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wibbly wobbly speedo


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Its a britpart replacement switch, pre-td5 era, mounted next to the drivers right knee. It appears to have stopped lighting up, there's quality for you.

In the end I took a feed from the black/red at the hazard switch, but I was curious what everyone else was doing. Retroanaconda makes no reference to the hazards

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OK - on the switch that you have, in addition to the 8-way connector on the back (only 7-ways used), you also have 2 x small spade terminals (1 on each side of the switch).

These are the live and earth (Black/Red and Black) for the flashing 'Hazard' illumination in the switch, as well as the instrument warning lamps 'Hazard' symbol.

The Black/Red wire for this, comes from pin-1 in the main hazard switch connector.

On 300Tdi and earlier, it loops back to one of the switch's side terminals.

On 1999 - 2001 TD5 vehicles, it also goes off to the instrument warning lights.

If your switch isn't illuminating - check that the side terminals are connected - pulling the switch forward tends to dis-connect them.

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Got it back out of the garage after the winter maintenance/upgrade today and took it for a test drive - it was great!

Thanks to Retroanaconda and all the contributors to this thread, you provided invaluable assistance :)

A further question - is it possible to zero the mileage on the speedo head? It's showing a lot more than the car has actually done

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Got it back out of the garage after the winter maintenance/upgrade today and took it for a test drive - it was great!

Thanks to Retroanaconda and all the contributors to this thread, you provided invaluable assistance :)

A further question - is it possible to zero the mileage on the speedo head? It's showing a lot more than the car has actually done

Send CwazyWabbit a PM

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hi guys, long time lurker here! first time post lol

ive just bought myself full dash and loom, happy about fitting it but just wondering if there was a definitive way to adjust the mileage. i need to add 110k!! i dont have software for programming chips etc etc and dont fancy running a drill for 70days lol

thanks in advance for your help

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Send Mr CwazyWabbit a PM with the details & I'm sure he will be able to help sort it for you, Think I just commented on your post in the facebook group to, I got mine increased by Digidash a few years ago, took around 3 days including post travelling time eachway.

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a few daft questions,

how do you remove the pins from the grey end td5 dash loom? not cutting them as per retroanacondas guide as i bought correct grey connector from paulmc.

also is there a guide to crimping/soldering the new pins? not something ive done before and would like to do it properly

thanks

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a few daft questions,

how do you remove the pins from the grey end td5 dash loom? not cutting them as per retroanacondas guide as i bought correct grey connector from paulmc.

also is there a guide to crimping/soldering the new pins? not something ive done before and would like to do it properly

thanks

This is a similar male connector on a D2 body/roof harness.

The procedure is exactly the same for the 14-way male connector on the TD5 Defender's instrument harness.

In this picture, I'm pointing with the jeweller's screwdriver to the LGW and GN wires (as these are the two that I'll be releasing) -

DSC03426a.jpg

Pointing to the secondary terminal lock that needs to be opened before you can remove any terminals -

DSC03427a.jpg

Carefully lever it up, from either side. Both sides now opened -

DSC03428a.jpg

Once the rear has been levered-up, it will slide out of the way.

The 'fingers' on the front of the secondary terminal lock, slide in above each terminal in that row and stop the terminal retaining latch from lifting and releasing the terminal -

DSC03429a.jpg

Front of the connector.

On the top row, because the secondary terminal lock has been opened, you can see through the connector over the terminal retaining latches above each terminal - the terminal retaining latches can be lifted to release a terminal.

On the bottom row, where the secondary terminal lock is closed, you can't see through the connector and would not be able to lift the terminal retaining latch to release a terminal.

DSC03430a.jpg

Pointing to the terminal retaining latch above the LGW wire's terminal.

A jeweller's screwdriver, or a safety pin can be used to lift the terminal retaining latch, whilst pulling gently on the wire you wish to release.

