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How to replace the throttle spindle seal on a Tdi Injection pump


simonb
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This method is applicable to 200 and 300Tdi pumps and is also suitable for most Bosch NA and Turbo pumps fitted to Citroen/Peugeot diesel engines. The right up here was done on a 1995 300Tdi Defender, without EGR valve.

Before you start it is vital that the outside of the pump is spotlessly clean, so get that jet wash out. Pic below shows the problem, leaks of diesel from throttle shaft.

post-237-1182688623_thumb.jpg

The Bosch part number of the pump is on the opposite face to the red arrow. Its etched in but will be covered in dirt so clean up with a scouring pad. On a 300Tdi Disco/Defender no EGR, its 0460 414 098. 200Tdis will be different but it will start 0460.

Once cleaned up, mark position of throttle lever and spindle. There is a groove cut across the end of the spindle. Also mark position of groove relative to body of pump. Remove from shaft by undoing nut marked with green arrow. Remove return spring and plastic spacers. DO NOT undo any other nuts on the lever. Remove split pin from pin holding throttle cable. Remove throttle cable from bracket by squeezing adjuster nut.

To get at the 4 allen bolts that need to be removed to take the cover off, the max speed screw (dark blue arrow)and idle screw need to be turned forward towards the radiator. The max power screw also needs to be removed - light blue arrow.

post-237-1182689118_thumb.jpg

post-237-1182689404_thumb.jpg

post-237-1182689190_thumb.jpg

Before you touch these, mark their position with paint or use vernier calipers and mark the protusion of each screw. On a 300Tdi remove the tamperproof covers over the lock nuts. On a 200Tdi, remove the lockwire and lead seals. Then remove the maxpower screw entirely, wind the idle stop and max speed stop screws forward to clear the rear allen bolts. A screw driver through the throttle cable bracket can be used to screw forward the max speed screw. Also remove the fuel return and boost connections - yellow arrows.

Remove the four allen bolts holding on the top cover, be prepared for a diesel spillage.

Gently push the throttle spindle through the cover as you remove the cover.

You should now be looking at this...

post-237-1182689699_thumb.jpg

The max power screw presses against the lever with the purple arrow, the screw has to be removed or the cover wont go back on. The end of the throttle spindle is marked A. To remove it from the lever marked with an orange arrow, gently rotate the whole mechanism 90 degrees and it will disengage. The cylinder with the gear teeth is the centrifugal governer. VERY carefully cover the pump with a clean plastic bag. Make sure no dirt falls in otherwise the pump will be ruined or you will block an injector.

This is what the shaft and the brass bush looked like on mine, no wonder it leaked!

post-237-1182690002_thumb.jpg

The bush can be knocked out with a suitable drift, I gently warmed the cover first before knocking it through. Do not attempt to dismantle the shaft further.

I got the replacement parts from Panda Fuel Injection at Wallington, Fareham, Hants. I took the cover and shaft in. They will need the Bosch part number of the injection pump. They replaced the bush - new one is steel, supplied a new shaft and transferred the springs over and also supplied a new gasket for the top cover. Total price £20, done whilst i waited - top marks to them!

So for the refit.

Engage new shaft assembly with lever in injector pump by turning through 90 degrees. Make sure small spring and spacer is as in picture of the inside of the pump.

Crank of spindle must be as shown when you feed it through top cover. If its incorrectly positioned it will jam.

post-237-1182690377_thumb.jpg

Cover should drop down with a slight bit of resistance as o ring goes through. If it stops tight - DO NOT force, lift off and try again.

Once down, refit allen bolts.

Refit fuel return and boost banjos.

Refit max power screw with protrusion EXACTLY as before dismantling. Return idle stop and max speed screws to original postion.

Refit throttle return spring to body of pump. By finger, turn throttle spindle so that alignment slot is as the original one. It should neither be at the most clockwise or anticlockwise extremeties. You should get 1/6 to 1/8 of a turn on it.

