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Clutch won't disengage


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Hi All, after getting the transfer box fixed and having a great day at Devil's Pit offroading yesterday (my first time!) I come to move her this morning and the clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging. There's no obvious fluid leaks, so perhaps an air lock in the system? I'm at a bit of a loss really as everything was working fine last night on the drive home. :(

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Hi All, after getting the transfer box fixed and having a great day at Devil's Pit offroading yesterday (my first time!) I come to move her this morning and the clutch doesn't seem to be disengaging. There's no obvious fluid leaks, so perhaps an air lock in the system? I'm at a bit of a loss really as everything was working fine last night on the drive home. :(

I'd check the fluid level and maybe try bleeding the slave cylinder.......

Worst case scenario........the clutch release arm may have worn thru the pivot ball

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With a bit of luck its the slave....

Do you have a wading bung in the bottom of the bellhouse? If so take it out and see what fluid comes with it. If there is dot 4 coming out then your slave is gone. To be honest it more than likely is. If your master cyclinder and clutch pedal is ok (as in dry on the outside and on the pedal area) then that should point to the slave being knackered.

However worst case is what Landie41 said - bad case - which means gearbox out or engine... NOT FUN.

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With a bit of luck its the slave....

Do you have a wading bung in the bottom of the bellhouse? If so take it out and see what fluid comes with it. If there is dot 4 coming out then your slave is gone. To be honest it more than likely is. If your master cyclinder and clutch pedal is ok (as in dry on the outside and on the pedal area) then that should point to the slave being knackered.

However worst case is what Landie41 said - bad case - which means gearbox out or engine... NOT FUN.

Duh! :) never thought about a leaking slave......... always thinking the worst about Land Rovers i suppose :)

Lets hope for his sake that is all thats wrong :)

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Duh! :) never thought about a leaking slave......... always thinking the worst about Land Rovers i suppose :)

Lets hope for his sake that is all thats wrong :)

Also, if it is the slave lets hope it wasn't put on with instant gasket, because my friends was and when he removed it, it pulled the pin out as well... he was not happy...

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my money is on the pivot ball going through the fork. thats what mine did.

engine out, days work to do it +cost of new clutch and fork. don't forget to get a new pivot ball, mine was quite pitted which would obviously shorten the life of the fork if reused.

good luck...

Will :)

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get a 6 sided size 13 socket (I think thats the size), instead of rounding it will used the edges, that will move it.

if not - -get a smaller socket on it, and bash it on. If that doesn't work then er..... hit it :D and see you can use a punch on it and smack it a few times.. - to be honest it should be that tight, unless it was cross threaded last time...

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No, you either want to get a turbo socket that'll fit (you'll need an air gun, though) or cut a flat in the plug with an angle grinder (use a 1mm disk) and then use an impact driver to free it off. You'll probably find its stuck as the aluminium bell housing's corroded arround the plug.

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Get a blowtorch and apply some heat to it, or if you really only want to see if there's any fluid in it, then drill a small hole nearby and then blank it off with a self-tapping screw afterwards.

Alternatively - remove the slave cylinder (you can do this with the pipework still connected).

You'd be able to tell if it's leaking as the dust seal will be soaking wet. Be careful you don't pull the operating rod out of the clip that holds it to the operating arm.

Les.

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Bit of an update on my day off (at least its stopped raining!). The wading bung wont budge, and now the pedal is very light, feels like no resistance whatsoever except the spring. I haven't had the slave off yet, but the reservoir is empty, is it a fair bet to say it's knackered?

If it is, I assume I can do the job myself getting the required part, refitting the slave and somehow draining the bellhousing? Do i need to replace the clutch at all if it's been covered in fluid?

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It seemed to happen overnight so it hasn't been shaken up at all.. fingers crossed it's not all over the clutch anyway. If the worst comes to the worst should I just drill through the bolt, rethread the hole and put a new one in?

Even if the fluid (mud, water,...) has got onto the clutch its still well worth just fixing that slave cylinder, drill, drain and retap the bellhousing, and just drive it. Changing the clutch is a much bigger job and a bit of fluid will burn off.

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Take the slave out first still. If the innards have come out then it's likely that the ball has worn through the operating arm. If the slave is still complete then replace it and drain the fluid out of the bellhousing by whatever means. Either drill a small hole or do whatevers necessary to remove the wading plug.

As Trevor says - any fluid on the clutch will burn off.

Les. :)

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If the slave is still complete then replace it and drain the fluid out of the bellhousing by whatever means. Either drill a small hole or do whatevers necessary to remove the wading plug.

Les. :)

I like that Les; remove the plug......... "by whatever means" :) :)

Hello out there..............remove the plug !!

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Well after a very long, very dirty afternoon, the new slave is in place. I'll refill the system after work tomorrow, and somehow drain the system. Probably gonna have to drill through the bolt for now.

The old slave certainly looked like it was knackered. Very rusty end covered in fluid of some description.

Tune in tomorrow for another exciting installment of "Tales of a tatty Landy".. :D;)

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As promised.. ;)

Filled the clutch system today, no pressure on the pedal.. weird. Take the cylinder off, it moves when you push the pedal so all ok there...

*n00bie moment*

..perhaps the pushrod connecting to the release fork is not supposed to just move in and out as it pleases. Taken the cylinder back off, and the rod moves in and out when you push/pull it with a slight notch at either end of the movement.. no spring whatsoever. Well, I guess that's a bit knackered then aint it. My thinking is perhaps the slave cylinder has died on me and knackered something else in there at the same time, perhaps the spring, the fork, or maybe even the clutch itself. I guess the only way to know is to take the gearbox out.

Is that a driveway job or am I going to need to send it to a garage to have the engine out as well (as previously mentioned) :o

Cars are awesome. I need to pull the turbo out on my 200sx this week as well as the manifold is coming loose.. d'oh! I swear they're in league. Both fine until something breaks on one and the other sits there thinking "ooh i could screw him over if i was to break now.. mwahhahaha!!"

Gotta keep laughing eh! :lol:

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Is that a driveway job
Depends if your driveway has an engine crane and/or trolley jack(s). Engine out is reckoned to be the easiest way to get at the clutch - I did a gearbox swap last year, and it's not an experience that I'd care to repeat!
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You say you fitted the slave cylinder and filled the system with fluid, but you made no mention of bleeding the air out of the system.

If you haven't bled it properly, it won't work. Make sure it is bled properly before deciding whether to you need to remove engine or gearbox.

You won't be able to exert enough force with your hand pushing on the operating rod to move the clutch. It will be able to move freely in and out a bit anyway.

Hope this helps, regards, Diff

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