wires plus the correct connector to match up with the instrument harness. Double treble checked the pins plus used a meter to check they ALL terminated correctly.

I'll have another play over the next few days and thanks for all the suggestions.

Beginning to think maybe the 'magic' is missing from the speedo. It only had 4 miles on it when I bought it so maybe they forgot to put any in at the factory and that's why it was sold.

With all the help from the experts here, I'll get there - the rest of the instruments work fine. Although I've yet to do the warning light panel, I've already checked all the led's work so it should be just a wiring swap.

Malcolm

[Dads Toy]

OK a few days playing and not sure I'm getting anywhere

The good news - the warning light panel went well and everything there works fine.

The bad news is that I'm still stuck with the temp gauge. Checked and metered the wiring mod and that's fine, borrowed another speedo and same result - temp gauge only just gets off the blue square when warm. Doesn't even get to the white arc!

Bought a genuine LR temp sender and still the same although if I short the sender from the tip to the base/block then I get full deflection on the gauge.

This suggests to me the circuit is working but the sender is either not getting hot enough or it's got too much resistance.

Whilst under the bonnet I noticed that the top hose doesn't seem to be getting very hot ( I can easily hold it). Took off the stat bleed cap and fired the engine - got spurt of water which suggests the pump is OK.

Beginning to think the stat might not be opening - does this sound reasonable?

Is the sender before or after the stat? i.e. if the stat doesn't open then does the sender only get heat from conduction from the head?

If not the stat then have I got an airlock?

Not quite despairing but getting close.

Malcolm

[cieranc]

Just a quick note here, I followed RetroAnaconda's guide to the wiring.

I already had a VDO Vision temp gauge and matched sender fitted.

Because of this, it wasn't necessary to alter anything at the speedo plugs, and as a bonus the wiring harness was a direct fit for the VDO gauge, so it plugged straight in.

Gauges all working OK, but a tiny problem with the warning lights: I can't get the glow plug light to work.

I've got a 12v feed from the glow plug relay that switches on and off with the relay, but when connected to the warning light, it only illuminates for a split second when I turn the ignition on, then goes off. The relay/glow plugs works as they should.

I'm sure I've got the right wire (yellow/black). It's the only one at the dash that powers on and off with the glow plug relay output. It was previously wired to the choke light on my old dash (200TDi, formerly a 2.5 petrol).

Any ideas gents ?

[Mo Murphy]

Sounds like the warning light is connected to the switching feed for the relay rather than the output to the glow plugs.

HTH

Mo

[western]

glow plug light seems to go out extremely fast even before the timer click can be heard.

glow plug light

now got it to come on full brightness, but it won't go out when engine started/timer shuts off any ideas ???

Had more success today, found out why the glow plug warning light wasn't working properly, ---- duff glow plug timer relay, fitted a new one & the warning light goes off as it should do before the engine is started.

I had a similar glowplug light fault, a new timer relay cured it,

[Les Brock]

Starting my wiring on Sunday/Monday, get ready for some stupid questions coming chaps

[cieranc]

Thanks gents. Just to clarify, the Yellow/Black wire is dead, goes live when the ignition is turned, and goes dead again when the glow-plug relay cuts out (about 10 seconds IIRC).

So I reckon that its a relay output rather than a feed, and that the relay is working (it cuts in and out as it should).

The light comes on when the ignition is turned on, but for less than a second, then it goes straight off again. Leave the ignition on and I hear the glow plug relay cut out.

Ralph, is this the same problem you had? If so, I'll get a new relay.

[western]

Yes, sounds just what mine was doing, came on with ign then went out after about 1 sec, much to fast, replaced the timer relay & now it takes around 4 to 5 secs, just been out & timed it for you.

[cieranc]

Cool, thems the same symptoms with the light. The relay itself appears to be working OK, it powers the plugs for about 8-10 seconds.

I'll find another relay out and try that.

Digging back through this thread (I found a post of mine from 2009, when I started this project), I see others have fitted a relay to reverse the polarity of the glow plug feed, making it a negative to the warning lamp. Is it necessary to go down this route?

[western]

my timer relay was working OK except for the dash light, didn't do the neg feed to mine,it works fine as is, shouldn't be any need to reverse the fed polarity, I did it for the amber check engine light [MIL] to let me use it as a winch power ON reminder light, sure you weren't reading that bit.

I don't remember anyone else using a reverse polarity feed in this conversion.

[cieranc]

OK thanks Ralph.

This afternoon while I had some time to burn (back at work tomorrow), I had a go again with the power probe.

If I put a live to the glow-plug light, it flashes once then goes out, exactly the same as the way I've got it wired in the vehicle.

If I put an earth to it, it lights properly.

So with this in mind, I wired up a relay to switch the polarity. For no other reason than I have a realy and wire but don't have a new glow-plug relay.

It works perfectly with the polarity reversed.

So...... now I'm wondering, is there a later glow-plug relay that sends the output as an earth rather than a power?

Or perhaps I've wired it up the wrong way around?

On my original loom plug, there's 2 Yellow/Blacks on adjacent terminals, one is powered with the relay output (the one I've reversed polarity on) and the other is an ignition live. This looks original.

That's not to say the wiring hasn't been bodged further back, there's loads of scotch locks/choccy blocks behind the dash which I've been removing and repairing the loom as I find them.

[western]

or maybe your missing the timer units earth connection ?

[cieranc]

I'll check that when I get the time, back in work tomorrow so it'll be a week or so now.

Do you mean the main earth to the relay or the yellow/black output to the dash lamp?

Does your yellow/black switch an earth?

So many questions, so little time!

[western]

the black earth from relay to rest of wiring loom & the terminal in relay socket, my wiring from timer to dash is standard 1989 110.

in the Td5 warning light wiring, the glowplug wire is Black/yellow trace NOT Yellow/black trace, just dug my notes out I used to wire my dash in.

are you sure you have the correct wire.

also found some more info that IIRC JST drew up regarding the warning light pack, it says glowplug warning light is negative feed, the list [the blue type & hand written notes are mine]

[cieranc]

Ahhh I'll check that out! This glow-plug relay was fitted as an after thought, when the engine was changed. So the wiring isn't original.

Thanks for the tip, I'll report back.

On another note, I see some are using ABS, TC, EML lights for handbrake, winch and other warnings.

I peeled the front off a spare panel, it's basically a clear bit of plastic, painted black, with the relevent symbols etched out of the paint.

Which got me thinking, is this something a sign writer could make easily enough, with custom symbols?

There's a whole range of symbols to copy from, such as from the Carling or Durite catalogue.

[western]

You could possibly make a new icon diagram for the panel, I use my amber ABS [as my 110 doesn't have ABS & I wanted it seperate from the brake fail red light] light as my Hand brake ON light, IIRC I posted how it was connected within this thread.

normally the red brake fail light doubles as hand brake on & brake fail & brake fluid loss or PDWA switch operated depending on the age of the parent vehicle