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** MegaSquirting a V8 - "Basics of How to" ... The A-Z Saga

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Just a comment that I don't currently have either MJ or MS fitted but this thread is fascinating and making my wallet-finger itch :)

AndyG

The you better get a big bottle of Calamine Lotion In then Andy,

'cos there is much more to come yet, ...............

and that ichy wallet finger will be really scratching soon :P

Nige

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Nige - when I come up next we'll have to take a video camera out on a tuning run so others can relive the terror experience :D

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Nige - when I come up next we'll have to take a video camera out on a tuning run so others can relive the terror experience :D

I am eagerly awaiting this :D

can we see the bhp and torque gauges for the full effect :ph34r::lol:

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I am eagerly awaiting this :D

can we see the bhp and torque gauges for the full effect :ph34r::lol:

:lol:

Thats a nice idea Fridge :)

Hopefully not as in the other night when neighbour and 4x4 enthusiast mate of mine came out to hold the laptop and help, at 3600 RPM in second gear we were peering at the laptop KPa guage..............

Looked up to see as milk float had pulled out in front of us.....

Overook it, Nigel (mate) reckoned the rpm and vibes would have turned the milk to cream :)

Nige

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Following on from Ians post re "UnHit" Bins, heres a print out of my latest VE (Fuel) MAP and I have drawn around those "Bins" or "Buckets" that even with help, and an Hours Datalogging I can't get 2into"

these are unchanged from my ORIGINAL overfuelling MAP.

post-22-1186821975_thumb.jpg

As you can see there are some :

LHS Bottom, ie 600 rpm up to 3000 RPM and a Map from 15-50 KPA, bear in mind a "HotCam" makes the KPA higher / more unstable at lower RPMs, my tickover cell is 60KPA and 1000 RPM :)

These cells above are very tricky to get into, BUT, you can't assume that as the engine doesn't go in there they are safe to leve, as the ECU uses not just the cell its in for data but those below next to above etc, thus if these bins are left - in this case vvv rich, it can affect the cells near them that the ecu is using :)

Therefore I have tweaked them down as follows :

post-22-1186822212_thumb.jpg

This wat when I next data log if the cells near the unvisted are gone into when the software samples those below next to etc the compounded reading should be more accurate.

I have left the 5400-5800+ RPM as is, they don't look to far out as the ones above 5800 50 / 40 KPA have been visted by the software, similarly 100 KPA down to 90 and 600 RPM don't look wildly daft, as such I have just tweaked the LHS Quadrant as these where 20%+ richer than the recalculated cells

If you look at the table now, as Ian said you can see that the fuelling is quite lowish (almost similar to his 3.9) but then the bIgger CC and the Cam cioming in around 2500+ RPM sees a big jump in the required fuellings, but hopefully this will help you sort your tables out seeing the logic above in the last few posts ?

Hope this makes sense

Now to finish the loom :)

Nige

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Ok then.

The main idea here is to give the harness some protection both as a harness vs a number of individual wires,

and against passenger / driver kicking harnessetc , pressure washers etc and other 'grief'.

1st I removed the millions of 'Tie Wraps' ................carefully,

Once done I used "Harness Tape" (this is basically like a PVC Tape but without a sticky backing - you can take the tape off again without leaving the contents of a 'old western spitoon' stuck to wires :lol: ).

The best way to use harness tape IMHO is to stick with Superglue, .......wind for say 8-12 inches, ....stick a bit then continue.

After a couple of hours and 3x rolls the harness looked like this :

post-22-1186864376_thumb.jpg

This is harness taped with 2x layers - next was to then add some 'split conduit' and tape up with the same 'harness tape' pulled F V tight - this will give really good protection as this stuff is as hard as nails, all this conduit came off old 3.5 and 3.9 V8 Harnesses so was FOC :) and old but undamaged - must be good :lol:

post-22-1186864376_thumb.jpg post-22-1186864512_thumb.jpg post-22-1186864531_thumb.jpg post-22-1186864558_thumb.jpg

post-22-1186864591_thumb.jpg post-22-1186864621_thumb.jpg

This really does take a stupid amount of time to do, ...........

but well worth it ..........as it makes for a nice HD well protected harness.............

Tomorrow the engine bay is to be finished :)

Nige

post-22-1186864485_thumb.jpg

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That looks very nice and professional .................. A job well done, especially considering your adversity to any thing electrical............ ya'see, its not all smoke and mirrors :lol:

Yes, loom tape is difficult to use unless you are have done lots of it ................ tip ..................... stretch it very slightly as you wind tight on the loom ......... that seems to stop the inevitable unravel from time to time........... ;)

I guess the engine bay will take a little longer if you are going to heat shrink it to the correct form...................