With a pair of small pliers, carefully pull throttle spring anticlockwise, engage loop on throttle lever and then fit lever to spindle. Ensure lever/spindle and spindle/body marks align. Ensure stop on lever is hard up against idle screw. Refit spindle nut, refit throttle cable.

Make sure electrical connection to stop solenoid is removed. Crank engine on starter until oil warning light goes out.

Refit stop solenoid connection.

CAUTION: Start engine but be prepared to immediately kill ignition if once engine fires it starts to rev up and runs away.

If all is correct engine will fire and idle.

If it fires but then immediately dies you have got the throttle spindle too far clockwise when you refitted the levers.

If engine runs away, spindle is too far anticlockwise. Adjust and try again.

DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS OF MAX POWER, IDLE OR MAX SPEED SCREWS.

If you cannot get a normal idle you have refitted somrthing incorrectly.

Can the moderators link to tech forum please?

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I object it is requirements creep! I dragged Simon off the M27 2 weeks ago with a blown head gasket, he is getting distracted from the original job :)

To quote Simon about the other 3 or 4 defenders that went past him just before J11 towards Southampton, "**** ***** **** ***** ****** didn't stop"

Simon must talk nice to the guys at Panda, or I have Mug written across my forehead, they wanted £300 to fix my leak on the series 3 injection pump, again, o ring gone on spindle.

Steve

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I object it is requirements creep! I dragged Simon off the M27 2 weeks ago with a blown head gasket, he is getting distracted from the original job :)

To quote Simon about the other 3 or 4 defenders that went past him just before J11 towards Southampton, "**** ***** **** ***** ****** didn't stop"

Simon must talk nice to the guys at Panda, or I have Mug written across my forehead, they wanted £300 to fix my leak on the series 3 injection pump, again, o ring gone on spindle.

Steve

Hmm well you did say the job will probably creep, and it was 3 wks on Sat actually! :P

I'd thought I'd call in a favour after I always seem to be towing everyone else around, thank f&&% its all done, and tonight it had its 1st go on the M27 past that fateful spot where it expired...

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  • 1 year later...
This method is applicable to 200 and 300Tdi pumps and is also suitable for most Bosch NA and Turbo pumps fitted to Citroen/Peugeot diesel engines. The right up here was done on a 1995 300Tdi Defender, without EGR valve.

Before you start it is vital that the outside of the pump is spotlessly clean, so get that jet wash out. Pic below shows the problem, leaks of diesel from throttle shaft.

post-237-1182688623_thumb.jpg

The Bosch part number of the pump is on the opposite face to the red arrow. Its etched in but will be covered in dirt so clean up with a scouring pad. On a 300Tdi Disco/Defender no EGR, its 0460 414 098. 200Tdis will be different but it will start 0460.

Once cleaned up, mark position of throttle lever and spindle. There is a groove cut across the end of the spindle. Also mark position of groove relative to body of pump. Remove from shaft by undoing nut marked with green arrow. Remove return spring and plastic spacers. DO NOT undo any other nuts on the lever. Remove split pin from pin holding throttle cable. Remove throttle cable from bracket by squeezing adjuster nut.

To get at the 4 allen bolts that need to be removed to take the cover off, the max speed screw (dark blue arrow)and idle screw need to be turned forward towards the radiator. The max power screw also needs to be removed - light blue arrow.

post-237-1182689118_thumb.jpg

post-237-1182689404_thumb.jpg

post-237-1182689190_thumb.jpg

Before you touch these, mark their position with paint or use vernier calipers and mark the protusion of each screw. On a 300Tdi remove the tamperproof covers over the lock nuts. On a 200Tdi, remove the lockwire and lead seals. Then remove the maxpower screw entirely, wind the idle stop and max speed stop screws forward to clear the rear allen bolts. A screw driver through the throttle cable bracket can be used to screw forward the max speed screw. Also remove the fuel return and boost connections - yellow arrows.

