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Warn8274 modifications/upgrades


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6hp XP motor fitted with a gearbox breather added, motor is allowed to breath via a hole drilled in the gearbox housing between the motor and the ali casing.

(pic courtesy of Peter Graves)


Allbright Solenoid pack mounted on a defender inner wing.

Robhybrids set up spec:

HI I have fitted a mountain bike disk brake on mine but as yet havent managed to sort a strong enough solenoid to activate the caliper.

I have also mounted the disk in a different place to stop heat transfer and here the disk spins faster giving a better braking action.

The bracket for the disc also servs a function in preventing the circlip from jumping off.

sorry the pic isnt very clear but you get the idea.


Paul Wightmans version highly modified, spec:

Slightly modified,

Bowmotor 1 24volt

Up rated brake shaft (gigglepin)

Longer drum with 2” dia centre

Oil drain and filler plugs

Disc brake on drum end


Bowmotor 1. Nothing to touch it! Reliable, cool running, powerful – no exaggeration of HP, easily obtainable spares and reasonable priced.

Up rated brake shaft. When an 8274 is up rated the brake shaft is the weak link, the groove where the retaining plate locates is prone to breaking. The new shaft has no groove and is located by a different method. Unreasonably priced but there is no other option! (Sorry Jim)

Oil drain and filler plugs. With changing the oil being such a pain normally no one bothers, I can change the oil with ease!

Drum mods. Smaller dia drum means higher pulling power (about 20%) but with a reduction in speed (which the 8274 can afford). Coupled with the increase in width means I can use 150’ of 11mm Dyneema and still have plenty of room to bunch the rope during side pulls.

Disc brake. This is the main reason I feel I can go back to the 8274 and feel safe lowering down steep slopes. The brake is from a moped, hydraulic, and calculations by others (if it don’t work it’s not my fault!) suggest it should be capable of holding the drum with the full weight if the vehicle on the rope. I look on is as a means of assisting the original brake under extreme conditions and a backup if the standard brake, motor or gear train should fail.





12" wide with 2"dia drum and a fancy bit on the end!



Piggy has a disc handbrake which consists of an Alfa 164 rear calliper which uses the clutch master cylinder (redundant since Piggy went auto) to adjust the pad gap using a shortened clutch pedal. I’ve fitted a tee off the pipe from the master cylinder to the calliper and run this to the winch brake calliper.

If I want to adjust the handbrake the winch brake operates, no problem.

If I want to brake the winch I am lowering down a steep slope so a bit of handbrake won’t hurt!


bracing bar to support XP motors additional weight

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For those with an 8274 that can't easily be removed from the bumper its a good idea to fit filler and drain plugs. Ideally the oil should be changed after every major dunking or every few events. With filler and drain plugs it turns what was a 2 hour job into a 5 minute one. I've used Land Rover wading plugs as they're cheap and easy to source if you loose one. The difficult bit is getting the tap. Its M14 x 1.5 IIRC and costs about £40. I'm happy to lend it to anyone as long as they return it. The filler plug I put here:


I offset it to the right to avoid the gear that sits on the right hand side of the top hosing. This means that there is no chance of gear damage when drilling and it means you can get the taper tap a long way inside the case giving a good thread.

The drain plug is a little harder to do. I put mine here:


as its on the lowest part of the case and means the oil doesn't flow straight down when draining (and in the process covering you ;) ), Because of the lower gear you have to cut the thread straight off with a plug tap which isn't ideal. This means you have to be very carefull not to cut a drunken thread or to strip the casing.

Because the case is alloy and not terribly thick its a good idea not to overtighten the plugs and use PTFE tape on the threads to help sealing.

I hope that's useful

Will Warne

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this is just my take on a motor support, i didn't like the idea of supporting the motor from another part of the vehicle in case the bumper takes a shunt and shifts causing the support to put stress on the motor so i supported it from the cross brace on the back of the drum

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From Bush65

I have some pics showing the free spooling drum modifications on a


mount winch (which I bought).

Pics 1 and 2 show the assembled winch.



Pic 3 shows the driveshaft for the drum. The hub on the left was

removed from the original drum. The driveshaft is connected to the hub by a

press fit and dowel.

The journal to the right of the hub runs inside a bronze bush inside

the modified drum.

The sliding dog clutch can be seen on the other end of the


The journal to the right of the dog clutch runs inside a bronze bush

in a new hub for the end housing.


Pic 4 shows the drive shaft assembled with the gearbox. A spring

holds the dog clutch in the engaged position.


Pic 5 shows the dog clutch in the freespool position (spring removed for pic).


Pics 6 and 7 show the coupling for the pneumatic actuator. The

coupling runs inside the driveshaft and is pinned to the dog clutch.



Pic 8 of the drive side of the modified drum shows the bronze bush

and internal spline that the dog clutch engages with. The drum has a new

heavy wall spool. The splined part is a shrink fit inside the spool.

The other end of the drum runs in the standard plastic bearing in the winch

end housing.


Pic 9 shows the left hand hub and the coupling on the end of the

pneumatic actuator. The hub bolts to the winch end end housing and

protrudes inside the end of the drum. The bronze bush supports the free

end of the driveshaft. The pneumatic actuator is mounted to the farside

of the hub (see pic 1).




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Heres some info for you and prices

Twin motor set upI can tell you that i do this on an exchange basis Eg: you send me the top housing for your winch.

We supply the housing ready to fit, fitted with two motors either 12 or 24 volt (I would recommend 24)

Price £550 +vat

If you wish to use your own motors then this is not a problem and i can adjust the price accordingly.

I should also tell you that you should fit our uprated mainshaft (other wise your going to bust yours!) and this cures 5 problems within the winch.

Price £225with cam gear or £175 if you supply cam gear for remachining

The kit also comes with instructions two shims, a circlip and of course a new shaft.

We aslo do uprated brake shoes £20 a pair

And also do lengthened and narrower diameter drums in any size from £160

to compliment this we do lenghtened fairleads from £90

We aslo do the consumables like 24volt alternater 55amp @£150

And of course Albrights at £70

Call Jim

If you want to order/discuss on 01732-463600

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