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D90SV project


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Hi,

I have been given the go-ahead from SWMBO for a D90SV rebuild project, and would appreciate any advice regarding 'The Plan' :)

Basically, an errant gentleman rolled a D90SV here (Oman) a couple of years ago. The vehicle was totalled, but I managed to buy the wreck from the main dealers. Td5 and gearbox were sold on, but I salvaged the NAS spec roll-cage (I know - it's not really designed as a roll-cage, but what else do you call it?), the bestop soft top, and all the other trim and paraphenalia that makes a D90 'look' like an SV/NAS spec vehicle. I also have the genuine autobox transmission console from an earlier project. Here's the plan:

Galvanised chassis - I eblagged this, a td5 chassis. It was advertised as new. When it arrived it it was clear the chassis had been previously fitted - ground off brake union connectors, grind marks on the rear x-member to body brackets, and the gearbox x-member had been galvanised into place. Naturally, the miserable git that sold it no longer answers his phone and I'm 4000km away. Anyway, after a detailed check the chassis seems usable, so..... Besides, D90s are gold dust over here, so few options remain.

Galvanised bulkhead - done. I found a brand new bulkhead still in its primer (I'm guessing a V8) in the scrappys. They weren't sure what it was and took OMR 20 for it (about £30!!! :D ). After galvanising, this warped and buckled a bit as expected. A bit of panel beating and it's sweet, apart from needing to 'ahem' stretch the chassis attachment points out a wee bit to fit the chassis. Judicious use of a hi-lift jack does the job nicely. This isn't quite the bodge that it sounds - we are only talking about 1/2" misalignment, but the bulkhead needs considerable persuasion to open out that 1/2".

Engine / gearbox - I intend to fit a 300tdi and autobox from a 1996 disco. I fitted this combo to my '86 110, tweaked the pump, and was more than satisfied. The engine will be stripped and rebuilt using +20' pistons.

Axles / brakes - Again, these will come off the donor '96 Disco.

Body - this is where I hit my first snag. As I said, D90's are nigh impossible to get hold of here, and they are never broken for parts. I was thinking to get a 110 hardtop rear body, de-rivet the entire assy, modify as required and rebuild using new NAS spec rside panels. Has anyone tried this?

Electrics - Dunno. I have the instrument console and switches from the D90SV, which are immaculate. I can probably salvage looms from the donor Disco and modify everything to suit. I did this with the 110, converting the '86 wiring to take a 300tdi disco instrument console etc, but I suspect that it will not be so easy with this new project. Has anyone tried the Painless Wiring harnesses? Would this be a feasible option? I don't want another cobbled together loom, as the idea is that this truck will be a keeper. Any ideas? I know that I could source some of these parts from eblag, such as a 300tdi instrument console, but by the time I receive them here, it's too late to do anything about dodgy sellers.

That's pretty much the basic idea. Nothing fancy (yet ;) ), just a fairly standard vehicle that I can tweak as required later. I would appreciate any comments from those who have attempted similar, such as what have I missed and what hiccups I can expect, and what 'inexpensive' mods I should perhaps consider during the rebuild....

Any input would be much appreciated. Before the missus changes her mind ;)

Regards,

Mark

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Guest diesel_jim

You see 300Tdi dash looms sometimes on ebay, but you could just use eariler looms (the only real difference between a 300 loom and a 2.5/200Tdi/V8 loom is the moulded plugs... the 300 ones are better, fully sealed, but the earlier bullet type work just as well) if you chanegd the whole dash loom over (and the loom that goes up the chassis to the rear lights and the engine loom) it would be job done.

i suppose shipping would be horrendous to send a 90 rear tub over to Oman?

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Aye, shipping a 90 tub is, I think, a non-starter. Where I am returns are not really an option :) Besides, I picked up a 110 rear tub today, so tomorrow I start de-riveting...

Thanks for the ideas on a loom. I considered looking for complete 300tdi looms, but am wary about buying sight unseen. Seems to be a constant theme doesn't it? Once biten... The idea of a painless harness is increasingly attractive, but I would like to terminate all wiring with proper weatherproof connecters that match the existing LR lights, switches, sensors etc, similar to those used on the td5s, as opposed to a load of spade connectors. These seem to offer a more professional and lasting solution. Do these connections come from a generic supplier?