Remove the four allen bolts holding on the top cover, be prepared for a diesel spillage.

Gently push the throttle spindle through the cover as you remove the cover.

You should now be looking at this...

post-237-1182689699_thumb.jpg

The max power screw presses against the lever with the purple arrow, the screw has to be removed or the cover wont go back on. The end of the throttle spindle is marked A. To remove it from the lever marked with an orange arrow, gently rotate the whole mechanism 90 degrees and it will disengage. The cylinder with the gear teeth is the centrifugal governer. VERY carefully cover the pump with a clean plastic bag. Make sure no dirt falls in otherwise the pump will be ruined or you will block an injector.

This is what the shaft and the brass bush looked like on mine, no wonder it leaked!

post-237-1182690002_thumb.jpg

The bush can be knocked out with a suitable drift, I gently warmed the cover first before knocking it through. Do not attempt to dismantle the shaft further.

I got the replacement parts from Panda Fuel Injection at Wallington, Fareham, Hants. I took the cover and shaft in. They will need the Bosch part number of the injection pump. They replaced the bush - new one is steel, supplied a new shaft and transferred the springs over and also supplied a new gasket for the top cover. Total price £20, done whilst i waited - top marks to them!

So for the refit.

Engage new shaft assembly with lever in injector pump by turning through 90 degrees. Make sure small spring and spacer is as in picture of the inside of the pump.

Crank of spindle must be as shown when you feed it through top cover. If its incorrectly positioned it will jam.

post-237-1182690377_thumb.jpg

Cover should drop down with a slight bit of resistance as o ring goes through. If it stops tight - DO NOT force, lift off and try again.

Once down, refit allen bolts.

Refit fuel return and boost banjos.

Refit max power screw with protrusion EXACTLY as before dismantling. Return idle stop and max speed screws to original postion.

Refit throttle return spring to body of pump. By finger, turn throttle spindle so that alignment slot is as the original one. It should neither be at the most clockwise or anticlockwise extremeties. You should get 1/6 to 1/8 of a turn on it.

With a pair of small pliers, carefully pull throttle spring anticlockwise, engage loop on throttle lever and then fit lever to spindle. Ensure lever/spindle and spindle/body marks align. Ensure stop on lever is hard up against idle screw. Refit spindle nut, refit throttle cable.

Make sure electrical connection to stop solenoid is removed. Crank engine on starter until oil warning light goes out.

Refit stop solenoid connection.

CAUTION: Start engine but be prepared to immediately kill ignition if once engine fires it starts to rev up and runs away.

If all is correct engine will fire and idle.

If it fires but then immediately dies you have got the throttle spindle too far clockwise when you refitted the levers.

If engine runs away, spindle is too far anticlockwise. Adjust and try again.

DO NOT CHANGE SETTINGS OF MAX POWER, IDLE OR MAX SPEED SCREWS.

If you cannot get a normal idle you have refitted somrthing incorrectly.

Can the moderators link to tech forum please?

Brilliant write up, my Discovery had exactly this problem of the throttle spindle seal leaking, without instructions would have been totally lost. Took the throttle spindle housing into my local Bosch dealer Diesco of Ipswich and they were extremely helpful and had all the parts in stock, they did show a little surprise that I had taken it to bits and said they didn’t recommend it, they also gave me the impression that they did not think I would be able to get it running properly again. Any way glad to report that following instructions to the letter it started straight away after priming it with the cut of wire detached and it runs a dream with no diesel leaks and no need of any further adjustments, just to make sure of the measurements of the adjusting screws before I dismantled not only did I measure them with venire gauge but backed this up by taking close up photos of them which enabled me to count the number of threads protruding. The part numbers I was supplied were Spindle bush 1460324333 spindle O ring 1460210008 Throttle cover gasket 1461015302 all purchased for the sum of £10.14. Thanks so much for taking the time to write such a good article.

