Jump to content

the bulkhead... how rotten can it get.


Recommended Posts

Got everything nicely running on the 110 and knew I had a couple of patches to bulkhead and small ones on the outriggers to do before the MOT. However, further investigation has revealed the passenger footwell needs a fair bit of sorting and with the double skin business it seems like a right royal pain. The top corners will also both need doing.

I am wondering whether it is worth doing/getting the repairs done or 'just' swap the bulkhead for a good one. I have today tackled my first welding job on the outrigger which seems to have gone well, but the rest of the work on the bulkhead seems a daunting prospect especially as the rotten bits are in hard to get to places.

Any suggestions. Is there a guide to replacing these double skin footwells somewhere?

Just as I thought I had nearly finished :rolleyes:.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what mine looked like before we repaired it all.

we took the front doors complete with hinges off, the front screen assembly, front underscreen vents & thier seals.

the repair plates were mig welded on & sit right upto the outer hinge of the front vents,the bonnet hinge outer edge & just above the front wing top horizontal surface.

my 110 looks much better now, just the final paint finish to do in the correct colour.

the rust damaged wasn't as bad as I expected, just some bits to do on the footwells next time.

post-20-1181323214_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323235_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323360_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323390_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323428_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323459_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323489_thumb.jpg

post-20-1181323530_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ralph. Mine is heading the same way although not 'quite' as bad yet. I attacked the footwells last night and am still working out how to convert from double to single skin. Also that outer skin and bit where the floor panels attach is sooo thin - my welding may need more practice!!

Does the MOT require both skins to be solid or just one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what mine looked like before we repaired it all.

we took the front doors complete with hinges off, the front screen assembly, front underscreen vents & thier seals.

the repair plates were mig welded on & sit right upto the outer hinge of the front vents,the bonnet hinge outer edge & just above the front wing top horizontal surface.

my 110 looks much better now, just the final paint finish to do in the correct colour.

the rust damaged wasn't as bad as I expected, just some bits to do on the footwells next time.

Hi first post in defender forum. Have you got any pics of the finished job. Any ideas why they rot around the bonnet hinge brackets?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi first post in defender forum. Have you got any pics of the finished job. Any ideas why they rot around the bonnet hinge brackets?

Can post some after pics later, my bonnet hinge areas are fine, we just used the outer edge to be the finish junction for the repair, hopefully to make it look good.

it's the top door hinge areas that rot, I haven't seen any with rotten bonnet hinge areas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can post some after pics later, my bonnet hinge areas are fine, we just used the outer edge to be the finish junction for the repair, hopefully to make it look good.

it's the top door hinge areas that rot, I haven't seen any with rotten bonnet hinge areas.

Unlucky me then, Ive got rot starting around the bonnet bracket and under the bonnet below the bracket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With brand-new TD5 bulkheads still available for around £165 how much welding would you want to do? The later items fit with a little modification and if correctly rust-proofed before fitting (i.e Waxoil), they should last 20-years or more before any repairs are required.

The trouble with a rotton bulkhead is that the more you strip it down and poke around, the more rot you will find and believe me, you will never find it all. Have you checked the top rail (under the windscreen) as this is a paticular trouble spot and usually you don't see it until the frame is removed when it becomse horribly evident.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, checked & repaired the screen base rail, just 2 very small bits there, screen & it's frame & front doors were removed to do these repairs, [see last 2 pics in my first batch of pictures] I don't have the time to do a bulkhead change, need to use my 110 every other day & weekends for rally recovery duty & other volunteer work, I'd love a new bulkhead & get it galvanised but can't have the 110 off the run for that long.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I was confident I could weld to any standard, I would probably go for the repair option for the short term (especially as my workshop is the front drive), however I am a novice welder and it would only be short term because the rust is bound to reappear and doing a job twice niggles me. As I will need to remove the front wings and screen to do this, how much more work is it to swap the bulkhead and have a longer lasting fix.

Litch hits the issue straight on. If I can get a good used bulkhead for £80 (+paint), why bother repairing if it is not much more work to replace.

So, is replacement a real PITA when compared to repairing (both top corners, near side toprail and one footwell)? I have seen the thread where time taken to replace varies from 1 - 6 days. Anyone care to fine tune this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

having done both the repair and replace options in the past on different vehicles i am now very much of the replace approach. just got a new td5 LR genuine bulkhead for £175, which has now been painted and is awaiting waxoyl.

i reckon its near enough the same amount of time to strip down and old one and replace with a new on as it is to repair an old one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JST, your answer regarding time was what I wanted to hear as I think it is probably the 'correct' route as I plan to keep the vehicle and would prefer not to have to revisit this problem later. So, off I go to buy a bulkhead!!

As a matter of interest, what did you pay to get it sprayed?

Thanks for everyones input. Some very impressive repair work. I think I will need to practice a bit more with the welder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before you paint the bulkhead why not galvanise it and then paint and waxoil it to make extra sure you never have to revisit the problem.

Good idea but galvanised bulkheads often distort from what I've heard. There was a company making galvanised Series II bulkheads IIRC but they found distortion to be too much of a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my theory on not galvanising was that they seem to last 20 years or so anyway so i just painted mine. cheapest way woudl prob have been some mixed paint from Hickery Valtone and spray the bits you can see vehicle cover and then just prime and spray the rest any old colour. However i got a local spray guy to do it, cost £100 all in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy