rangy Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 hey all. I have a 3.5 v8 rrc and she's not starting, i have check the relays to the ecu, pump is working, as is the coil. it turns over but doesnt kick, any ideas what to check, the king lead has 9 hms of resistance is this normal?? plugs and leads seem okay... heeeeLLLP need it for muddy bottom next weekend.... stacey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted August 11, 2007 Share Posted August 11, 2007 When you say doesn't kick, do you mean tries to start but doesn't, or just turns over with no sign of it firing at all? Check you're getting a spark at the plugs - take a plug out, put it back on its HT lead and rest it on top of the engine (so that it's in decent contact with metal - you need it earthed), then turn the engine over and see if it's sparking. If you've got sparks and it's not firing at all, you've almost certainly got no fuel. Check all the fuses are okay and if they're fine then it's time to find the diagnostic instructions in the tech archive on here and go through them. I take it it's a flapper system? If it's hotwire there's a fuel cutoff switch under the back of the passenger seat, but I don't think flapper has an equivalent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangy Posted August 12, 2007 Author Share Posted August 12, 2007 When you say doesn't kick, do you mean tries to start but doesn't, or just turns over with no sign of it firing at all?Check you're getting a spark at the plugs - take a plug out, put it back on its HT lead and rest it on top of the engine (so that it's in decent contact with metal - you need it earthed), then turn the engine over and see if it's sparking. If you've got sparks and it's not firing at all, you've almost certainly got no fuel. Check all the fuses are okay and if they're fine then it's time to find the diagnostic instructions in the tech archive on here and go through them. I take it it's a flapper system? If it's hotwire there's a fuel cutoff switch under the back of the passenger seat, but I don't think flapper has an equivalent. hey geoff. its turning over but wont start, it has a air flapper vavle in the engine bay i have checked the plugs and they are ok. i will have a look at the tech section. Many thanks. stacey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Just seen this thread. Have you got it sorted yet ? If not then post up the spwec Age of RR Engine type flapper or hotwire system What are the basic items in terms of age of are they 2Unknown" age Dizzy Cap Coil Plugs Plug Leads rotor Arm Also are all of the above genuine items or appetern parts are the plugs NGK BP6 RES ? If you can check fuel pressure, when you have been cranking it to try to start it are the plugs wet ? Post up if not sorted Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Close mate, you meant BPR6ES I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Close mate, you meant BPR6ES I think Yep 'Demsderones ' Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish13 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 I had a nightmare with the starting on my last Rangie 3.5. I had Niall on here helping me out over the phone and everything! We went all over the thing and couldn't find any reason for it not to start. Turns out - when the black cover on top of the flapper AFM was removed, there are two copper contacts that weren't connecting. The engine was getting fuel, spark etc, but was just barely catching then dying. Was incredibly frustrating. By holding these two contacts closer together first by pinching them with fingers and then as a bodge (6 months! ) fix by way of a small cable tie, the engine caught first time again no worries. Never heard of it before or since, but it might be worth a go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Whereabouts are you - if you're going to Muddy Bottom then I'm guessing you're in the Shires area. Someone may be able to come over and help if you get really stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangy Posted August 27, 2007 Author Share Posted August 27, 2007 Whereabouts are you - if you're going to Muddy Bottom then I'm guessing you're in the Shires area. Someone may be able to come over and help if you get really stuck. hey all. its still not working, i have managed to get it to fire on the key only then when i let the key go it dies, i've heard that it might be the ballst resitor wire ???? where is that??, other than that i have'nt got a clue as far as the rangey goes... as soon as i have managed to get it working im am going to sell it any help or visits would be muchly helpfull. im getting miffed to say the least with it. yeah i live in alton at the top end of the A32. rangey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 OK - the ballast thing... The coil runs through a ballast resistor when the engine is running, when you're cranking the starter solenoid has an extra terminal that gives un-ballasted +12v to the coil to give it an extra kick for starting. Beyond that I'm not familiar with where all the bits are as it's a bit old for me Actually, thinking about it, I didn't think any of the EFi ones had a ballast resistor as they are all electronic ignition. I would look at the EFI fault-finding PDF in the tech archive, work through that as it'll probably be quicker than poking away at things. See if it'll kick on easy-start, if the plugs are fouled up after all this cranking it probably won't start even if everything is 100% fine. My RR had the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 On carb lumps, the ballast lead is the white/pink one that goes to the coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rangy Posted August 28, 2007 Author Share Posted August 28, 2007 hey all many thanks for the info will try when i can, hopefully it will help me. rangey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 28, 2007 Share Posted August 28, 2007 Check for the settings for Pin 1 to the ECU, on flapper this is the pin that takes the power that tells the ECU to run, this could be a poor coil, poor connection, as the key when you stop cranking changes the route of the current etc. As fridge says look at the PDF for flapper I shoved in the tech forum. Also have you tested the fuel pressure, and fuel n spark probs can sometimes seem like each others problems ! nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
embee Posted August 29, 2007 Share Posted August 29, 2007 Hi Rangy, just a thought, the fuel pump runs first by the ignition on the crank position then in the run position by the switch on the flap on the AFM. Have you tried the fuel pump by removing the flexible duct between air cleaner and AFM, switch on ignition and pushing the flap, you should here the pump run. As stated in the last post, it would be a good idea to check fuel pressure if poss. Hope this might be of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybehr Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 I´ve heard of a ignition lock to be bad - if allowed to turn back from the starting position as usually practized if cut the connection and would only run if help slightly towards the starting position by hand. Probably easy to check if there´s 12V going to the coil. Not much of help in this topic, as the faulty Range shows a spark. A rare cause could be a faulty capacitor next to the coil, letting current escape before reaching the coil ? Someone should advise him to megasquirt the rig and keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 ok, thought id drag this up, as to save time and forum space my 1988 3.5 EFI wont start, ive got a good spark, and high fuel pressure (when i pull the pipe off the pump it squirts everywhere) And ive removed 4 of the plugs and there all wet. ive cranked and cranked and it just wont go? any ideas. i read that you need the cables on the alternator so the ECU knows the engine is turning, i had removed them to do some welding (trayback ) i think i might have flooded it, then reconnected the wires on my alt then my spark came back, but its already flooded really badly and wont start. hmmm will give it another go in the morning to see. so what should you do when you flood it? im a diesel man really, and have NO IDEA around petrols. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted May 3, 2008 Share Posted May 3, 2008 If you think you've flooded it that badly, just leave the plugs out overnight and the petrol should evaporate... replace the plugs and off you go.... fingers crossed I've had this a few times, particularily when priming the V8 oil pump, by disconnecting the coil lead -BAD idea..... it still chucks fuel in and *IF* you get it to start, it gives you clouds of lovely black smoke to look at -not good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted May 4, 2008 Share Posted May 4, 2008 i took out all of the spark plugs, sandpapered all the carbon off them then graphited them all, i then tested the spark, they were all very strong. then some churning and it fired up on 7 cylinders, then i ran it for a min and the 8th came in fine, its all working good now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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