:)

Ian

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Thanks Ian........... nice to have that sort of feedback-

eletcricis is not my cup of tea -

but as a mate says............................

"How Nige do you manage to saw a lump of steel in a straight line ????

..............says it all ...................................each to his own :lol:

This is the output from todays efforts, just "tape n effort"

post-22-1186952014_thumb.jpg

Nice Big impressive and expensive waterproof grommet,....this is already on the loom end and the 37 pin plug on, piccy taken a while back...going into a 'IP67' Box..... with its own O ring :)

post-22-1186951641_thumb.jpg

Nice box - IP67 Waterproof, ...............and a nice O Ring in the lid to box area seals as its done up :)

This - with a bit of machining here asnd there some tapped threads shoved in and a mounting plate made up gives a IP67 (ie underwater) safeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeek - ' box', as the std MS seems very open to water and grief :lol:

As a result of some hours pratting about machining here sees the grommet in the box,

grommet fitted and a bit of fetting .............making the MS box prob about as waterproof as you can get :) .......ish :)

post-22-1186951709_thumb.jpg post-22-1186951974_thumb.jpg

This now means the harness is waterproofed made and taped up and about as bullet proof as I can, its easy to fit eaither 'diagnostic' or 'Laptop check', just plug into the 9 pin, - plenty of space as designed to give space such with the lid "Off"

post-22-1186951910_thumb.jpg

more to follow now, .........

...........but it will be WB tunning :lol::)

may be gone for a while - .....................but I aint finsished yet :lol:

Nige

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For a non-electrician :wacko: you've done a impressive job :i-m_so_happy:

want to come & tidy up my battery bay for me ?

[think I know the answer :lol:]

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Quick Extra bit of info

So far all the ignitions MAPs have been for "Hairy" tunned V8s in one form or another -

Not overly helpfull if you just want to do a Std V8.

post-22-1187108671_thumb.jpg

Here is the Megajolt File from Jon Whites V8,

a Std Carb 3.5, and with this MAP and Megajolt

it started ticked over and revvvvvvvvvvvved like a little sowing machine :)

Whilst MegaJolt - so 10x10 table, it wouldn't be to hard to stretch up to MegaSquirt to 12x12.

Ta for JW for this for the thread

Nige

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Adding to the posts about ignition maps ……………. Its very easy to construct a map from the manufacturers data ………… that way you will be safe and then it can be modified to suit your needs………… ;)

Classic RR 3.5 EFI

Static timing = TDC

Centrifugal check,

3 to 8 degrees @1200rpm

18 to 22 degrees @ 2200

22 to 28 degrees @3200

These numbers assume minus static (i.e 28 + 0 = 28)

Classic RR 3.9 EFI

Static timing = 6 degrees BTDC

2 to 6 degrees @1200rpm

17 to 21 degrees @ 2800rpm

16 to 22 degrees @ 4600rpm

These numbers assume minus static (i.e 22 + 6 = 28)

IIRC the vacuum unit on the lucas dizzy’s was 10 degrees ………. So it safe to assume a total of 10 degrees max vacuum advance (giving 28 degrees on WOT and 38 degrees on a closed throttle @ rpms above 3200 ish

Although a mechanical curve is far from linear, it can be assumed to be linear ………

Vacuum advance helps engine efficiency ……….. at light throttle openings (cruising) the fuel / air is less in the cylinder so therefore the effective CR is less ………. That means the induction gas burns slower so you have to light the pot sooner ………. Hope this all makes sense.

:)

Ian

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Minor Update

Have also fitted one of these :

Nice simple clear see through Filter, this is fitted on the return pipe just pre entering the tank.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/Pro...pcode=FSEPRO896

I do have a High Pressure RR 'canister' fuel filter on the HP line to the engine from the tank, basically this will do no harm in having a seperate additional filter, but - it is also very usefull to check that with ignition on or trying to run engine I have flow of fuel, ie no flow = FP error :( so mainly fitted for the visual / diagnostic benefit :lol:

post-22-1187630589_thumb.jpg

Yes its 'High pressure' in, ....but after the PRV the 6mm fuel pipe return to tank with no restrictions in place mean is Low Pressure :)

Cheap as chips too :)

Also have made a tweak to the engine breather. There is on V8s a breather at the back of the Passenger Rocker cover, this is a small mushroom shaped filter with a foam filter, and the engine can breathe through this, and also water could easily find its way in :(, so drill and tap and screw in a BSP air fitting, then shoved in clear 6mm OD tubing, I was delighted to then find that the tube fitted into the ID of the mushroom filter housing, but the actual hole for Breathing is smaller than the ID of the tube, so with a bit of Heatshrink glue lined stuff the whole tube to filter was joined up.