Does anyone have any thoughts on the order in which the body build up should take place? I need to shorten the 110 tub, so should I fit the bulkhead (no shims) followed by the seat assy and floors, then shorten the 110 tub to fit, or is there a better way? I have all the powertrain components in-hand, so the body work will be my first priority. Once that's all sorted and of to the paint shop, I'll start moving / refurbishing the powertrain.

The more thought I give it, the more questions I have....

Need another vodka.

Mark

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I can offer a service where all items are delivered to me in UK, then tested/assembled boxed/packaged ready for shipping to destination of your choice..

Already done this for a guy in Spain, it works out much cheaper than getting individual items shipped in small boxes.

post-1003-1186686758_thumb.jpg My 90 is not quite a NAS spec, but it looks like it could be a model for your needs.

PM me if your interested in any of the above, and good luck

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I can offer a service where all items are delivered to me in UK, then tested/assembled boxed/packaged ready for shipping to destination of your choice..

Already done this for a guy in Spain, it works out much cheaper than getting individual items shipped in small boxes.

post-1003-1186686758_thumb.jpg My 90 is not quite a NAS spec, but it looks like it could be a model for your needs.

PM me if your interested in any of the above, and good luck

Nice looking motor, Nic - It's very similar to what I'm hoping to end up with....

I might well take you up on your offer later. I doubt very much that I will be able to complete this project without sourcing various small (ish!) items from Blighty, and your offer of service seems an ideal solution. Particularly when my original plan to build a 'standard' 90SV falls foul of the 'must upgrade, must improve' bug. Many thanks. I will PM you as my devious plan crystalises....

Mark

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Guest diesel_jim

Nick-orange90's offer seems like the ideal way to go. i've done it for a few mates on a smaller scale, but TBH i've not got the room here (or the time.. trying to build a 110!)

Does anyone have any thoughts on the order in which the body build up should take place? I need to shorten the 110 tub, so should I fit the bulkhead (no shims) followed by the seat assy and floors, then shorten the 110 tub to fit, or is there a better way? I have all the powertrain components in-hand, so the body work will be my first priority. Once that's all sorted and of to the paint shop, I'll start moving / refurbishing the powertrain.

whenevr i've built up my rovers, i've found it easier to mount the rear tub first, then adjust the bulkhead to fit the doors in. if there isn't enough room to move the bulkhead forward (in case there isn't enough room to fit the doors and the bulkhead is up against the outrigger) you can then put some shims into the rear crossmember mouting tags to push the tub forward a bit, but i've never had them this tight.

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Nick-orange90's offer seems like the ideal way to go. i've done it for a few mates on a smaller scale, but TBH i've not got the room here (or the time.. trying to build a 110!)

whenevr i've built up my rovers, i've found it easier to mount the rear tub first, then adjust the bulkhead to fit the doors in. if there isn't enough room to move the bulkhead forward (in case there isn't enough room to fit the doors and the bulkhead is up against the outrigger) you can then put some shims into the rear crossmember mouting tags to push the tub forward a bit, but i've never had them this tight.

Intuitively, that makes sense to me. The bulkhead can be shimmed as required. My problem is that I don't have a 90 rear tub to measure, so I think I need to work from the bulkhead rearwards, modifying the 110 rear tub to fit. By initially leaving out all shims on the bulkhead I'm hoping that I will have sufficient 'slack' to account for Solihull build tolerances... Should I perhaps shorten the 110 rear tub to fit with no bulkhead shims but, say 1/4" or 1/8" of shims in the rear crossmember mounting tangs, thereby giving me the ability to move the bulkhead forward or the tub rearwards in order to get a good door fit?

Thanks for giving this some thought...

Mark

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I can offer a service where all items are delivered to me in UK, then tested/assembled boxed/packaged ready for shipping to destination of your choice..

Already done this for a guy in Spain, it works out much cheaper than getting individual items shipped in small boxes.

post-1003-1186686758_thumb.jpg My 90 is not quite a NAS spec, but it looks like it could be a model for your needs.

PM me if your interested in any of the above, and good luck

Nic, I'm sorry, I only just realised the implications of your offer with regard to ensuring that I, for example, was eblagging a good used harness. It's 0030 hrs here and tomorrows a day off - stlichnaya and I have been getting reaquainted which might account for my delayed mental reflexes :rolleyes: That does indeed open up new avenues. I'll be in touch...

Mark

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