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Snorkel question


honitonhobbit
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I am nearing the end of my little snorkel project and was pondering the following

When water gets in the intake of the snorkel via rain/drizzle/JST, what happens if the flapper bung on the air box is sealed?

Why seal the bung? I have no intention of deep water wading a'la the ruffty tuffty hardassed 4x4 guys and girls. The only reason I have built this snorkel is due to near misses when wading 'lanes and such.

The bung has been sealed for ages though simply because that is the way it was. No worries when the intake was at the back of the engine bay. So back to my ramblings (bit overtired at the moment).

What should I do, unseal or ?

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I would hazard a guess that the volume of water that gets in to the snorkel via rain and drizzle is small enough to vapourise as it moves thorugh the intake system and wont cause hydraulicking issues.

JST interventions however will require a totally different approach..... :lol:

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I go further to say I'd remove the drain altogether and have one tube from snorkel base to airbox.

Mine has bee this way for a couple of years.

never had any water/condensation in the airbox.

The drain is always a weak point if the sealing were to fail.

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i would leave it sealed, i am assuming yours is in the end of the air filter box, same as mine which makes it more of a bugger to seal rather than the separate 300tdi setup where you can removed the drain section from the pipe as Tony mentions.

it may be of interest but in the end i sealed mine with a bit of inner tube held on with cable ties around the external of the drain, after removing the ducks a**e. then added some silicon sealent inside. and to date its worked fine.

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i would leave it sealed, i am assuming yours is in the end of the air filter box, same as mine which makes it more of a bugger to seal rather than the separate 300tdi setup where you can removed the drain section from the pipe as Tony mentions.

it may be of interest but in the end i sealed mine with a bit of inner tube held on with cable ties around the external of the drain, after removing the ducks a**e. then added some silicon sealent inside. and to date its worked fine.

It's on the end that unscrews to refit the filter and at the moment it's blocked with a pipe bung sealed with sicoflex and oversealed with external grade clear silicon - oh and it's pointing upwards...

Dave, pictures will be forthcoming when I take some and it's fully assembled.

Another question:

Option one - periscope type snorkel top - with option to face front or rear

Option two - canted pipe work back over the roof...

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David does yours have the water trap part number 10 in the pic, along with totally sealing item 3 and the airbox (the factory pressings leak to

tech archive has more on this bit)

this is what I removed along with all associated connections.

PS for everyone else if you cover the snorkel and the engine does not stall

that air getting in to keep it running could easily be water.

post-5-1183147311_thumb.jpg

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Tony,

As it is a 200Tdi Disco lump attached to a defender box, it only uses the 300Tdi air box - the pipe work is all unique so the flapper bung I was refering to is part 3 - great diagram by the way.

The intake is now under the outer wing skin top exiting through a plate on the wing top a'la Mantec V8 snorkel style. There isn't room to run it through the wing up by the bulkhead...

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Option one - periscope type snorkel top - with option to face front or rear

Option two - canted pipe work back over the roof...

I went for option one, and facing back because there are lots of very tight greenlanes around here, so wanted to keep as low profile as possible

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