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Wiring up rear worklight


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OK, I must be a sucker but I am also wiring up a rear worklight.

Having done searches it seems (from what I have read) probably OK to use the spare purple live feed at the RH rear box. Others say run fresh feed - if so, presumably from battery?

So I connect from this purple feed (or new one) to terminal 30 of a relay that I presumably fit at the back of the truck near where the light is going to be. I can tuck it in near the rear corner.

Should I add an extra fuse (7.5 amp) into this feed before it goes into the relay? I then connect terminal 87 to the live feed for the light. I then earth the negative feed from the light by presumably running a suitable black cable down to the chassis.

I then presumably need to run two cables back from terminals 85 and 86 on the relay to the dashboard switch in the cab so that when the switch is on the light gets a feed and when it is off there is no feed.

Does this all make sense? Sorry if it is all obvious but before I start mucking about I would prefer to make sure.

Thanks and best wishes

Malcy

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Thanks Ralph

So one side of switch goes to relay and other to earth, so when switch is on there is a straight earth to earth connection across 85 to 86, but when it is off there is no earth. Is that it?

If so (and please forgive if I am being stupid) what is going to power up the indicator light in the switch to let me know that the rear light is on?

Best wishes

Malcy

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to power the switch indicator just use a jumper lead from the power to the light from switch to the warning light terminal on the switch, the other warning light terminal goes to earth, so it should put the warning light on when the worklight is on & warning light off when the worklight is off.

connections on relay [4 pin]

C1 or 87 to accessory/lights

C2 or 30 to in-line fuse power supply

W1 or 85 to on/off switch/warning light

W2 or 86 to earth/ground

using Luke's diagram, just delete 1 of the lights ( remaining one would be your worklight)

relay 30 is your permanent power feed via fuse (7.5amp) to the relay

relay 87 to your light

relay 86 to earth

relay 85 would be your on/off switch/warning light

hope that makes sense

Where's Luke when he's needed, only cos He's better @ electrics than me :D

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Hullo :)

Your switch with warning light should have a circuit diagram moulded into the side of it, this will determine how you should wire it up, though they're normally standard i think. I could dig one out if you'd like a hand.

My diagram should explain what does what, and what its connected to. If it doesn't, just ask and I'll do my best.

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Pretty much, 85 needs +12v on it to close the relay, whether that 12v comes from a switch, or another circuit doesnt really matter.

the warning light will probably be wired to the back of the switch its part of, just for simplicity. some switches are wired this way internally and just need a ground for the light.

A (pedantic) point, a warning light as above will tell you that the switch is on, not that the relay or the worklight itself is working. A powerstation somewhere melted down because the warning light for a relief valve was wired to the switch, not the actual valve, via a sensor etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys

I am almost there and yet still far away - i.e. it doesn't work.

I have the relay wired up but I think my problem is at the switch. It is a Carling on/off with four terminals. Terminals 7 and 8 take a feed from the sidelight circuit and also an earth. Terminal 2 takes the feed in and terminal 3 the feed out. I have wired up the spotlights to another one and it works brilliantly - thanks expressed in another thread.

I have got terminal 2 on the switch linked to terminal 85 on the relay and I had put terminal 3 to earth since there seems nowhere else to put it.

I think this is wrong since it means when the switch is on 85 and 86 are both earthed so there is nothing to open/close the relay and put power to the worklamp.

Do I link terminal 85 off the relay to terminal 3 on the switch and then put a 12v circuit connection onto terminal 2 on the switch - which on re-reading seems to be what LandyManLuke is suggesting. If so is there any circuit I should use for preference?

Thanks

Malcy

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do you have a circuit diagram for the Carling switch?

AFAIK, they're not simple, i believe some/all have a backlight, and an indicator light, as well as the switch itself.

You could test the carling switch, using a multimeter, to find out which pins are which.

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Thanks LandyManLuke

I had previously confirmed the switch terminals with the guys from MUD where I got them. The issue was simply needing to get 12v over the circuit.

Great feeling of satisfaction now I have got them all finally working. Last stage is to finish off fitting the MUD console and having it look a little bit neater!!

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OK

Will need to wait until I have sorted the MUD console for the switches but can get the on/off pictures as it gets a bit darker. You will immediately notice I have an issue with my nearside full beam headlight. I have checked fuses and they are OK and have also checked another new bulb but it doesn't work either so something somewhere has gone phut.

Cannot decide whether to try to work my way through the wiring or to do a headlight wiring upgrade as per mmgemini posting of a while back using two relays and heavier duty wire. I suspect that it may be quicker to rewire unless there is an obvious failure since trying to trace the fault might be awkward.

Better go and put my David Bailey hat on :rolleyes:

Malcy

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Thanks

Was a good project and I learned a lot, thanks in a big way to you and LandyManLuke.

By the end I was almost understanding what I was doing!!!

Next electrical project is to add more internal LED lighting in preparation for winter and then to try and change the timing belt since I don't have any real confidence about when it was last done - hopefully I will get a pleasant surprise. Oh and also the battery clamps!

Best wishes

Malcy

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  • 12 years later...

Hi All

Looking for some help with wiring up some work light / reverse lights onto my 2002(52) Defender TD5 110 CSW.

I've got 2 x good quality LED lights which I am planning to mount high up either side of the rear door to shine down & back and a MUD OEM style dash mounted control switch which I want to use to control it.

Ideally I'd like to have it so that when the switch is depressed then when I select reverse they will come on so that normally the switch is left on and triggered by going into reverse. This will mean I can use as work lights by knocking the transfer box into neutral and also means I won't forget to switch them off when I come out of reverse etc.

Mud have supplied a wiring loom diagram for the switch (attached) but I would have thought pin 86 should be an earth and also not sure where my feed from reverse lights to trigger switch would fit into this? 

Defender_Spotlamp_2_wiring_diagram.jpg

Looking for some advice on how best to tackle this and if anyone has done something similar that has any handy do's or dont's on doing it!

Any and all help/advice would be welcome!

Thanks

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The Bearmach switches that MUD sell, are based on the Land Rover switch YUG000540LNF

This switch switches a relay's coil to earth - they don't make this too clear.

They nicked my diagram for YUG000540LNF for their instructions - here's one I've modified to be specific for rear work lamps that work how you want them to -

Defender-2002-Reversing-Work-Lights.jpg

 

The wire colours shown for - Dash illumination (RO), Reversing lights (GN), Permanent live (PN), and Earth (B) are as found on the vehicle.

.

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  • 1 year later...
On 4/12/2020 at 12:05 AM, Roverdrive said:

I have my work light wired in such a way that it can be selected to come on with the reversing lights via a switch on the dash, or via a switch by the back door, but only when the ignition is off. Stops me leaving it on when driving.

Would love to know some more info on how you wired this

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