Highway_Star Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 Anyone replaced the rear body cross member? Mine is in need of doing, it would fail MOT on the body mounts. Thus far I've stripped out the trim, removed the bottom tailgate and the petrol tank. I founf that the fuel tank mounting lip on the rear chassis cross member is gubbed so I'll have to sort that whilst I'm at all this. What's the best plan of attack for the body cross member? I'm thinking both rear wings off, and drill out all the spot welds. It'll also need separating from the floor. Needless to say the floor is in need of remedy too. Do I need to prop the body up whilst the cross member is out? I've done both sills and didn't find propping necessary. All suggestions welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 My mate did his by cutting the new one just inside of the left body mount sliding both parts in and then welding it back together. No need for major striping out then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 A mate of mine did the same, unfortunately I don't have that option as the worst of the tin worm is on the outsides of the mounts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisV8 Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Just replaced the one in daughters RR, cut the floor out both sides and it will slide in, bolted the mounts down adjusted the body up a bit and fixed some angle strips back inside the boot area to the x member and the body, then the same to the outer panels, but you do need the wings off. I have some piccies on here. http://www.lrboards.com/weblog.php?w=11 I am now about to replace most of the boot floor as it's all rotten and I am not doing it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rustyrangie Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Hi, I did mine recently. Removed the old one by cutting it it between the hinge and the side pillar and taking it out in 2 bits. If you've got the rear wings off & tank and floor out it's quite an easy job to do. I made up a tool from square box section and threaded rod to accurately measure width, height and diagonals of the tailgate opening as it's a bit awkward with a tape. Found I didn't really need it as nothing had moved when the crossmember came off and it stayed rigid and square while fitting the new crosmember. One thing I did find was that the replacement cross member wasn't seam welded all along its length and the ends were open. Also it didn't have the locating holes for the hinge helper spring. I welded up the gaps and made up end plates and welded them on. Then finally, a good squirt of waxoil through the number plate wiring hole just in case. :-) Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 I did mine recently. You dont need to remove the fuel tank - I didnt. A spot weld drill is a worthwhile purchase! You need both rear wings off, and i found it was easy enough to get to all the spot welds to remove them with the exception of the ones on top of the crossmember under the wheel arch (attacked witha cold chisel in the end). Getting the rotten old bits out was easy enough, but getting the new one in was a right game! Much jiggling, thumping etc and I ended up jacking the rear body up a bit with a lump of wood under the floor finally saw it all go back in. Also note you have to re-fit the body mount bolts back in the other way up as its impossible to get them in otherwise. Then just re-weld all the old spots and job done. By far the worst bit is getting the new crossmember in. i didnt brace anything at all and mine all lines up fine now its all back together. I got my crossmemebr from Keith Gott's and mine had all the holes I required including those for the helper springs. Cheers Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 All good to know! I've probably made my life easier by replacing the sills first, as the body mounts there wouldn't have held up toffee. Jon W, you're a nutter! Welding beside the petrol tank! I had to take it out as the mounting rail on the rear chassis cross member is most definitely 'corroded to excess' I'm off out to the garage in a bit to take the wings off, offside might be a pain in the proverbial as the LPG filler is mounted on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 Jon W, you're a nutter! Welding beside the petrol tank! I Mines diesel! Besides you're only puddle welding spot welds back in to re-attach the floor to the top of the crossmember so the majority of the spatter is going to be on top of the boot floor anyway. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted June 28, 2007 Share Posted June 28, 2007 The rear fuel tank mounting strip on mine was completely shot, so I removed it altogether & welded a piece of angle iron across the chassis. Two holes drilled in that & the petrol tank is now secure! I did measure the correct height of the tank before removing it & cutting the rot out & fitted the angle iron to the tank (tack welded the iron onto the chassis & then dropped the tank again to seam weld) to ensure it went back into the same position. Above done whilst floor out to replace the offside floor which had got to a delicate lacy doily-like texture The crossmember was in good nick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted June 29, 2007 Author Share Posted June 29, 2007 Paintman that's more or less what I'm planning on doing. I've got to replace the front facing wall of the cross member, the tin worms had it away, but I'm not going to weld a bracket on full width, that's where the trouble started as it's a mud trap. I'm going to weld on 'Vee' shaped brackets to meet the bolt holes in the tank. If yo ulook at a really late RRC or Disco chassis, that's how they are done, I'd imagine to alleviate that rot trap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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