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Glad to be have been of help. You have also provided the Bosch part numbers for a Discovery - although I doubt if they are actually different to the Defender ones. Someone else on here was asking for those part numbers a few wks back as they could not get the pump part number.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi folks - easily one of the best technical write up's i've seen.

I have this issue - on a Peugeot though... so this article has become a kudos article in my fave tabs.

Going on from this, does anyone have a link where I can put in the Bosch pump number to obtain the correct parts required for this task?

Rick.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...

Again, another vote of thanks!

Just for those viewing this later on, some part numbers for a Defender 300tdi engine -

* Brass Bush - BOSCH 1460324333

* Injector pump repair kit (has cover gasket, spindle shaft o-ring, and a HEAPS of other o-rings and seals) - BOSCH 1467010467

Total cost for both = $41 AUD

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  • 2 months later...
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  • 3 months later...

Simonb

Thanks for the post. This is a job pending for when I get home from overseas where I am currently working. As I pulled the Defender into the garage the evening before I had to fly overseas, I smelt the diesel and discovered that the spindle shaft was literally dribbling diesel. There was no prior warning or slight seepage, it just decided it had had enough! I live in a small village 100km from the nearest Bosch dealers, so driving there is not an option due to the secverity of the diesel leak past the shaft. No decent Indy in the village that I can trust either, I have no option but to take off the cover and shaft and get them in to the dealer for bush replacement and "O" ring, possibly aq new shaft depending on it's condition.

This thread is absolutely invaluable to be. I now know what to do to get it off and what to watch out for. Seven years on and this thread is still providing valuable information!

Well done indeed!

Barry

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Hi Guys

What is the best way to mark the position of the Max Power screw prior to removal? Some have mentioned measuring the distance with a vernier. What about screwing it all the way in and counting the number of turns, does it reach a hard stop or doe it just get stiffer and stiffer as you turn it in with no definate result?

I have this job awaiting me when I return back home for a quick R&R. My 2007 Defender 110 Kalahari Edition 300TDi decided enough was enough and let go of the o-ring seal on the throttle pivot shaft the evening I parked her in the garage prior to flying out overseas the next day. My closest Bosch agent is in the city 100km away and the pump is dribbling too much to drive her through, so it's a no option for me , I have to remove the cover and take it in seperately to the agent.

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  • 8 months later...

Just completed this task, as always what I anticipated as easy was hard and vica versa .

Replacing springs on throttle shaft, easy, caution, the shaft on which the springs are attached does rotate so the flat edge can just slot down onto the pump bracket, am guessing this is not desirable so I corrected it.

Inserting the new shaft, into new bush with new o ring was difficult, I ended up cutting a section of the old bush to place over top of new shaft protruding through casing and using a large washer tightened the nut to pull the shaft though, Attaching the throttle bracket pulled the shaft home.

Finding the right oring in the kit was a gmable two matched but only one is accurate as is slightly thinner, be cautious the £25 odd kit is for 1 oring, you have 1 shot.

Anything i have wrong please correct me, but all is working, running fine and no leaks....happy days,...now for the head gasket.

Once again excellent write up.

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  • 5 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Just a word of warning to those who have EGR pumps (96-98 ish), there are few extra levers inside so it's a more difficult job to get the top cover on and off. I managed to snap a bit as the throttle spindle wouldn't push out. If it doesn't go, then don't push it more, you have to twist the spindle a bit to move the spring assembly away from the lever on the side.

post-18025-0-37413400-1466460994_thumb.jpgpost-18025-0-69233100-1466460996_thumb.jpg

Getting the cover back on is difficult. I had taken the pump off by this point to find the snapped bit and take the opportunity to replace all the seals. I don't know how you could get it back on without damaging anything whilst it's in the vehicle. I needed the pump on it's side to look up to get the governor spring shaft into the main lever. The room to move is so small it's quite hard to get pliers in to twist the flat of the shaft round to lock it in. You also need the fuel solenoid removed to be able to manoeuvre the top cover correctly against the max fuel lever.

post-18025-0-50919200-1466460998_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

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