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TD5 temp sender ?


Mo Murphy

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I posted the final result on the wrong thread last summer, so I've pasted it below to help any other trying to achieve the same thing.

I've got the temperature gauge working ok now, I put resistors to the value of 57 ohms in the wire between the green sender and the gauge and the needle is now central when at normal running temperature. It took plenty of experimentation and good long runs to get there but I did in the end :)

Only one minor problem in that if I turn the lights on the temp needle rises by a mill or so but I think that this is an earthing issue and running the earth directly to the battery should resolve that, I think ...

Steep electrical learning curve !

Mo

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haven't got it yet, my parts man is closed till monday & then it'll go on my account till end of the month :D probably be the same price as you found from microcat. but I want to try it & see if it makes any difference.

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Just to muddy the water, if you look at the TD5 Defender temp gauge, you will find it is made by VDO. (And is extremely expensive, about 3 times the price of a proper VDO gauge). And it doesn't work properly, even if the signal from the ECU is correct to the degree.

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  • 1 month later...

Just to bring this up to date.

on my '89 110CSW ex-TD engine now with a Defender 200Tdi fitted, to make the Td5 temp gauge work, I used the 300Tdi ROW instrumernt loom & the green temp sender AMR1425, I adapted a 200TDi sender PRC8593 in to a threaded boss to accept the AMR1425 & it fits the thermostat housing fine & all connected the Td5 temp gauge reads correctly.

more info in here

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