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EFI will not fire up. Help needed


Happe
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Hi guys,

Sorry, I have posted this in different Forums, as I'm a bit desperate.

Hi,

After I decided to convert the Range Rover into a Tomcat like Vehicle ;-)

I started to remove the interior to clear everything to be able to remove the complete body or better to cut the body to small chunks and remove it.

Because of the lack of space in my Workshop I have to keep the engine in working order to drive the chassis in and out.

So I started to remove the wiring harness bit by bit.

After removing the immobiliser the car was immobilised.... bugger. I actually removed the system while the engine was running and switched it off and restarted the engine after every connector and cable I removed and every cable I put back together after removing the imobilieser. It always started up fine.

Next day I tried to start the car and it wouldn't fire up.

I checked the ignition with my strobe and I have sparks.

Fuel pump is running. Starter is turning the engine. But no start.

ok, so I went on and removed the complete main harness without touching the EFI harness at all.

Than searched the web for an idiot guide to install an EFI system. Found some websites but all very unclear.

Studied the Workshop manual and rewired the EFI to main Harness connection (connector 120) and also run a cable (12V+) to the coil. Remember all other EFI cables in the engine bay are untouched and still in place.

So the situation is now that everything regarding the EFI is connected.

It has 12V direct from the battery (brown / N) and 12V from the ignition (W)

the B/O cable is connected to the start inhibit switch, the yellow cable is connected to the speed transducer (but not to the speedo) W/P to the inertia switch and further to the fuel pump. ( actually the switch itself is removed and the cable is connected straight thru)

The cables to the heated front screen and the EFI warning lights are not connected, I don't think they are needed at all.

I also wired the start relays in and connected it to ignition and starter solenoid.

If I turn the key to position 2 the fuel pump is running and if I turn to 3 the starter turns the engine.

If I test with the strobe on the main lead between dizzy and coil it flashes, so sparks are there.

But still no firing up.

What do I miss? :oops:

As said the EFI harness as such was not touched.

Any idea?

cheers

Stefan

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Yes, the cable is there, it runs thru the engine side of the EFI harness and was therefore not touched at all.

It fired up this weekend.

But it will not fire immediatly. It will take a few attempts.

So something is not 100% alright.

But that has to wait.

I now know that I have all the wiring I need to run the engine.

Thanks for your help.

Will have to sort out the whole chassis, Axle and Suspension business first. Than build the framework and bodywork, than concentrate on refurbishing the wiring. Any potential fault will be found in that stage.

cheers

Stefan

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i Had the same type of problem on 2 different rovers

i 1of the relay under the drivers seat was having a bad day

ii theres an black wire with a white band on it within the engine bay which is an earth i hadn't noticed that it was not making a good connection

took me 2 days to sort it out

hope this helps

jon

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Could be the wire from the starter (which tells ECU to enrich mixture on cranking) is disconnected, also check no vacuum lines (brake servo etc) are unplugged

That's a white/red wire for info but mine ran fine without it for the whole 2 weeks it was on flapper :rolleyes:

You could do well to search for other posts on flapper problems as it's a common topic and has been covered extensively in the past, I think Nige even posted up a huge PDF of fault-finding guides.

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Could be the wire from the starter (which tells ECU to enrich mixture on cranking) is disconnected, also check no vacuum lines (brake servo etc) are unplugged

Thanks for the tip, checked it, was connected fine.

So have to look further.

All vacuum lines are fine.

i Had the same type of problem on 2 different rovers

i 1of the relay under the drivers seat was having a bad day

ii theres an black wire with a white band on it within the engine bay which is an earth i hadn't noticed that it was not making a good connection

took me 2 days to sort it out

relays are all fine

I spottet the cable too, but it doesn't change anything. If connected or not engine won't start on first attempt

That's a white/red wire for info but mine ran fine without it for the whole 2 weeks it was on flapper

You could do well to search for other posts on flapper problems as it's a common topic and has been covered extensively in the past, I think Nige even posted up a huge PDF of fault-finding guides.

No, sorry Chipp was right, it is black with white / greyish rings ;)

And I have a Hotwire ignition, I found out today after a member of the LRO forum gave me some pointers :ph34r:

The feeling I have is that I have to check the fuel pressure. It will fail to fire up if I wait for the fuel pump to switch off after turning the key. If I start when the fuel pump is half way thru the first pump cycle it will start.

But as said, I will have to make the whole fuel system new as I will move the tank.

I will post what I found out.

But the next week the project is on stop. Have to go to Switzerland on the bike tomorrow and than the Billing Show pops up on the calender :D

cheers

Stefan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Stefan, monitor the fuel pressure while trying to start the engine. (Use an oil pressure gauge or similar.)

You will see the pressure rise to 36 psi during the prime pulse of the fuel pump, the pressure will then start to fall. This is caused by the non-return valve in the pump leaking.

As you mention the engine can be started by turning over during the prime pulse.

This occaisionally happens on my Disco and is probably due to it not being in daily use.

jw

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Stefan, monitor the fuel pressure while trying to start the engine. (Use an oil pressure gauge or similar.)

You will see the pressure rise to 36 psi during the prime pulse of the fuel pump, the pressure will then start to fall. This is caused by the non-return valve in the pump leaking.

As you mention the engine can be started by turning over during the prime pulse.

This occaisionally happens on my Disco and is probably due to it not being in daily use.

jw

Hi there,

you might be on the right path here ;)

Another thing I realised this weekend was that one Brainiac that had 'repaired' the fuel lines had used standard fuel hoses to replace the metal fuelpipes.

On one spot the hose starts bulging when the pump is in its initial cycle and as soon as the pump stops the bubble grows back.

So it might be worse. Due to the weak line, the preassure in the lines will not go up to maximum and the fuel return valve seems to leak quite a bit.

Ok the car was standing for nearly three years..... ;)

But anyways the engine has to come out now, one Head gasket is leaking. So the engine will get an overhaul. But next week is Billing so no fiddling in the Workshop....

best regards

Stefan

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