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Buying decent hand tools - where?


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After a horrific rattling banging screeching sound coming from the bellhousing of the shiney newsecondhand auto box, I'm suddenly in the market for a tool which can undo the three flat-head screws which hold the round blanking plate on the bottom of the bell housing. A screwdriver and screwdriver + spanner can't shift them (it just 'cams' out) and my impact driver now has a spirally flatblade bit.

I want to buy some decent bits that aren't made from the metal of the monkey, but all I can find is the market-stall tat like this:

33Pc%20Power%20Bit%20Set%20With%20Holder_t.jpg

Any pointers for tools, or alternative methods to remove three cheese-head screws which are stubbornly held in with chemical metal or similar?

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Hi All,

First post here - so bets on i make endless typos,,

I personally recommend Teng tools for all uses - usually by destruction testing method, they aint broken on me yet so have to last.

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If they are glued in with chemical metal or similar it might be easier to just grind the heads off them and then either rotate the plate and drill/tap 3 new holes or just stick it on with some Tiger seal or similar.

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I'll second the vote for Teng, but I have always used stanley dynagrip screwdrivers as they fit my hand really nicely and are decent quality. Halfords professional stuff is also good - they do an adatpter that lets you fit normal driver bits into a 10mm ratchet spanner, which gives you rather a lot of twist for a normal screw head!

If the screws are held in with loctite or threadlock of some description then a bit of heat should soften the adhesive up. Chemical metal is usually epoxy based, which seems a little extreme to hold a screw in place...

Hope that helps

Mark

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A decent heat source (plumbers blowtorch) usualy helps a sh1tload with stubborn bolts as has been said and if you can find a halfrauds their stuff seems pretty good (rachet spanners spring to mind)

Of course snap on do mail order..

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My vote would be for Screwfix. Some of the sets they sell are first class - and as cheap as the market stall ones.

For undoing difficult screws, I use a Halfords 3/8 socket type screwdriver bit - and an impact gun. A bit brutal possibly - but does the trick. The Halfords bits are amazing and even if you do break one - they'll give you another one!

Si

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I'll second the Halfords recommendations - but make sure its the Halfords Professional range, they really do work and you do get a free replacement if you bugger one up by being OTT with it.

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Slightly off topic, but why do you want to remove this plate? IIRC it doesn't give you access to much (apart from allowing the bits of rattling banging screeching metal out :lol:).

Better off taking the half moon plate off the bottom front of the bellhousing (you can get the bigger bits of metal out then!). Also if you do this, you can get to the top of the screws you can't remove and maybe see what is sticking them and/or get some WD40 onto them.

You may have a good reason, but just a thought.

As far as what might have caused the noise - If this happened on first run of your new install, are you sure the torque convertor was seated properly when the box was installed? If not, it may have taken out the gearbox oil pump.

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I want to remove the plate to get access to the torque converter - I don't have a half-moon plate because the (V8) box is bolted up to an adapter plate which is bolted to the manual 300Tdi flywheel housing. Internally, the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel so access is rather limited. Consequently, to make access easier there is a 5" lump of the bottom of the bellhousing which is removable courtesy of stitch-drilling and cutting, held in by two bellhousing bolts, two of the three stuck screws and a pile of chemical metal.

I hope by pulling this off I'll be able to see what's loose and rattling inside. I've done nearly 1000 miles on the box, the rattle has got worse over the last 200 miles to the point that I'm scared to let it tick over. It gets faster in time with the engine up to 1500rpm then fades out; by 2000 rpm under no load it's almost gone. The car still drives fine. Any thoughts? Could that still be the box oil pump? I don't know a lot about the auto innards.

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Sounds a bit like when the flex plate broke on my 200tdi auto disco, the drive plate had split into two concentric discs, rather then the more usual radial failure. But it sound llike you don't have a flex plate.

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My next thought exactly as per ^^^ Mark90^^^. Something connecting engine and box that 'tightens' under load. I guess could still be oil pump if your adaptor kit/setup doesn't have the correct tollerances and has put undue pressure in that direction.

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Another vote for Teng, I have beaten the hell out of my Teng ratchet and it's still going strong. The halfrauds pro stuff is good and the guarantee makes it even better ;) as has been said a ratchet spanner with bit adapter could do the trick.

I have an impact driver from Vehicle Wiring Products of all people (it was cheap) and that has also stood up very well, has screwdriver bits with it and they have been used numerous times.

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Halfords are ok. I broke the 2nd biggest phillips head on my impact driver last week on a bleedin brake pipe bracket. (the simple folded one on the disco rear axle). I'm not impressed but at least they will replace it sans reciept.

Stu.

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Good selection of quality hand tools in the Difflock.com shop. Not the cheapest but some nice kit there. Postage a bit steep on small orders and unfortunately no impact screwdrivers! My grease gun from there though is second to none and gets plenty of use/abuse around the farm!

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bluddy Halfrauds turned down my request for a replacement 8-10mm combi ratchet spanner

saying ratchets are not included in the guarantee

shoddy lot, still I'll try another few outlets before giving up

A good 5 years ago i walked into halfords preston I was literally half way through fixing a digger and all that i could to get to fit the bolt was a stubby ratchet spanner and i broke it on the job took it in no receipt and they swapped it no problems

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