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** MegaSquirting a V8 - "Basics of How to" ... The A-Z Saga


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Easy tiger!

  • Download compressed.gif029v.zip
  • Unzip it (preferably to a folder)
  • With your ECU connected to the PC/laptop and with a power source, double-click "download-firmware-V8.bat" and follow the instructions. (make soure you use the v8 version not just "download-firmware.bat" as the temperature sensor settings will be wrong.
  • You are not upgrading from standard code, so say "no" to that, it should then download the firmware to the ECU.
  • You'll need to put your settings back in with MegaTune afterwards, so save them before you start!

For those starting with a standard MS board (I.E not running ignition, just the stock firmware), you say "Yes" to "Upgrading from standard", you must then take the lid off the ECU and short the BOOT jumper/pins next to the CPU and switch it on before you can download the firmware. The upgraded firmware can be re-uploaded without touching the BOOT jumper.

Thanks for that FF, you are a super star... I will get to it this week.. hopefully... the 3.5 is out of the car and the 3.9 has a new clutch, core plugs, 2nd alternator is on, the rad is being re-cored and should be done for Thurs. Tomorrow i hope to have the later steering box and pipes fitted, HP fuel line run across the bulk head to the O/Side so its a nice neat fit to the fuel rail, fuel pump mounted and plummed in and go for engine re-entry on Thurs... hopefully... :rolleyes:

Jeff

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Steve,

Yes you could use a commercial MAF, however, you would need to know the resistance curve of the thermistor in order that you can then programme the S19 file for the megasquirt correctly.

We use commercial IAT’s that are of known values. Use a unipart (or fuel parts)AT1010 (OEM includes Volvo various & Saab turbo). Thread is standard sensor (M14 x1.5 – Metric fine)

The curve for this is already known and we have the right S19 files (temperature corrected for the Rover CLT and the AT1010 IAT).

The fuelling algorithm is such that it takes into account the significance of the IAT………… the higher the IAT then the leaner the mixture. A big problem you may have is heat soak of the IAT when slow moving (ie Challenge event stylee). I (and a few others) have over come this by programming IAT correction relative to enrichment % and RPM into the megasquirt advanced settings. This is done by allowing the IAT to get really high from heatsoak (40 - 60C) and then progamming the fuel corrections against the correct AFR as seen by a wide band Lambda - my corrections start at 30C from idle to 3000 rpm. Heat soak quickly clears once a bit of airflow is created by forward movement (even at off road speeds)

:)

Ian

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Yes - mainly that you don't need the rest of the MAF sensor in the first place :P

Ah, See there was me thinking the system used a MAF sensor, But now I think about it some more there was talk of "T"ing into a Vac pipe so I assume there's a MAP sensor built into the ECU. Similar to the rover/GEMS systems???

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Ah, See there was me thinking the system used a MAF sensor, But now I think about it some more there was talk of "T"ing into a Vac pipe so I assume there's a MAP sensor built into the ECU. Similar to the rover/GEMS systems???

Yes indeed - there is a 2.5 bar MAP sensor built into the MS ECU (although it can use a MAF sensor as an option). You do not need an airflow meter.

The ECU usually runs Speed/Density calculations but it can also run Alpha-N based on RPM and throttle opening, although that's only really useful either as a limp-home mode or for specialist applications.

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Had a good search but not found any help on the CTS.

Can I use an existing CTS in the 3.5 or do I need to fit something else?

If something else, then what do I need to fit and will it fit to an existing location like the original CTS or in place of the thermotime switch?

Steve

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Just to confirm def NOT

:)

Nige

Thanks Nige, going for possible launch tomorrow afternoon... if my soldering is up to the job and my general wiring and if I've remembered to do everything... :D If i remember i will put the vid cam on and capture the moment for everyones enjoyment :ph34r:

Jeff

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Help again... Pin 37 on the MS plug goes to 85 on the fuel pump relay, am i sending volts to 37 or the relay? Also the wiring diagram says to wire 85 on the main relay with 85 on the fuel pump relay together then to 37 on the MS plug.. is this correct? Its the Rover / TVR Lucarse Hotwire Modified for MS ECU diagram from ExtraEFI.

By the way its still not running.. earth issues.. gonna clean them all up tomorrow and see what happens.

Jeff.

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MS grounds pin 37 to switch the relay on, so you need +12v (which is on the white/slate wire at pin 86) supply to the coil.

That diagram assumes you're either using the dizzy or a hall/VR sensor. If you're running EDIS, you're not doing either, so you have EDIS PIP to TACH (pin 24) and EDIS SAW from IGN (pin 36) instead, with the VR sensor wired to the EDIS module, as well as an extra 12v feed to the EDIS which is ignition switched live, and a ground.

As for joining 12 & 16, it does work that way although you don't have to run like that.

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Today at around 4.32pm ish i made a frantic fone call to the MS help line as the bobtail would start but not idle or rev.. HFH to the rescue. 2 calls 2 e-mails and the car runs... ok it wont win a race but it runs. HFH said its the F-in quickest tune up he has ever done but the car runs and boy am i chuffed.

So Nige and Fridge i thank you for your help. party0038.gif

Now we have some work to do. :D

Jeff.

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Jeff,

Your welcome

Yep, a fast MSQ is the understatement :rofl:AND you still were using 029y4 you B*gger :( (that slowed things down), It was never going to run with some of those base settings, ....now the fun starts, ....inc getting the trigger wheel spot on ....oh, and fixing the fuel leak,.... oh and calming down the SWMBO who is already bored with the 'attention' the MS V8 is getting vs her :rofl:

Its an infection I tell yer.......

Good luck and congrats on it running,

I know how it feels, .....give it some time and you'll be stunned,

Er......give it too much time .....and your wife will prob do the post-22-1220043715.gif stunning :rofl:

Nige

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Steve,

As you may well know :P there are a huge variance of pulleys and mounts for the V8 Rover, mine is quite an early one, and had no plate that you mention with welded nuts. Mine was literally a couple of pulleys mated together with pins that locate them to each other and a very odd sort of plate that had a curved and rounded edge to it, and a small mud sheild at the crank end.

I prised off the mud shield, and then the rest was held together with nuts and bolts, I undid these, and machined the curved lip off the plate to leave what was a "Big" washer - this washer allowed the trigger wheel to have a small air gap between the pully and the trigger wheel. As I used 6mm plate trigger wheel :P I used longer bolts dogged it all up and popped the dust ring back on the back. I have seen now several MS V8s often the crank pulleys are different !

HTH

Nige

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Nige,

When you fitted the trigger wheel did you throw away the back plate with the welded nuts? If I try and keep it all and sandwich my trigger wheel in there I run out of room so I think its gona have to go!

post-1274-1220083173_thumb.jpg

Cheers.

Steve.

Steve, i chucked the back plate with welded nuts in the scrap because the trigger wheel uses the space so buy 6 new bolts and robert is your mothers brother.. so to speak.. :D

Jeff.

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UPDATE...

HFHs MS helpline came to the rescue again by pinging me a revised map for my 3.9 on Sunday which i have loaded in to the ECU and boy what a difference!!! :D So the next plan is to try an get a stable tickover. Again the MS helpline saved me a lot of time and pinged some settings for the PWM that i also burned to the ECU. Now i have the 3 legged stool syndrome so its time to sit and fiddle... :moglite: so to speak..

Symptoms:- Takes quite a few cranks to start (slight foot on pedal).

Hunting until it warms and less hunting when warm.

Fans come in, revs drop then go up to about 1100 from 800 then drop back to hunting.

So WUE first then Idle control settings next? :unsure::blink:

Jeff.

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