post-22-1187630626_thumb.jpg post-22-1187630657_thumb.jpg

The line goes through the bulkhead under the dash and is secured under the ashtray unit high up under the top of the dashboard, .......if that get under water I am in 'serious trouble' by then anyway - filter can be changed by removal of ciggy tray unit :)

Plenum to Airbox unit is being powder coated before it turns into a 'Part Stainless part steel part rusty mess' :lol:....Wide Band tuning soon :)

Will also get to test and try out all of the MS Mods to date on 9th September at HBRO Drive Round Day at Hogmoor nr Bordon Hampshire - so fingers crossed :)

Nige

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Moved a tad more to completeness :)

The dizzy.

Rog (Istruggle2gate11) kindly did me one from his batch run, ......and it dropped through my letter box :)

Basically people would be suprised just how many holes a V8 Dizzy has in the base of it, and as its not used for anything now other than the Oil Pump, the "BBC D*ldo Mod" is a good way to get rid of that area....

However it needed a top / cover to keep the water out, so with a lump of ali, some turning (actually a LOT of turning :lol:) on the lathe and a trip to a mate whos an engineer to finish it of "Bling n Tarty :P" here it is.

post-22-1187800945_thumb.jpg post-22-1187800961_thumb.jpg

Test fit............. clears the timing cover :)

Hopefully, it will keep the water out, and unsrewing the cap (metric super F fine :lol:) exposes the O ring and allows the unit to be take apart etc should the need arise

post-22-1187801086_thumb.jpg

More to come Ta Rog :)

Nige

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Erm :rolleyes: ...just possibly a tad "rich" ?

Coming from the Man with the BMW Black Chromed Multi coat sprayed Rocker Covers :P

"Takes one to know one ?"

Nige

PS 4 or 5 spoke spinners ?

:lol:

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Nige - Do you mean someone (Rog?) did a batch of dizzies?

How would one obtain one of these - kind thoughts, beer tokens, eternal gratitude, kudos.... ;)

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Nige - Do you mean someone (Rog?) did a batch of dizzies?

How would one obtain one of these - kind thoughts, beer tokens, eternal gratitude, kudos.... ;)

I found begging and starnge pleading noises did it for me.

Serioulsy he was doing a batch and I manage to (beg and plead) for an extra addition to the batch, I think he's finished them now so you'll have to beg harder :lol:

Nige

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I found begging and starnge pleading noises did it for me.

Serioulsy he was doing a batch and I manage to (beg and plead) for an extra addition to the batch, I think he's finished them now so you'll have to beg harder :lol:

Nige

Ahh no problem. I could actually do it myself, but since i'm out in switzerland, finding the dizzy is the problem. I've been tracking them on ebay but they usually go for silly money.

If anyone has a knackered but mechanically sound one sitting about pls let me know.

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Say, Nigel ...

what kind of capacitors did you use for radio suppression of the EDIS-coils ?

And .. where did you put them ?

Thanks!

Hendrik

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Say, Nigel ...

what kind of capacitors did you use for radio suppression of the EDIS-coils ?

And .. where did you put them ?

Thanks!

Hendrik

Erm Special LR part number RTC0000 :)

ie none, ..........I didn't !

Can't hear a radio much above the engine and the simex at speed anyway :lol:

Nige

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Ehh??? :lol::lol::blink:

You know what i mean ;)

as long as the gear & bushes are ok, i dont give a toss if none of the whirly/shifty/sparky bits work.

Say, Nigel ...

what kind of capacitors did you use for radio suppression of the EDIS-coils ?

And .. where did you put them ?

Generally you can use the originals that come with the donor loom/connectors. 25uF normally.

They need to go from the 12v feed to ground, close to the coil.

Nige, i would fit them if i were you - It's not just for a quiet radio. The electrical noise can interfere with other things, such as the EDIS itself or the Megasquirt. This can manifest as random resets or noise on sensors causing tuning problems.

p.s. Still think my idea of driving a coffee grinder from the dizzy stump is the best :ph34r:

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I don't run capacitors and haven't had any resets. Only problem, fixed over the weekend, was a bent contact on one of the coil packs causing it to drop to V6 operation occasionally :huh:

I have a pair of Ford ones here if anyone wants them for the P&P?

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I don't run capacitors and haven't had any resets.

Sensitivity will depend on how the whole thing is wired & cables routed. But for the sake of some very cheap componets, why leave it open to chance.

There are very many 'My MS keeps resetting, My sensors have noise spikes...' type threads on the MS forums.

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why leave it open to chance.

I've run mine in a variety of conditions for about 6000 miles now and it hasn't missed a beat - why add complexity?

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