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Water wetter


Bomag
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Yes but not by much, what it does better is make bringing the temp down quicker - if you get my gist. It makes the cooling system more efficient.

An old mate (sadly no longer with us) of mine who used to work for Marcos reckoned that a 50% mix of coolant would do the same thing...

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It does work - but the amount by which varies from one situation to another.

All it is, is a detergent which breaks down the surface tension. This gives a better chance of a good contact between the water and whatever it is trying to exchange heat with.

You can use any old detergant, so long as it is salt free (that rules out washing up liquid, shampoo and dish-washer liquid). The best option is car shampoo. It only takes a few drips to make it work. I reckon it took about 5 deg off my peak temperature.

Si

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also used to use it when racing.

Also used Neo Keep Cool, which uses a passivater (I'm guessing some sort of organic acid) and water pump lube. Seemed to work really well.

Most Glycol coolants retard heat transfer, glycol isn't as thermally efficient as water and the silicates coat the metal surfaces inhibiting heat transfer. This is where the OAT and HOAT coolants are better as their anti corrosives only come into play where corrosion starts so that the metal surface is kept silicate free. I once read where a chemist said that the heat transfer of OAT coolants was roughly half way between straight water and a conventional silicate/nitrate based glycol coolant.

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The reality is, that if you are looking at buying water wetter to help when you have a land rover engine that is running hotter than it should, I would humbly suggest that something needs looking at/replacing.

If there is an underlying problem, water wetter will be a sticking plaster (which may or may not help) rather than a cure to any overheating problems you may have.

Regards,

Diff

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Yep, its a simple problem, commonlly known as V8/series syndrome.

This is when a V8 is fitted in to a series vehicle and the rad is not moved forward to fit a 90 style front end. Add to that the fact that its a trialler and things start to get very heated!

Its got a 4core rad, electric fan and holes in the bonnet, Im just trying to help the fan out by not making it work so hard.

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I race with it in a 1.8 freelander !

As above it disapates the heat quicker but will not solve a problem if the rad is too small or too old is the rad clean my old lightweight V8 was tempromental but good as gold most of the time.

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Yep, its a simple problem, commonlly known as V8/series syndrome.

This is when a V8 is fitted in to a series vehicle and the rad is not moved forward to fit a 90 style front end. Add to that the fact that its a trialler and things start to get very heated!

Its got a 4core rad, electric fan and holes in the bonnet, Im just trying to help the fan out by not making it work so hard.

Oh maybe I've been lucky but I have V8 Series 1, Series 1 Diesel radiator 1 x Kenlowe 1 peice front end from std body work, no additional holes and have never seen a heat problem?

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I have a V8 in a Series with the rad in the proper place and no problems, admittedly it's a bigger than stock rad but position isn't the issue, it's the efficiency of the rad. Mine is actually based on a Sherpa unit which is wider but not as tall, so it fits full-width but sits above the steering box. I cut all the cowling off the back of the rad panel to allow it to fit as you gain about 6" of space behind the rad, not to mention the width.

post-21-1182947775_thumb.jpg

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Rads new, diesel is the 4core (also known as tropical)

Temps arent a major problem, just trying to help the poor thing out!!

It helps if you've got a smiths heater as that seems to pull loads of heat out, but Ive got rid of mine :rolleyes: Looks like the fan going to have to work for a living :)

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Rads new, diesel is the 4core (also known as tropical)

Temps arent a major problem, just trying to help the poor thing out!!

It helps if you've got a smiths heater as that seems to pull loads of heat out, but Ive got rid of mine :rolleyes: Looks like the fan going to have to work for a living :)

Since your vehicle is a trialler, and you don't use the heater, the cheapest solution is to add more capacity using the heater pipes. If your landrover is a truck cab, just stick a second radiator (any make or type will do) in the rear load bay area. Run some longer heater pipes from the engine bay to the back, weld up a couple of hose adaptors to go from the 3/4 inch heater pipes to the hoses on the radiator. You probably won't even need a fan. If you do, just stick an electric one on it.

If you want to keep the heater option, and/or don't want the extra cooling capacity all the time, just stick a tap in the hose to the rear radiator.

I used to use a Mk 1 ford fiesta radiator mounted in a purpose built cowling with grill on the front of the expedition roofrack in this way to keep a perkins converted landrover cool in the Saharan summer.

Regards,

Diff

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