Make sure that you're lifting the tab above and pulling on the same terminal -

DSC03431a.jpg

LGW wire's terminal released and being removed from the connector -

DSC03432a.jpg

Male terminals removed -

DSC03434a.jpg

Male terminals inserted into the connector and secondary terminal lock closed -

DSC03435a.jpg

DSC03436a.jpg

DSC03437a.jpg

DSC03438a.jpg

The procedure is the same for the 14-way female connector that I sold you.

The female terminals should be crimped in the same way as the male terminals.

.

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thats fab paul!!!!! is there a special crimping tool for those connectors??

There is Sumitomo tooling - but, it costs a small fortune :o

I use this (which also wasn't cheap) -

DSC02529a.jpg

DSC02527a.jpg

You can buy a cheaper tool on eBay.

Any of these will crimp these Sumitomo 090 terminals -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251268499824

PA09-KGrHqJHJEMFJHtUloZBSWcHjTw60_57.jpg

PA09-KGrHqVk8FJBk03D63BSWHZRK3rQ60_12.jp

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261110204270

PA20-KGrHqZl4FJZb6HRR9BSornj5Fg60_57.jpg

PA20-KGrHqNq0FEI1kZSbSBSWHo7eCf60_12.jpg

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251174268242

PA21-KGrHqVHJFFJi9MVfYBS6ZwV-g60_57.jpg

PA21-T2eC16ZHJHMFHe8jNJEBSWH4lzw60_12.jp

I don't (yet!) have any of the above - but, I do have one of these -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191345846654

Hozan-P-706-_12.jpg

Hozan-P-706-_58.jpg

Hozan-P-706-_59.jpg

Not cheap, but very versatile.

These Hozan crimpers will crimp almost every type of terminal you'll find in the connectors used on late model Land Rovers.

I've used them to make perfect crimps on -

MQS sealed (TD5 horns, side repeaters)

MQS unsealed (TD5 clock, Tdci instrument connectors)

040" Multilock (TD5 instrument warning lights connectors)

070" Multilock (switch connectors)

090" Sumitomo unsealed (TD5 14-way instrument harness connector, hazard warning lights switch connector, 20-way circuit headers)

090" Sumitomo sealed (TD5 main/engine/chassis harness interconnects, Denso alternator connector)

070" Econoseal (NAS lamp connectors)

Junior Timer & Junior Power Timer - sealed and unsealed

As well as several other types of terminal.

The only down-side of the Hozan tool, is that it's only available from Japanese sellers.

They all ship to the UK - but, that's where it can get messy :huh:

You'll get mugged for Import VAT, which is charged at 20% on the cost of the item and the shipping charge :mellow:

You'll also get charged a 'Handling Fee' by Royal Mail/Parcel Force, to cover them collecting duty on behalf of HMRC/UKBA

If you're lucky, your parcel will be 'handled' by Royal Mail, as they only charge £8.50 for their 'service' :angry:

If you're unlucky, it'll be 'handled' by Parcel Force, who charge £13.50 for their 'service' :angry2:

.

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  • 3 months later...

Good Morning !

i am a on going project that consists in fitting a TD5 Discovery Body, into a full chassis 200tdi (engine, gearbox etc).

everything was going 100% sucess, but now we arrive at the part of putting every dial and light on the td5 dashboard to work.

i have been reading this forum for a few days, and since i am nothing like a full grown mecanic or eletrician , can someone make a small explication on what i have to do ?

i have kepted all the wiring lom from the TD5 and want to connect all the "old" components from the 200tdi to this loom :)

all the bit and pieces of the 200tdi are avaiable off course :) i had the 2 full cars (exept td5 mecanic part)

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  • 2 months later...

well finally got round to fitting clocks and panel today ! clocks working fine thats good news.

bad news is nothing from warning panel!

couple of questions,

1. can you put the teeny .40 connectors in wrong? i had a right faff getting them all in, some of them seem to bend the plastic in the connector making it really difficult to slot in a pin next to it.

2. when bench testing the warning lights, will i need to put live to both pins 20/16 and 16/1 for it to work? then obvoiusly live to various pins to test.

cheers

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