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Sealing the airbox?


Mark
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I am starting to fit a raised air intake to the disco, and I was wondering about what people do about the drain valve on the airbox...

It doesn't seem to be the best seal, so leaving it there seems counter to the idea of sealing the system. However, I am sure there must be the odd bit of condensation that needs to get out?

Anyway, the way I see it, I do one of the following:

1) leave the drain as it is, as it seals well enough...

2) remove the rubber valve thing, and blank it off...

3) replace the rubber valve thing with some kind of tap that I can manually drain the airbox..

Any suggestions or ideas?

Cheers

Mark

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Any condensation will be removed by the flow of air through the airbox, just pulled my airbox apart and not a drop of water inside it but lots of leaves, all bone dry aswell

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I used a plastic film canister (35mm film) pushed through the hole after removing the rubber seal. I used silicone sealer to fix it in place and complete the seal. Anything that gets in there tends to drop to the bottom of the cannister and is therefore easily cleaned out.

Philip

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I asked this question a few weeks back as I had finally decided to resort to a snorkel. Rain ingress was my big worry, especially with a periscope snorkel type input doofer

General consensus was that there was no worries.

After a 100odd mile journey in super heavy rain on Saturday (and thanks to the new MK2 intake that lies along the line of the roof and picks up spray nicely) I had about half a pint of water in the air box!

I am rmoving the bung and fitting a flange valve for all but the worst of the wet. To be honest a snorkel is not the most used bit of kit - unless you live in the Gloucester/Cheltenham conurbation.

For all the hassle I have had making this bl**dy snorkel work I honsetly wonder if it is worth it sometimes

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On mine (V8 90) airbox there was a big (1") rubber flappy thuing which seemed sort of closed but had a slit across the base where water could get in, esp I thought if submeregered and the engine sucking away.

It was basically welded up and a small (6mm) ID pipe welded in, to this a length of clear flexible type hose was joined onto it, and then it was allowed to drop down and therough the bulkhead into the cab area, on the end a one way valve was squeezed on

The idea is

- As the tube is clear any water can be seen in it

- Water in the cab is a 2nd givaway

- The one way valve allows water out and none in

I tested it by pouring water into the assembly, seemed to work :)

Nige

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Nige, I'd agree with the hobbit - that is seriously flash. Nice idea, though :D

Mark, I glued the little rubber valve closed and sealed the hole in the airbox with silicone sealant. I also used a smear of petroleum jelly on the join between the 2 halves of the airbox and that worked well for me

Will_Wading.jpg

Rain never caused me any real problems - if it was heavy I turned the top of the snorkel arround however a lot of the water would hit the back of the snorkel top and then drain out through the slits arround the base of the top. I never once found issues of serious water injestion in the airbox.

HTH

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The drain valves tend to deteriorate over time and open up. If yours is like this then either replace it or weld a plate over the hole. I'm using an air box with this type of valve fitted and at present it's fine but I'm not going to take a chance on it.

Les.

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I am using a snorkel top from southdown, so I won't be able to swing it round backwards. It is also pretty low down (for a snorkel...) so as not to get caught on trees and the like, again making rotation difficult. I guess using a forward facing top in heavi rain is going to have a reasonable scoop type effect, so from the sounds of it, the ideal solution is to retain the ability to drain the airbox manually, either by a bit of pipe, or a tap or something...

I am liking the adapter to small pipe, and then a one way valve idea.

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