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Replacing rear x member on a 90


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Few pics on here of my bro's 90 so you can see whats involved. I got plenty of welding practice :ph34r: well im not going to do it on my car am i :D

http://www.orrp.com/smf/index.php?topic=34378.0

Check the dimensions of the new one vs one on there.

When I helped JW weld his new one on the qyuality was disgusting and the dimensions applalling out.

Also many of the aftermarket cr*p crossmembers could do with sitting down and welding them up properly as JW did before we shoved it on his Landy. Check also the recovery points / holes / tubes are tghere, much easier than when on it

Have had a peek at your thread you are pointing to

Have to say the welding is um, ......how can I say this without being rude ?......erm ........."interesting" .......

post-22-1181250650_thumb.jpg

Use 3mm plate on the OUTside, up the amps and reduce the wire speed, you'll find it easy to weld up, use the thick edge of the 3mm to have the torch on more then the thinner chasiss, and then you will find you can get a good solid weld

Hope you don't mind the above - all done in genuinely helpfull sort of way :)

Nige

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fisha changed one on his Dad's 90 IIRC - took a lot of pics and did his usual thorough write up.

If he doesn't see this send him a PM.

Hi,

IIRC when I did mine on my last 90, the wiring loom is threaded through the RH chassis section so be careful how you cut off the old one so you don't damage it. I can't remember how I pulled min back (it was a while ago).

The welding was fairly straight forward as the joint comes where the chassis "dips" below the rear floor so you can actually get round all four sides of the box (with a little care).

Hope this helps.

Scrumps

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Hi,

IIRC when I did mine on my last 90, the wiring loom is threaded through the RH chassis section so be careful how you cut off the old one so you don't damage it. I can't remember how I pulled min back (it was a while ago).

The welding was fairly straight forward as the joint comes where the chassis "dips" below the rear floor so you can actually get round all four sides of the box (with a little care).

Hope this helps.

Scrumps

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First of all that is 3mm plate. with a fillet edge to ensure penetration.yeah the wire speed may have needed a tweak but im not claiming to be a professional. the current was border line blowing holes. the surrounding material is so wasted to behonest its the strongest part of it.

in fact i do mind you posting the picture and would prefer you asked permission before you slag me off.

and how can i put this... Go fornicate your self with an rusty iron rod

FFS

Calm down

I was neither slagging you off nor having a go at you

Yep wire speed is one thing etc, but on thin metal as this obviously is (ie rusted thinner) a 3mm on the outseide helps a hell of a lot than as you have done on the inside.

But as you seem to have taken the hump for some reason we will leave it there and I won't bother trying to help, you carry on doing it your way

Nige

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EH ? :blink:

looks to me like some people need to get some thicker skin :ph34r:

I think if you are willing to show off what you yave done you must be willing to take some crititism as well as complement.

personally my advice would be buy a better quality second hand chassis to start with it will work out cheaper :rolleyes:

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I sure there must be legal ramifications for that action

Absolutely.

Welding with the blunt end of a pigeon is probably against some animal rights convention or other :lol:

But as HfH is one of the best welders I know, you could do a lot worse than listen to his advice....

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I think he loves you Nige......

Shame really.. I enjoyed the replacmeent thread as well...

Nige... I recon you should have said something like "all done in genuinely helpfull sort of way " so no-one takes offense....

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Are you guys pretending to be like ORRP???

Okay yeah the weldings not brilliant... but you cant tell me its the worst...

i will take Nige comments on bord. But surely its better to cut all the carp out and weld in a new plate. than pile a plate on what is already dying.

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Ask Les he knows how to do a damn good job of welding a cross member on in just the wrong place :D .

I know it is too late now as I have seen that you have already cut off your old cross member, but ysually I tack up a jig from the existing (good) chassis to good reference points on the rear cross member before cutting the old one off, if the rear tub was still on the mounting holes accross the back sometimes act as my alignment jig within reason.

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The problem with my bros truck, was that it already had a replacmeent rear cross on it. That had been fitted really badly, although by the comemnts made it sounds like we havent done much better.

We decided it pretty worthless trying to jig it to that position. instead we used the chassis dimensions in the book and tweaked it with the tub in situ.

On the 101 and s2 we jigged the chassis with angle. But then agian, they have proper suspension and the replacemnt was expected.

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Meccano,

I don't know what you are thinking, I can't weld for toffee and I thought your replacement thread was informative AND..... I thought you had done a good job !

If others can do a better job, well done them... Just don't offer your services to them ! :)

Neil

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Hello all,

The pic posted by Hybrid was taken by me and is of my truck. The welding was all done out in the elements (garage too full of old LR bits to use as intended :blink: ), in the cold and mostly under a floodlight in the dark (as you can see from the copy of my photo that has been put up).

The plates were all 3mm thick, and let in with a beveled edge so that the weld would fill and penetrate the joint rather than perch on top of it.

I thought it all went rather well :) neither of us are welders so we never professed to have the prettiest welds. Having said that the welds are easily strong enough. And, although i realise that you probably dont think MOT guys know much about welding or LRs in general, our local chap who passed the vehicle (and is a classic RaRo nut) said that we had done a good job.

I always thought that letting in a plate flush would be better as if you plate over something you put the joint into shear when it is compressed/ extended, rather than the material reacting as if it was a 'normal' unrepaired section.

As my brother said, new member was put on to replace a replacement that had been put on many moons ago rather badly. We do normally jig the chassis by tacking on a couple of bits of angle iron but it was pretty pointless in this case.

To me the main point of all this is that I now have a 90 which is totally solid and not about to fall apart, does not have a chassis full of glass fibre and bodyfiller, and which (hopefully) will keep me rovering for a good many years to come. :)

Thanks to Meccano for all his help with the project, and to Neil for the kind comments.

Goodluck to mrw90 with the replacement.

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