callum Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6398 following on from the above... mine is similary rubbish, although maybe not quite as rubbish as the one les got. seems crossmember manufactures have no files to round off sharp edges or abrasives to clean up the metal and avoid outrageous weld splatters all over the place. refers to modifications required to the defender variant of the crossmember. my intention is to have a friend seal up lots of the rust traps with plate (although the webbing on a defender crossmember makes it more difficult) and a gas welder. one thing les did was put in crush tubes in order to attach a nato hitch without getting the crossmember squished. mine is similarly untubed, but has some wiggly plate in the cavity at right angles to the crossmember, presumably to prevent crushing. with the addition of some thick spreader plates front and rear is this sufficient to stop it getting crushed or will it need the original reinforcement cut out and replaced with tubing? thanks callum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Might be ok? Got any pics / material thickness etc...? Bit generic/open-ended at the mo. Good luck. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Callum, couldn't agree with you more regarding the new crossmembers. Mine was spattered and v. sharp edges on the bolt plates for the body. Unfortunately it was fitted before I saw it. Anyway, one other strong recommendation is to strip it and repaint/waxoyl. Mine has been on for 6 months and already going rusty on the outside painted bit I haven't waxoyled yet. Probably why they are splattered - welding rusty metal Sorry can't help with the Nato hitch bit. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Callum, couldn't agree with you more regarding the new crossmembers. Mine was spattered and v. sharp edges on the bolt plates for the body. Unfortunately it was fitted before I saw it. Anyway, one other strong recommendation is to strip it and repaint/waxoyl. Mine has been on for 6 months and already going rusty on the outside painted bit I haven't waxoyled yet.Probably why they are splattered - welding rusty metal Sorry can't help with the Nato hitch bit. Good luck. IMHO Callum Tubes and a BIG speader plate cannot be beaten or even gotten close to MUCH Easier to do off the LR, so do it now, as if you fit it and decide later to try to do it then nightmare time nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 thanks for the input folks i'll try and get some images/measurements and maybe even a sketch of what is there, its difficult to describe. a job for tomorrow i suppose the question is, is it better to hold the 2 plates (i think they are 8 or 10mm, came with the car and original nato hitch set up before i put a normal drop plate on) apart with 4 bits of tube or two extruded M shapes of what is probably 2-2.5mm steel. on account of the presence of the plate, there shouldn't be any issue with bolts pulling through, but there could be distortion or a larger lump than a hitch letting go at just the wrong time. slowly sorting out my recovery points, so am trying to do things to a reasonable standard. thanks callum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 Mine has those wiggly plates in but in my opinion they were too far away from the holes to prevent at least some distortion of the crossmember. I added crush tubes as well as two spreader plates just to play it safe. 2 x 8mm spreader plates may well be enough to do what you want. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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